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Do I really need Oil Catch Can (OCC) in 2012 Prius?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Prius DIY nut, Nov 7, 2023.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I doubt I could reach mine without full panel removal. They're just aft of the front cross-beam, the one that doubles as front/central jacking point, and the engine is aft of that, and the "service opening" roughly aft of the engine. Note, the Toyota Repair Manual makes no mention of that "service opening", say in the oil change section. IIRC it says to remove the full underpanel, plus the panel forward of that (the narrow panel between main engine underpanel and the (painted) front fairing.
     
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  2. MachMarcus

    MachMarcus Junior Member

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    The catch can that I purchased had a ball valve at the bottom with a barbed outlet. I installed a hose onto that barbed outlet and I am able to open the panel door to change the oil and filter along with the hose and turn the ball valve from that access door underneath the vehicle. Just installed it a couple of miles ago, so haven't drained it yet.
     
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    ^ That's a little mangled. What I meant to say (edit window no longer available): for oil changes the repair manual says to remove the engine underpanel plus the one directly in front of it. Removing the latter is absurd; I think the writers say to do that because technically that smaller panel laps over the main engine panel. In reality, it's trivial to just slip the engine underpanel into place, under that other panel.

    upload_2023-11-15_12-6-40.png
    upload_2023-11-15_12-7-29.png
     
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  4. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    A few more pics showing that I moved the PCV valve to the input (labeled out on the OCC), and more detail of the mount. 20231115_094536.jpeg 20231115_094504.jpeg 20231115_094523.jpeg 20231115_094602.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  5. Prius DIY nut

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    That's pretty close to what I am thinking of doing too, thanks for sharing.
     
  6. Prius DIY nut

    Prius DIY nut Member

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    I can tell that this manual is wrong, at least for my 2012 model. To change oil the whole underpanel can stay in place or I missed something here. I only need to undo a few retaining clips on the oil pan drain and filter access panel, which is a part of underpanel and then bend that panel piece towards the front with a bungee cord or something so it is out of the way.
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Well, it's not wrong, it's arguably a little more than necessary. Removing the panel ahead of the engine underpanel, that's serious overkill. Still I'm opposed to just bending down that local-to-the-oil-pan corner of the full engine underpanel, for a couple of reasons:

    1. I did just bend down that corner the first time (following YouTube advice), and found it alarmingly resistant to bending. I've had a similar panel on a previous car, with a "similar" hinge point, but with that one the plastic was thicker/softer material, and at the hinge point it was thinner. It flexed easily. With the Prius, the first (and only) time I tried to bend it, the whole panel was bending, then grudgingly bent a bit more at the "hinge" point.

    Then I started reading, mostly here, about that flap cracking at the hinge point, eventually falling off, people cobbling hinges to reattach it, and so on. I decided I wanted to keep it in one piece, started taking the panel off completely.

    2. When the full panel's off, you've got a much better view, the whole engine bay, checking for leaks, rust zones, whatever.

    See the oil change link in my signature for some tips on removing the panel, preserving it's fasteners, tools to use. (if you're on a phone turn it landscape to see signature.)
     
  8. Prius DIY nut

    Prius DIY nut Member

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    You obviously have much more knowledge and experience on the subject than I do. There is probably not much risk of cracking the plastic hinge in a warm weather/place as opposed to below freezing temps. Taking off the whole panel obviously eliminates such risk and give more than needed access for more areas for inspection. I wonder if a dealer or service shop follow this manual and remove the whole panel, but that could be off topic.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I doubt it; it’s a short cut, they’ll take it. A lot of reports here, owners doing their first oil change after dealership services, the access flap gone, and half the panel fasteners missing, stuff dragging.
     
  10. Prius DIY nut

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    After about 800km of driving in colder temps with new OCC I found that my Intake Manifold(IM) under Throttle Body(TB) got a small amount of same "coffee and milk" emulsion residue as in OCC. The amount of blowby emulsion in IM is comparable to the amount in OCC. I wonder whether it is my OCC kit that is not performing well, or the blow-by(BB) gasses make their way into IM from above, as there is also valve cover vent that is going into IM above TB downstream of MAF sensor location? I am very new with reading here and did not find whether another OCC is being installed on that upper vent hose as well or it would be considered too many of OCCs :), or there is no such thing as too many OCCs and I should keep adding them down (in series) and also above?
    I checked the engine valve cover vent hose above and it is pretty clean and dry and does not have any PCV, so it looks like a direct vent from the valve cover into IM. The fact that is it clean and dry does not mean that BB gases may not enter into IM that way. The engine block PCV hose OTOH was very oily, so I am suspecting that my OCC might not catch (very roughly/maybe) 30% of oil and passes the BB gasses into IM bottom where they continue to reside... I was expecting a little better performance from this OCC...
    Any other hoses or ways the BB gases can get into IM and reside under TB?

    Any thoughts on all the above?
     

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    #30 Prius DIY nut, Nov 18, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2023
  11. Prius DIY nut

    Prius DIY nut Member

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    I just discovered that my OCC kit fittings have exact same M16 thread size as Prius OEM PCV.

    So I decided to do this experiment...

    Installed 1/2" fitting (from OCC kit) at engine block PCV location.
    Ran 4' of 1/2" hose up to OCC input.
    Installed the OEM PCV at OCC output.
    Added transparent 5/16" fuel filter after PCV to see how much of blow-by residue and how quick will be collected there.

    I hope in theory that the bigger diameter and longer 1/2" hose at the OCC input will slow down the blow-by gases and increase condensation before they go up into OCC. Transparent fuel filter should show any residual blow-by that passed through OCC and going into IM.

    Will watch closely. So far engine is running smooth, new OEM PCV on OCC output is clicking and working.
     

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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I’m not sure why everyone swears by the $20 Amazon Oil Catch Can. :confused:

    To be fair, even the high end ones are not gonna catch everything. But they do get more effective.

    I’m running two mid-priced ones in series, does pretty good.
     
  13. Prius DIY nut

    Prius DIY nut Member

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    I frankly have no idea why, just wanted to try one that had many positive reviews and still do not know what are the high end brands and where to buy them, apart from Moroso brand that you have, I saw that sold on Amazon. I did not do a lot of research on this, just went with the one mentioned in the OCC thread here.

    Do you see any potential issue with PVC being relocated at OCC output? I came across some videos and chats discussing this kind of mod.
     
    #33 Prius DIY nut, Nov 18, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I think the PCV valve would still function the same if moved along the path some.

    The Moroso universal air/oil separator used to be more reasonable priced. When I bought it was a bit under $200 CDN, and now they’re over $200 USD. I got a second one because our son asked about it (for a direct injected CX5). Access for install proved too difficult, I had it lying around, thought hey why not.

    I should maybe research some more, see what’s available currently. There’s a video of a Moroso can with clear plastic body; it’s surprising how fast and sudden the air rushes through. Presumably with race level throttle fluctuations. Tricky balancing act, waylaying the oil/water in this mist, without blocking the overall flow.
     
  15. Prius DIY nut

    Prius DIY nut Member

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    I am not a Process Engineer by background, but let's compare logically at what has changed between 1) Conventional setup and 2) The new setup process flow. Underscored items below are the areas where IM vacuum can be present in both scenarios. I hope below explanation is more or less clear.

    1. The conventional OCC setup (Crankcase->PCV->OCC->IM) causes vacuum appear inside OCC and all its hoses. It must be the IM vacuum that makes OCC separating oil/water/exhaust gas job so difficult because all contents inside turn into a vapor and mist when vacuum is applied from IM. This is what we can see in the video with homemade transparent OCC which shows vacuum to happen during normal acceleration, so that must be happening constantly inside OCC. It would be challenging to design a very effective OCC for such conditions.
    2. PCV valve relocated from Crankcase to OCC output (Crankcase->OCC->PCV->IM). I would expect this should change what happens in the input hose and OCC chamber. Logically PCV is now preventing OCC chamber to go into vacuum, i.e. same way as it protects Crankcase from the same IM vacuum. I am expecting that this change should translate into a better condensation of blow-by in hose going up into OCC and inside OCC itself. To repeat, the effects of vacuum on OCC are now at least reduced and this, I assume, was the main idea (not mine) behind this modification.

    Time will tell whether it brings positive results. Downside (or upside?) is I am no longer driving for work these days, WFH now.
    Cheers :)
     
    #35 Prius DIY nut, Nov 19, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Maybe. In scenario two, the OCC is essentially an annex of the crankcase. I got a feel though, regardless of where the PCV valve is in the circuit, it's acting like a very weak baffle, ie: it takes very little effort to open it (allow air to flow through).

    The question in my mind, does it matter if the PCV valve's baffling effect is before or after the OCC; is the flow through the OCC any different? I've got a hunch it's largerly the same. Maybe not exactly the same though, since it's constantly "part of the crankcase".
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Initially manufacturers included PCV systems as a pollution control device. Reducing the pollution gasses generated by the engine is a good way to reduce liquids in the intake.

    The best oil catch “can” (air oil separator) strategy is built into many later model engines and automatically drains liquids back to the crankcase.

    Retrofits with sintered bronze filters do a reasonable job assuming they have adequate volume and don’t get filled up where the pcv system is unable to flow. Any filter media can also clog which is why the simpler units are not installed from the factory.

    The solution I like on a gen3 is to avoid excessive oil burning or repair with revised pistons, rings and oil seals. At that point a factory setup works. Frequent oil changes before damage can be facilitated by a functional access panel. Oil changes and monitoring of engine temperature is a good idea.

    My stainless hinge access panel mod after the original plastic hinge was lost due to reuse of weak pushpins by the dealer.

    Prius undercover w hinge and notes.jpeg

    Hinged Panel Access Screws, Rivet Nuts, Installation Tool from Priuschat Member via eBay
    IMG_3557.jpeg

    Oil Change access door thread
    Oil change door panel replacement | PriusChat
     
    #37 rjparker, Nov 19, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
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  18. V Sport Wagon

    V Sport Wagon Active Member

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    On my rebuilt Gen 4 with new rings the catch can still has .5'' of waste liquid in it even after a couple thousand miles. Upgrading Pistons/Rings to what you think are better, does no good at how much comes out of the PCV back into the intake.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I've yet to see any drop on the dipstick, between (admittedly short) oil changes. And our '10 is only just on the cusp of 100k. Kilometers.

    Back, maybe around 50~60K I took an initial look at the throttle body,, thought what's that shiny black surface down there.
     
  20. Prius DIY nut

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    I feel that short answer is yes, PCV location does matter. I understand (see PCV diagram attached) that PCV acts as a check valve and closes when there is a pressure in IM and becomes a baffle or a throttled valve when there is a vacuum present in IM and therefore the vacuum level in OCC(and evaporation) get reduced in this new configuration. When I installed the valve on OCC output I could hear how it functions: once the engine shuts off PCV first hisses(letting higher pressure air from OCC and crankcase into IM) and then finally clicks(closes). Now I got some very initial, experimental data to report below.

    I have 265,000km on my 2012 Prius odometer. Drove about 350km round trip today with hills, passing, acceleration, stops, mostly highways and some city driving today with 3C ambient temperature in high humidity, in other words good testing conditions for water vapors condensation in OCC circuit. This time I specifically did not want to drive for highest fuel economy as I sometimes try, switched Cruise Control on at times, accelerated to higher speed, etc. My fuel economy for these 5 hours driving round trip showed 4.4l/100km, which is somewhat better than usual 4.6-5.0l/100km range I get, but again this could one off time, shall continue monitoring.
    Engine is running smoothly, all systems appear normal, no trouble codes from my little scanner. After getting back home I could not help but check what happened with the new setup and how much residue I would find in IM. I took the TB off and found a very little, maybe a few drops of milky stuff in IM (see photo with the minimal residue wiped with paper towel) under TB. The transparent fuel filter downstream of PCV also had mostly only some condensation inside and after vigorously shaking I managed to get a few drops out of it. OCC on the other hand had a few grams of milky residue. Will continue to collect the residue into two separate small bottles - 1) from OCC and 2)from post PCV Filter+IM(if I get any) to assess the new configuration OCC efficiency.

    So far the initial collected data is, let's say, somewhat encouraging.


    PCV-Valve-design-and-operation.png PXL_20231120_000439500.jpg PXL_20231120_000409370.jpg PXL_20231120_003317241.jpg
     
    #40 Prius DIY nut, Nov 19, 2023
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
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