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P3125 with info code 316

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Supernouht, May 10, 2024.

  1. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Hi I have an 03 prius with 250k miles it drives perfect, very strong in reverse, no stombles etc.

    But afte about 30min of driving without warning the red triangle will come on, engine will shut off and I will instantly lose all power to move and have to coast to the side of the road (it can actually be quite dangerous).

    I can turn off the ignition for 5 second, start and drive again, but once it is warmed up and had done it once it will keep happening every 5 min or so. If I let it cool down for an hour then I can drive again for another 30 min.

    On a hot day it may only be 15min of drive time and on a very cold day I can drive for ober an hour with no issues.

    I have tried bleeding the inverter coolant, and even tried running an engine floosh product through the inverter coolant system. I have also physically verified that the inverter coolant pump is spinning and pushing fluid through the system. (And I see SOME fluid movement in the reservoir but not a lot, sometimes it seems like it isn't moving, but I can hear the pump going and like I said I have verified the pump is moving fluid so I think it's just hrd tonsee sometimes?)

    Codes are p3125 & p3100 and the INFO codes are 316, 392 & 159

    The mechanic who pulled the codes for me looked it up in some resource he has access to and said that other mechanics have fixed the problem by replacing the MG2. I have actually had an MG2 go bad in a 2001 prius I had years ago and that car made a whinning noise and would violently shake etc (which was all fixed when I replaced the MG2 stator).
    This car has none of that, and had a strong reverse so I don't feel like it is a shorted MG2 stator.

    Here is some info I found on the INFO codes:

    316 Generator Inverter Sinv. +B short in generator inverter stop signal circuit

    159 HV ECU internal error. Motor ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction

    392 HV ECU internal error. Motor CPU malfunction

    One recommendation for the 316 INFO code is to check wiring/connections between the hvecu and inverter, but I don't think that would be effected by heat like my issue.

    Next I plan to flush the transmission fluid, as I figure if the fluid is low the cooling would be compromised also I could have metal particles in the fluid possibly causing an intermittent short??

    But as I said before, when it's cold out even with engine warmed up I can go full throttle up a long freeway hill climb and pass cars at 70mph with no problems so it really doesn't seem like a stator issue.

    If anyone has any insight or experience with these sub codes I'd love to hear.
    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    I also found this, though I don't fully understand what it is saying to be honest

    "The HV ECU checks the line connection of the generator inverter stop signal circuit and enters the fail safe
    mode (limited driving) if malfunction is detected.
    DTC P3125 - Information code 316, 318
    Wiring Diagram
    Inspection Procedure
    1. Check for open, short and +B short in wire harness between HV ECU GSIV and GIVG terminals and
    converter & inverter assembly G-SINV AND G-GINV terminals. See HOW TO USE THE DIAGNOSTIC
    CHART AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE .
    NOTE: The generator inverter stop signal circuit has +B short
    if the voltage between the HV ECU GSIV or GIVG terminal and
    body ground is always more than 13 V with the ignition ON
    ("READY" light OFF).
    NG: Repair or replace wire harness.
    OK: Replace converter & inverter assembly. "
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Anyone know what the GSIV and GIVG etc terminals are and where to find them?
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    GSIV is a signal between the HV ECU and the inverter section responsible for MG1, and it signals when that inverter section needs to stop; GIVG is the reference ground for that signal. The diagram in the repair manual under codes 316, 318 shows the connector IDs and pin numbers at both the HV ECU and the inverter ends. Your screenshot looks a lot like some sort of text extract from the manual, with the diagrams missing.

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

    Seems unlikely given the codes you've got. Sometimes it's unclear how a story like that gets started.

    That's the natural recommendation because that's what the code is telling you. Sometimes there is an argument for second-guessing a troubleshooting step the way you're doing here, but only if you're so sure of yourself you'd bet a working car that there can't be any way what the code reports could fit with your other observations. Not if you just haven't thought of a way.

    Other side of the same coin, there's pretty much never a good argument for spending much time on things far away from what the code is telling you. P3125-316 isn't complaining about inverter coolant or transmission fluid or the stator. It's complaining about something to do with the GSIV signal.

    But we haven't said much yet about those other codes, P3100-159 and -392, and we should. The repair manual has a pretty blunt troubleshooting message for those:

    If any of the above information codes is output, replace the HV ECU.​

    If that ECU is going on the fritz, maybe just when it gets warm, then there's not a lot of point trying to look elsewhere for a problem before it is replaced. That ECU is responsible for the GSIV signal too, so the P3125-316 problem might also go away with a non-failing ECU.

    The HV ECU is found beneath the carpet at the front passenger's feet.
     
  5. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    LMK, if you need the HV ECU. A few dollars for my labor + shipping, and it's yours.
     
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  6. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    ChapmanF:
    Yes! The hvecu would warm up after driving a while and being on the floor there would be slightly exposed to outside temps. And heat always makes electronics less efficient. This makes a lot of sense!

    Ok next step (when I get some time when I'm not watching the baby) is to pull the hvecu and and inspect it and the wireharness where it connects.

    Can any 1st gen hvecu be swapped in there or does it need to be "married" to other ecu's etc?
     
  7. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Hey thanks, I may take you up on that! Just need to find time to have a look at mine first.

    I have a friend that currently owns my old '01. He is rebuilding his battery right now so I could try temporarily swappingin his hvecu as a test maybe?
     
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  8. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Well I bought a replacement hveco off ebay with the exact part number for $35 however the car won't goninto ready mode with it installed. Does anyone know if there is an additional step necessary to program thenunit tonthencar or something??
    Or maybe I just bought a bad part?
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, whenever the transponder key ECU or the HV ECU has been changed, they need to introduce themselves to each other, which takes 30 minutes with the key ON before trying to go READY.
     
  10. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Oooooh! Awesome, I'll go turn the key on, thanks!
    Also I did confirm that the problem is with my hvecu getting hot. I removed the case and layed the board on the carpet at the floor of the passenger seat with the AC blowing on it keeping it cold to the touch and drove around all day without issues. (Other than me being cold in the car)
     
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  11. Supernouht

    Supernouht New Member

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    Ok it's officially fixed!
    New (used) hvecu was the ticket.
    Been 2 days now with lots of driving and no issues!

    On a side note I did actually try to repair my original hvecu. There are 3 large transistors attached to an aluminum block heat sync that were getting very hot so I replaced all 3 with an NT equivalent (which work as replacements for the transistors but because they have a metal plate on the back which is connected to the middle leg it caused the case of the hvecu to have +5v running through it, so if it touched the frame of the car it would immediately shut down the car.)
    Unfortunately though they did run cooler it did not fix the problem. There was another lone transistor that also got hot after a while and I suspect this is the culprit, but the local shop didn't have a replacement listed in their system and I had already ordered the new HVECU by then so I didn't mess with it further.

    Anyway thanks a lot everyone, Prius lives on!
     
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  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    (y)

    I'm pretty sure you can buy thermally-conductive electrical insulator sheets pre-cut to the size of those transistors' backs, sort of like this kit (if those transistors were TO-220 shape).