Water in fuel tank- 2009 Prius

If you go this route go out to the car lift the hood look on the back side of the engine and you will see the black fuel line coming up to the fuel rail of the car which is like a green metal and everything is attached there The problem with this is you're going to have to extend the hose and get it to run into well a container if it's almost full so you've got 11 gallons coming out of the car that's two 5 gallon buckets plus a gallon so you really should have two approved containers funny me saying that but anyway even though you're going to get rid of the gas because it may or may not have water and it'll be good for starting fires or I don't know if you live in the country or what If I had an email I could send you a picture of where you could add a hose and run it down the fender right into a container preferably an approved gas container.

 

Okay it's night time here in North Carolina in the morning pretty early I'll get you some pictures to your email and try to show you a quick way to rig up what you're trying to do which is expel the fuel from the tank.

 

Okay so here's the story on the generation 2 fuel tank draining and what have you If you try to put something down the filler neck at about 22 in in you hit something I'm guessing this is an anti siphon spring or a thin metal plate with holes in it something I don't have a car that far disassembled to look. If you go inside the car lift up the backseat and remove the plate that's glued down not screwed down undo the plugs move the plate to the side The sending unit with the big gray plug on it will not access you to fuel if you're on top of the tank you're on the bladder dry side of the tank so nothing happening up at the top everything's going to have to happen at the bottom or through the filler neck. My idea is through the filler neck I can't find my 5/32 long piece of iron round My idea is to take that stick it 22 in into the tank where it's hitting this anti siphon something another take my hammer tap on the 530 seconds bar until it smacks through whatever is keeping me from stealing the gas pull it back do it again put a few holes in it when I get through that trying to wiggle the business around enlarging the hole once there's one hole in that thing is stressed or a couple little holes it'll be easier to spread then I might take a larger round and push through with that and then go back with the piece of quarter inch OD water line hose for the refrigerator and hope I can get that to go through what I just poked If I'm lucky when I poke whatever it is I'm poking that's blocking the piece from going down it was knocked the whole piece out of the way. But it doesn't look promising another thought I had was to take a hole punch in a strategic place on the tank like on the flat bottom poke a hole in the tank but the gas drain out after the gas is drained out and the water in this case get one of those European oil drain plug rubbers The new style drain plug that involves no nut or no bolt drill the proper size hole for the rubber fill plug closure methodology take my Dremel with the round sanding disc and run it around that hole to deburr it and dull it and then take the little tool and push in the rubber oil drain plug type sealing plug. They sell these rubber plugs in the install tool and whatnot it most parts stores I'm thinking this might be the best method and would probably work very well I have a car here that I could try it on just to see if it will actually seal up when I do that I'm thinking it will The gasoline pushing against the bulb that's created when the ceiling rubbers inserted pushes down and squeezes out the rubber making the seal tighter so on and so forth that seems like that could be accomplished in literally a few minutes with a jack a hole punch a few drill bits and knowing what size the final hole needs to be for one of the smaller drain plug ceiling plugs which I'm going to guess is going to be about 10 or 12 mm diameter and I'm sure there are sealing plug kits made specifically for sheet metal I haven't looked.

 

I wouldn’t be changing anything inside your fuel filler or tank. Might be a the best idea to not try to Rube Goldberg this and take it to a shop and pay for a technicians time to draw out the gas

if you have somebody that is comfortable with gasoline vapor and electricity (sparks) you should be able to activate the pump using the relay in the under hood fuse block and although I don’t know how to disconnect the fuel line supply under the hood it should be part of a YouTube video

 

You buy a set of fuel line disconnect tools are like 995 made out of plastic and you just slip it behind the fitting push it up and pull the fitting off I would be worried about running the pump like that for an hour to empty the tank but maybe not if you burn it up you just going to take the tank out anyway and replace it so there's always that I like the idea of using the rubber drain plug methodology that a lot of cars are using now with the little insert tool but I'm not there yet I've got a spare car out here I'm going to try that on and see if it works that'll make instant access when needed to drain the fuel a no-brainer and I won't need anybody with any sockets or bolts or running my fuel pump into the ground or anything should be a simple gravity process. Older Toyota's had a 3/8 drive square plug in them all you did was take a 3/8 drive ratchet and extension stick it in the square lefty loosey and out the gas came yeah that was too easy I know they had to make it a big song and dance so somebody's going to go to a shop to waste their time to drain gas out of a car that even sounds silly but that's the way things are and we'll work around.