Safety steps before working on wire harness

I would probably disconnect the 12 volt just because main thing you want to do is make sure the remotes away from the car and it doesn't try to be turned on or anything else It's completely off and stays that way while you have the wires undone looking down around the throttle body I mean anyway you can get it down to its lowest point of connections obviously but you'll work that out by what you bought and where you're going to install and there's a bunch of ways to join the wires or shouldn't really be a big deal You can even buy a aftermarket plug male and female and all of that they make some pretty instantaneous ones now that can take up to oh I don't know usually 12 to 24 connectors or wires or what have you.

 

Does gen 2 have an "engine" harness as well as an "engine room main" harness, like gen 3 does, where the "main" one goes all 'round the engine compartment and through the firewall, while the "engine" one is just kinda draped over the engine?

Replacing the "main" one is more of a monumental task, but the "engine" one might not be so bad. If I didn't have a spare, I'd probably just repair the damaged wires and call it a day, but if I had the whole thing already, maybe I'd just swap it.

Most annoying part is usually the clips that hold it in place. Just about the time you get the hang of releasing them, it switches to a different kind of clip.

 

A lot of the clips along the length of the harness have a pair of opposed jaws, that secure by pushing through a square opening, locking on the far side.

Someone here found (when accessible) reaching ‘round back of the clip and pressing the business end of a 10 mm hex socket against the jaws, it compressed them enough that with a pull on the front the jaws would slip out of the opening, releasing the clip.

I’d suppose a 10 mm ID tube of some sort, say a plumbing fitting, could work similarly.

when the back of the clip is not readily accessible, then a thin bladed screw driver blade (or pen knife tip) slipped behind the front flange of the clip and pressed against the jaw, may allow the jaws to release, one side at a time.

and some will release with just a moderate yoink, especially if they’ve been pulled off in past.

for clips securing electrical connectors into sockets, there’s often a place to press on the side of the connector that when pressed will “theoretically” lever a single-side locking jaw out of it’s pocket. In reality an ineffective lever, coupled with the overall friction tenacity of all the pins, can make these connectors a bear to disconnect. Again, a slim screw driver or pen knife blade can help, to simultaneously lift the jaw out of it’s pocket, and lever the whole connector up and off the pins.

Take it easy with this method though, to avoid snapping the jaw off.

 

Yes it's just like that. The engine harness is for the ICE only, then goes through the firewall to the ECM with a connector or two for the main dash harness.

For me it would depend on the condition of the existing harness. I would likely just splice a replacement connector on if possible.

Buying a used harness can more cost effective than getting several connectors from Toyota. I think a crank position connector was something like $60 or more, while a complete harness from ebay was less than $100.

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You posted Amazon links. What happens to those is a two-step deal:

1) When you make your post, the PriusChat forum software likes to look through it for any bits that look like Amazon links, and turn those into [media=amazon]...[/media] BBcode as it saves the post.

2) Any time you view a post containing such [media=amazon] BBcode, that BBcode gets replaced by an iframe and a blob of JavaScript to track what Amazon links you're looking at and show you advertisements.

When such a post is viewed by anyone using security settings that restrict JavaScript, those blobs generally don't show up at all, just a certain amount of blank space.

It's been covered before, such as in this thread, which demonstrates some workarounds.