P3000 and P0A80 pulled from dr Prius

Your "volt diff" number is too high and indicates you have a bad module that needs to be replaced, likely in block 9...

 

If you have halogen headlights, you can attach that 12v 55w bulb to a module and record the voltage loss at the 2 minute mark. A healthy module will drop between 0.4v and 0.2v.

As for high quality replacement module that match well, this guy is a professor who teach hybrid and EVs at his local college and always sells good stuff: Hybrid Car Battery Distributor | Contact Us | 2nd Life Battery

 

With the voltage difference you have, I would say it's going to be pretty obvious just using a multimeter. Should be easy to find that one, it's the other two or three weak ones that may slip by.

 

He means that as a battery pack ages each module starts to fail at a different rate. In general, people get the luckiest on the very first module they replace. @TMR-JWAP for example got over a year the first time he replaced a module.

But as the years go buy you'll find yourself replacing another module, then another, which isn't too bad if that's what your budget allows.

However, if you want to do an in depth level of testing and reconditioning your pack, the people who learn to do this job can rebuild a pack that will have no issues for at least three years.

Or if your budget allows for it you can buy a brand new OEM pack for $2K and forget about the pack for another decade, as well as use that pack in your next Prius.

Alternatively you can buy a Lithium upgrade pack for about the same price and enjoy all that extra amps to boost MPG, mountain climbing, max AC on hottest days, etc.. The business who sell these packs lives in your area too, so you'll save a hundred bucks on shipping. And if you use my affiliate link I'll give you unlimited tech support: www.projectlithium.com/?ref=9qLPw You also can sell your old pack to a recycler Like Hybrid Pit for $200.

 

DTC Detection Condition
Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (HV battery system malfunction)

Trouble Areas

• HV battery system
• Battery ECU

This is a very general code that really means the hybrid vehicle (HV) battery system is malfunctioning.

There should be other codes, if not now, coming along very soon.

 

Let me add to what you already posted.

The other code is the P0A80 which the OP has listed.

 

The English translation of the P3000 detection condition does seem like you could read it more than one way. "Abnormal signal input from battery ECU (HV battery system malfunction)" might sound like there was something abnormal about the signaling from the battery ECU, as if something's wrong with the battery ECU.

But it doesn't mean that; it just means that the battery ECU sent a signal (just the way it's supposed to) about something being abnormal back there.

So, in this case, the battery ECU decided that the battery is at EoL and said "yo, battery at EoL back here, P0A80", and that's the 'signal' that the HV control ECU got, so now it's saying "yo, I got a signal about a battery issue so I'm saying P3000."

Of course, sometimes there can be issues with the battery ECU and it should get a good looking at while dealing with the battery. But the P3000 by itself isn't telling you there's a problem there.

 

You'll want to open up the ECU and check inside for corrosion of the pins where voltage sensor harness plugs in. The common problem of sudden drops in charge on your display screen is caused when this corrosion gets thick enough and starts micro-arcing between pins.