Hybrid system Malfunction (Visit Your Dealership)

There are 21 documents in the PHEV Air Conditioning section. I'll upload the general overview doc so you can get an idea of the style and format. Some docs are long, and some are just a couple sentences.

My advice would be to pay for the two day access during a time you can spend several hours over the two days. The site isn't the most user friendly, and it can take awhile to figure out how to find what you're looking for. Honestly, spending $95 for a full month of access isn't a terrible idea the very first time you access the system. You can take your time exploring without feeling like there's a ticking clock over your head. Then you can do the 2-day access down the road when you just need one or two things and you already know how to look for them.

 

I think he means the following video from about a month and a half ago:
(but they do cover much the same info)

 

Yes the recent CCN video is a broader overview but references the more detailed earlier video.

WeberAuto’s heat pump video speaks with more authority on the role of heat pumps and Tesla’s ability to capture heat from electronics and other unexpected sources when needed.

 

Wow, this is not good at all, as it almost sounds like whenever the A/C fails, you will also need to replace the traction battery. Now, imagine in a few years when the warranty expires and A/C problems become very common. How would you afford a repair, which would probably cost $10,000? I am glad that Gen 4 Prius Prime uses air-cooling.

 

Regarding the 12-V battery, any centrally vented BCI 140R/DIN H4/EN LN1 flooded-cell (not AGM) calcium lead–acid battery works in Gen 5. There are many brands out there, including Walmart EverStart Maxx BCI 140R and EverStart Maxx DIN H4. I believe Toyota TrueStart DIN H4 is also centrally vented. You need central venting to be able to connect the exhaust hose.

 

Imagine this happened in a couple of years with your warranty expired.

 

Ha ha, yes, I am ahead of generations again. LOL

 

Toyota is replacing the OEM GS Yuasa EN LN1 battery with the Toyota TrueStart DIN H4. There should be plenty of those in stock.

You can see that it is centrally vented, with a hole in either side and with a tear-off red plug attached to the positive-terminal cover to plug the unused hole.





The Walmart EverStart Maxx BCI 140R has a much larger reserve capacity (RC) of 95 minutes than the 74 minutes of the Toyota TrueStart DIN H4.

 

That’s about what I used to pay for one of these, well organized and edited, very thorough:

 

Cold Cranking Amps have absolutely nothing to do with a hybrid that doesn't have a starter.

 

Seems a little stingy considering they're lucky enough to count you as a customer. You know "some" manufacturers give service manual access for free ;

https://service.tesla.com/docs/ModelY/ServiceManual/en-us/

Tesla service manuals are now free, diagnostic software gets price increase

no ticking of clock running ....
.

 

This is absolutely wrong.

The DC–DC converter for the 12-V system does not kick in as soon as you push the start button. Therefore, you are looking at at least 100 A or more initially drawn from the 12-V battery when you start an HEV/PHEV/BEV. Once the system starts, the DC–DC converter will take over to supply the 100 A or more that is necessary to run the system, but that requires about a second if not more to happen. This is exactly why the Prius won't start with a weak 12-V battery. This is not much different than a car with a starter in that sense.

Moreover, the CCA is mentioned in the Prius owner's manual, and the new-car features manual mentions that the starting performance (SOF) is one of the things the battery sensor measures. Owners with a 12-V-battery monitor also report the brief voltage drop due to the large current drawn during the start-up. If the 12-V battery is weak with a high internal resistance due to battery degradation/cold weather/poor build quality, this brief voltage drop due to a large current at the start-up will be too large, and the car will not be able to start and go into the READY mode as a result.

●Use a battery that the case size is same as the previous one (LN1), 20 hour rate capacity (20HR) is equivalent (45Ah) or greater, and performance rating (CCA) is equivalent (285A) or greater.

BATTERY SENSOR
CONSTRUCTION

(a) The battery sensor (battery state sensor assembly) installed to the negative (−) auxiliary battery terminal calculates the current, voltage, battery temperature, SOC (battery charging percentage), SOH (battery degradation percentage), SOF (starting performance) and self-diagnosis result and sends these signals to the hybrid vehicle control ECU via LIN communication.​

I believe the CCA ratings for BCI, DIN, and EN batteries might be measured differently.

 

LOL Yeah, I had paid good money in 1995 for the copy of my OEM repair manual for my 1985 Corolla FWD. I was excited to get it. Those times are long gone. It is time to adapt to the new times.

Get a modern car already, Mendel. LOL