Anyone have a good visual of fuel system in engine bay?

Before starting it up? FWIW, when I pop the hood on our '10 there's usually a slight "bouquet".

Congrats on the job, btw.

 

I wouldn't think you'd need to disturb the injectors or fuel rail. Maybe something amiss with the intake manifold? There's two PCV hoses on it; I know from personal experience if the main lower hose (from the PCV valve) is disconnected the car will flat-out refuse to run.

There's also a hose running gas tank vapours back to the intake manifold, plugs in just below the throttle body, around 3 o'clock orientation. Again, not sure if the car would even run, with it disconnected.

 

The egr system is flowing exhaust into the intake. Eg “Exhaust Gas Recirculation”. So if the egr cooler, valve or pipe is missing a gasket you can have an exhaust leak under the hood.

 

It is much better to make instrumental measurements using programs and look at the engine operating parameters using them.
Do you have the opportunity to use some kind of scanner or a special Techstream program?

 

There’s maybe 5 connections along the EGR path, between exhaust and intake manifolds. Check ‘em all? I know that’s not trivial, basically a redo. Any possibility a gasket was forgotten? There’s one right at the back, where the EGR cooler connects to exhaust manifold. If you remove the two studs there first, it’s very easy to drop the gasket there, and not realize there was one.

 

P0403 technically means the egr is not moving properly and it is most likely an electrical problem. It could be a connection problem, a bad egr valve or open or shorted wiring.

A Techstream egr active step test while monitoring map pressure can verify operation. It is possible your egr is shut 100% of the time which can make the engine run smoother.

Exhaust smell? When cold the engine runs rich by design and sometimes you can smell the richer mixture in the exhaust. Otherwise the egr system has gaskets and can be leaking especially if someone has been working on it.

One of the biggest troubleshooting mistakes is to blindly assume something is good and then never check it again.

 

Techstream is Toyota’s factory obd2 scanner and is capable of active tests

 

You can price the legitimate version here:

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3D_rseJ1Kj8OeHKqOAXDjQl5vwQDc&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F

Best to be sitting down...

Most DIY'rs get a bootleg copy, and a third-party cable. And a cheap laptop, just for that, never connected to internet.

I've yet to do any ot this.

 

The presence of an exhaust odor in the engine compartment may be due to faulty gaskets on the outlet at the junction of the engine and exhaust pipe sections. Considering that the system has an EGR, etching is possible from the cooler or the EGR valve, as well as the places where they connect. The worst case is if the EGR valve is stuck in the open position due to clogging. Then some of the exhaust gases will always enter the inlet circuit.

 

Mendel might be trying to give a pre-Hallowe'en scare by linking to a page that advertises the "Techstream Lite" bundle.

What you need is a laptop, the software download, a license to use it, and a dongle to plug in to the car. If you buy that bundle, what you're getting is a full year's licensed use (normally $1360) and the exact dongle that Toyota recommends and supports ($500-ish as I recall). You bring your own laptop.

For somebody running a shop, that could be an economical way to go. Most other folks, who aren't running a shop but still want to be 'legit', will probably end up buying some other J2534 dongle that's less money (a one-time outlay), and going with the $70 two-day license whenever they need to use it (still beats the pants off a dealer visit, and especially if you end up using it repeatedly in those two days).