New Nexcell Battery + P3000

Hi All,

I replaced the original HV battery in late 2023 with a new Nexcell Lithium Ion unit. The new battery was easy to install and worked great (was seeing about +10MPG) for about 2 months. Then I started getting a P3000 code, that I cant overcome. Summary of events below:

• Drove vehicle about 10 miles from home and parked. Upon return to vehicle there was no power at all so I climbed back to the 12V compartment and must have rattled something when grabbing for the compartment because everything powered back on.
  
• Drove the vehicle about 2 miles away and left for 1 hour.
  
• Returned to vehicle and drove back 2 miles, popped rear hatch and disassembled the 12v compartment. Noticed there was no bolt holding terminal to post. Drove to hardware store and installed new bolt in parking lot. On the drive home the vehicle threw the red triangle and went into limp mode (no HV battery).
  
• Had vehicle towed back to my residence where its been since. Read code and got P3000.

Steps taken to rectify:

• New 12V battery
• Cut out HV battery fan connections and reconnect with wire nuts
• New No.1 and No.2 Wiring harnesses (all new bus bars)
• New (ebay) HV ECU

After all that, i still get the P3000 code after about 5 seconds of the vehicle being in "ready" mode. The battery engages, and then clicks off and throws the code. The new battery appears to be in good working condition with 16v coming from each module, shown in Dr. Prius app and measured via multi meter. I don't have access to Techstream so I can't get the -xxx INF code.

I've read just about every P3000 code thread I can find here and elsewhere, any other thoughts? Photos attached. (please ignore the Elf on the Shelf that slipped down into the photo frame).

 

Thanks for the quick replies all. I've opened up the original HV ECU and it looks about as clean as the day it was manufactured (see photos). I've checked all the bus bar connections (multiple times as I've read in other threads) and those are all tight.

The modules I'm working with are the V2.5, he replaced my pack just after I got the original 2.0 pack (it was before I even got to the install process). J from Nexcell has indicated he would be open to me sending the modules back for testing which may be my next step here. Even if they all look OK in the Dr. Prius app, could something be wonky with a battery module?

Thanks for the link to those scanner apps, i somehow missed that thread in my exhaustive searching of this forum the past month and a half, I've ordered the AP200 scanner so I can grab the INF code its producing. https: //a.co/d/byQYJVl (this is the one)

 

Quick update: I received the Autel AP200 scan tool (thanks overnight Amazon guy!), and got it all setup this morning. This scanner is much more full featured then the Dr. Prius app or the other OBDII app i was previously using. (Thanks mr_guy_mann for pointing me in the correct direction). The HV control is still throwing the P3000 (can't seem to find the INF?), but the HV Battery is now showing a P0A95 (high voltage fuse). I assume the clearing the latter will solve the former.

I pulled the HV plug (orange guy that goes in and down) and tested the fuse - its good. Makes a nice beep sound when tested with the multimeter. I clicked, and pushed until i thought i might crack or break something, still no dice. Same code. The connector from the battery (wire frame #1 is new), and all the connections look clean.

Any thoughts?

 

Another update:

I completed the attached service manual section and everything checks out good:

• Plug terminals are good
• battery plug is in good working order (i have two and tested both)

After step 3 is replace battery ECU ASSY, which I did with the EBAY part. Could test again with the original ECU?

• HV fuse also in good working order

Next step in flow chart is to replace the service plug grip - but unsure how that's going to help since it all seems to be in good working condition?

The Detection Condition Reads:

Voltage between VBB9 and VBB10 terminals is below standard in spite of interlock switch being engaged (1 trip detection logic)

What is the voltage between the two supposed to be? How can I read my actual voltage difference? Is this a battery issue?

 

Ok, so i was able to grab the Freeze Frame data from the Autel AP200 for that code - it shows the #10 block at approx -8 volts while all others are around the 16ish V mark.

With that info hand, is there still info in the Dr. Prius app that would be beneficial?

 

Update:

Figure i should provide an update on this for anyone visiting here down the road.

The issue was with the Nexcell module having a defect from the factory. There was a connector that had come loose inside the two sided module. The Project Lithium team sent me a new battery immediately and after install the vehicle is operating again as normal.

Thanks for everyone who helped me troubleshoot through this!