P0A0D to no end…

Hello to all. I had a hybrid battery that I had to replace a few modules in, so I took it out of the vehicle and did several different load tests on each individual module in different conditions and the failed modules have now been replaced and grid charged to 137v total pack voltage, then discharged, then charged back up, left for 24 hours, checked voltages, then load tested, etc. Everything was fine so I topped off the charge and put the battery pack back in. With the downtime on waiting for charging and discharging, I also cleaned the whole EGR system, which doesn’t amount to much on my concern I don’t think.

I put the battery is back in and all plugs are plugged in, including the interlocking switch (yes it’s in correctly, 100%). I have tested this circuit and it’s good but the battery voltage sensor ecu is saying otherwise.

This has been a nightmare and I’m reaching out in hopes of someone out there who has experienced this because I’m out of what the heck to do next.

Will not go into “READY” mode. Hybrid battery COOLING FAN is on as soon as the ignition is “on” and remains on until I power off the ignition.

I have replaced all the bus bars and nuts. I have replaced the bus bar wiring harness to the battery ecu and I have also replaced the whole junction relay box with new relays.

Techstream says as follows:

P0A0D
P0AE7
U029A
P0453

Also,
Anyone know what “connector cover assembly” is in the “ILK” circuit right before it gets to the “air conditioning harness”?

Thanks in advance. I’ve learned so much from this forum!

 

Not positive, but in the diagram you are referring to, all three of ("inverter terminal cover", "no. 4 floor wire", and "connector cover assembly") are shown as being within the inverter with converter assembly. My first guess would be that you find more than one independently openable terminal cover on the inverter, and a pair of interlock contacts beneath each one.

None of those would normally be the cause of a P0A0D unless you had removed any of those covers on the inverter.

Only the P0A0D code is about the interlock circuit. The other codes you have indicate other issues and should be looked up on their own.[/QUOTE]

ahhh.. Yes. The inverter cover I’m not sure why I didn’t realize that yesterday. That should be fine under the cover. This P0A0D that has been brought upon me is beyond me and I’m not understanding what could possibly be the problem but when I can accomplish that, I can at least get into ready mode and other codes my disappear along with it would be nice.

My fan kicks on and it remains on which could indicate a stuck relay by chance and will check it as soon as I get a moment..?..
As for this interlocking switch trouble code, I think I might just trace the 2 wires back and see where they go exactly. I jumpered them together at the interlocking switch at the connector, so that’s isolated from being the problem. The leads coming off the battery have the packs volts being delivered to the junction box with the switch engaged as well.

 

I’m not sure that I replied correctly, format wise...

 

**Update**

Last week I bought a subscription to Alldata to diagnose my situation. All my symptoms and testing lead to a faulty Power Management ECU. I ordered the part and received it in the mail today. I will be replacing the old with the new and will post my results afterwards for anyone who has a similar situation at hand, but I do recommend anyone with a no “ready” mode problem, to use the repair manual for their own diagnosis that will likely be different than mine.

 

Well I replaced the Power Management control unit, as Alldata suggested and not a damn thing changed but another code added to my list. B2799 Awesome.

 

A little update for those interested. After replacing the power control management, I decided to test the individual modules. During my testing, I found that one of the two modules I bought off eBay was reading around 7V. All the others tested between 7.6 to 7.7 V. This is after the battery pack sat for about a month. I have yet to accomplish getting it back into ready mode.

I put a good module in its place, charged the pack all the way up and reinstalled the pack. Nothing changed. The only difference I saw was Techstream didn’t pull my vehicle up automatically with the Vin number as it used to. I manually put in the Vin number. Now the hybrid battery has a full charge as well as 12 V because I keep it on a maintainer! What I am doing wrong I am eager to find out one day! LMAO.

 

I do indeed still have the P0A0D code. My Techstream does not display any of the battery cell values correctly, Same goes with the hybrid battery’s overall voltage.( Reads exact same numbers no matter what ). Is this because of the U029a code?

 

Well, actually today I did some testing on the interlock wiring from the interlock to the connectors and I made some progress. Big time. You’ll never believe this, but come to find out, there are two identical plugs, right there around where all the plug-ins are for the GEN three that you disconnect in order to remove, the hybrid battery pack. Why they decided to do this is beyond me. W Idiot hile looking at the Alldata wiring diagrams for the interlock circuit, I noticed the wiring was going through one of the two connectors that are IDENTICAL. The key giveaway here was That one was going through the Tire, well to the side of the vehicle. (Canister). I thought to myself, there’s no way on earth that’s the right plug. I started searching around and not far from that plug was another. That was the exact same plug so I swapped them. Made more sense that I looked at it because the wiring kind of matched much better than the connector through the tire well!!

I was finally getting continuity between The inverter and the interlock plug. From here, I went through every single connector with some carburetor cleaner and spray them with air cleaning them all. Few other things but long story short these are the before and after codes. I’m making my way.

 

went through all the steps for the interlock code. Everything test perfectly except for this step here as I posted an image of below. It’s asking for 12 to 14 V and I’m only getting 5.8 or so.