New Inverter Coolant Pump, No Joy

are there 12 volts at the pump?

 

maybe something clogged, is it an oem pump from a dealer?

 

anything is possible i suppose. there has been a flood of counterfeit chinese parts on the market that don't work out of the box.

 

You see no turbulence but is the code gone even if you cleared it you drive the vehicle or what have you does it code?

 

I don't recall the details but if the coolant level is off (high or low, don't remember) it can be difficult to see the turbulence.

 

Deleted my post.

 

Hoses backwards? Still air bound? The car does not need to be in READY for the pump to run. Foot off the brake and press power button 2 times. This ensures engine noise and vibration will not interfere with the pump noise/flow indication in the reservoir. If the pump is running it should be humming, loud is bad and means it's air bound. Pump gets quiet when moving fluid. Sometimes the bleeder nipple needs to be very loose to get flow to start. Make sure you have a hose on the bleeder and route it back to the reservoir

On another note, hopefully you're replacing the correct pump. Located directly behind the driverside headlight, right?

Also, there is a single wire plug located just above and to the left of the underhood fuse box. Make sure this plug is seated correctly. It kills the power path for the ICWP. Sometimes, people will unplug it and then replace the 15 amp fuse (if it blew when the pump failed), but forget to plug it back in after the pump is replaced. I've also seen it where the wire breaks at that plug or where the wire enters the harness a couple inches away.

 

I've replaced dozens. If there is no flow, either the pump is not running, it is air bound, or the bleeder is clogged/not loose enough. Although I've heard of it happening, I've never experienced clogged inverter coolant passages.

Remove the bleeder and verify it, and the tube it threads into, aren't clogged. Then reinstall it loosely and install your tube.
Put the car in Ig-ON, not ready. The pump should be running. It should be obvious from humming and pump vibration. If it isn't you need to resolve that first..
Once you're sure the pump is running, start squeezing the hoses to stimulate flow. You should hear the pump hum changing as it moves coolant and air bubbles. Coolant should start moving through the tube. How much coolant did you lose when changing the pump? If you used plier clamps for the hoses it should have only lost a couple ounces. If you lost a lot, it may take a bit longer to get it bled and filled.

 

You can blow 10 PSI or so of air through the coolant hoses with the cap off of the jug and you should see your air that you blew through either hose run through the system and bubble up in the jug You can even do it with your mouth if you have an extension tube to reach down to the two tubes from your mouth that actually go to the inverter pump I've done it right here just to see if I in fact have flow that my breath can go through and come out the other hose If I use my air hose I turn the regulator down to about 10 or 15 lb not run the 120 through there.

 

Don't forget to check that connector above the underhood fuse box! You don't want to do a bunch of work and just have it end up being a broken wire up there.