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Seemingly counter productive actions in cruise control

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by pasadena_commut, Dec 5, 2023.

  1. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    A couple of weeks ago I put in a new OEM battery and this last week drove from LA to the bay area and back. Almost all of that was using the cruise control, typically set at 72 mph. Never observed the SOC fall below blue at any point during this trip.

    Some strange things happen doing that, especially on hills.

    On downhill slops the car would frequently be pulling current from the pack, rather than charging it up. Not just when the SOC was in the green, also when it was in the blue. The majority of the time it would be charging though.

    On climbs the car would frequently be pushing current into the pack. Again, in both green and blue SOCs.

    For some reason or other after climbing the grapevine (a very steep 8 miles of highway) the pack was never out of the blue, I think it went down to 4 bars at one point, but it took many, many, many miles of downhill travel before it went into the green. In fact I don't think it did until I had to briefly shift into B mode for extra braking. Which is really peculiar because at lower speeds, driving in town down much shorter and less steep grades it will get to green easily.

    The instantaneous MPG displays are all over the place on long straight (but maybe tilted up or down) road. That is, the road in question is like a ruler which can be flat or tilted, but doesn't oscillate up or down noticeably. It is almost like the cruise control is constantly hunting for a setting and goes too far in one direction, then the other, without ever converging on, and sticking with, the optimum setting. For instance, on flat road I have seen it wander around between the mid 30's and 99 where the mean would be something like 47 or 48. No cars nearby, no wind evident in the vegetation near the road, didn't touch the brakes, gas, or cruise control adjustment the whole time.

    Maybe it is too much to ask for, but when presented with a long period of driving along under exactly the same conditions, shouldn't a cruise control eventually settle on the right amount of fuel to just sit stably at the set speed?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I do know this in the four five generation twos that we have sitting around here that are driven pretty much daily The cruise on these things come on pretty hard I've never been a big user of cruise control until the Prius I've had it on Corollas and other Toyotas used it very little The Prius seems to get better gas mileage using the cruise control as much as possible but I will say out on country roads or anywhere but I notice it mostly out on country roads any undulation in the road will bring on cruise control acceleration hard I mean it sounds like the engines running wide open with the very slight change in grade like a dip in the road that's almost enough to jump the car over but it sees the little dip is the car front end starts to go up that little dip the cruisel slam all the way down and the Carl sound like a rocket trying to take off and then it realizes the undulation is long gone in the road and it's flat and the cruise just like turns off It's quite strange but for all the time that it's flooring itself and whatnot The gas mileage doesn't really seem to go down It's kind of weird. Then in another car the crews works flawlessly but it can't resume. So if I step on the break or something like that and break the cruise control cycle at like 65 mph and then seconds later I lift up the resume switch nothing happens The car will not go back to the speed that I just took it off of no matter what I do I just go down and reset the cruise I don't even look to use the resume anymore because it never works it just slows the car down doesn't engage everything else on the car works flawlessly so I'm thinking maybe possibly the clock spring is acting up? But I do notice the cruise is quick to engage in these Prius here.
     
  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    1. What did the wind have to say about this?

    2. If it did "settle" the way you describe, somebody would be complaining about how long it takes the system to notice a change in conditions and begin a fresh hunt for optimum settings.
     
  4. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    There was no wind at all for most of the trip. Not only was there no motion in the vegetation, but at the stops it was calm too. I cannot rule out something so gentle it was essentially imperceptible, like say a 1/4 mph breeze.

    It wouldn't be that hard to set up a cruise control which could detect when the current optimum throttle position no longer was. If it saw the velocity increasing or decreasing by a couple of mph for the same throttle position then it would know it needed to change.

    I wonder if part of this hopping around is related to the incessant charging and discharging of the pack. At lower speeds, like 40 mph, and especially going down a slight grade, it is possible to turn off the motor and the pack (energy display paths all black) with a slight bit of throttle pressure. Going a steady 72 mph on the flat though it seems like the cruise control has no way to take the pack out of the equation, and certainly it can't turn off the motor. But in theory at a perfectly steady speed on the flat it doesn't need, or even want, the pack to be moving current. So it ends up slightly overcharging the pack, sees that isn't right, turns off (or down) the motor (resulting in the high MPG reading), then finds it is undercharging, cranks the motor back up (resulting in the mid 30's mpg) and just bounces around like that.

    I don't have a conventional ICE car with cruise control that also shows instantaneous MPG. Do they settle to (near) constant MPG under static conditions or do they bounce around too?
     
  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Every gust of wind, or change in road conditions (no road is perfectly flat) will change the MPG calculation.

    Only problem you're having is observing your vehicle readings too closely... What you've described is the difference between a brand new battery with 100% capacity and a 10+ year old battery that needs deep cycling & reconditioning that is down to 60% capacity.