Wrapping stock intake with tinfoil bubble and then heat resistant wrap?

Some people think they'll live longer by never leaving their house except for food and doctor appointments and if they don't take any risks they be able to "thrive" longer than people who make the most of life and have fun because they take risks.

 

The inverter pump stays on.

The engine water pump turns off immediately with the engine if the system is not fully warmed up (eg in the op's desired temperature range).

When the engine is fully warmed up the water pump follows engine off after ~10 seconds.

The above is with the latest ecu code, the system in Ready, with or without ac.

 

I'd love to know how you drive 3K miles a month at below 188 degrees consistently? That's a hilarious claim to make...

 

Lol, by exhausting heat through your cabin you're forcing your hyrbid battery to run hotter (shorter lifespan) because it's ventilation system is dependent on cool cabin temperatures... You just keep digging your hole deeper and deeper...

 

Batteries, like engines work best at optimum temps... In general if you're running AC and staying cool and relaxing and not stressed, so is your battery.

Of course your battery could at times be a pet trapped in a parking lot all day in full sun in Summer and cooking too hot before you even start the car to heat it up even more while engine temps stay cool...

Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are pretty good with their heat dissipation abilities in alot of ways, but everything has limits... Lithium being the biggest baby and need temps near perfect to avoid a shortened lifespan. Sodium Ion on the other hand... It pretty much solves temperature problems because of a much greater operating range. It's one of the few things you can do to be certain you've improved your car's lifespan and performance at the same time.

 

Also the hybrid battery fan isn't a primary battery system, it's a backup protection cooling systems when temps get too extreme. Usually the only time most people hear their battery fan is when they get warning lights and hybrid system shuts down and fan defaults to full speed.

 

I will check this out using Techstream, hopefully today. I have the latest ECM firmware for my 2011 Prius. I thought that the engine water pump would not stop because it is used to circulate coolant through the heater for the cabin.

@ChapmanF. Can you please give any insight about this.

 

You’re 37 now? That’s a lofty goal.

I think the best tack with this thread is to walk away; I’m going to do that.

 

If there is a demand for cabin heat (the HVAC setpoint is above the current cabin temp) the engine water pump stays on with the engine stopped, so it can continue delivering hot coolant to the heater (which it can do for a pretty long time, essentially using the thermal mass of the engine materials as a bank of stored heat, and aluminum has a very high thermal mass).

Gen 1 and gen 2 had a separate electric pump to do that when the engine was stopped, when the main engine water pump was belt-driven, but starting in gen 3 the electric engine pump does the job of both.

 

I did that awhile ago, since he's delusional and will be very disappointed IRL - but I'm sure he'll find someone ELSE to blame his troubles on.

 

That's a shining example of the kind of empirical question that people use instruments and experiments to answer, exactly because "common sense" has no traction on it at all. Not many people were born knowing, or happened to pick up in random conversations between innings at the game, just how many extra degrees of engine bay heat will be seen above x RPM, or whether that's the same for all engine bays in all cars, or why x=2200 would be more special than x=2150 or x=2500 or any other choice.

Common sense involves (among other things) not pulling some empirical claim out of the air and then dressing it up with "it's common sense that ...".

 

OP's question asked and answered. Actions speak louder than words. Don't forget to post pictures.