I find the cause of my problem...finally!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Prius92, Jul 6, 2025.

  1. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The oil usage wasn't due to stuck oil rings?

    Details on what was done to the motor please. My guesses.:

    The cylinders were honed?
    Slightly larger rings?
    All valve seals replaced? (why not if the engine is already apart)
    Big engine seals replaced? (ditto)
    Rod bearings replaced (ditto)
    Anything else?

    Cost and time?
     
  2. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

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    Ended up costing more than another low mile engine, the prices of the engines went down, and prices of machining went up due to the pandemic during the time I rebuilt it.

    Cylinders were honed very slightly, but these blocks have a factory coating on the sleeves, so you cannot bore them out, they don't even sell oversized rings for these. There's a spec on max wear on bore, this engine was quite a ways from that.

    New parts:
    Every single gasket/seal/o-ring/etc was replaced. Some I dealer ordered because the includes ones were not the same material.
    All the timing components were replaced. Chain, gear, hydraulic tensioner, expensive dampener on the one camshaft, etc.
    New VVT solenoid, oil pressure sensor, temp sensors, all electrical parts that went on the engine were replaced including a reman throttle body.
    New name brand water pump.
    New Toyota OEM piston rings.
    New spark plugs.
    New main and rod bearings.
    New motor mounts as the old ones were pretty ate up.
    Head was fully cleaned, new seals installed, then leak tested.

    I had $1,600 in it. That was doing all the assembly myself and a shop doing the cleaning and machining. Parts alone were around $900.

    The most labor intensive part was putting all the lifter cups in, because you only have a few thousandths of tolerance on each one, so you have to kind of play whack-a-mole a bit.

    Here's a shot of the engine during assembly.
    [​IMG]

    Now you can get engines pulled from low-mileage wrecks in Japan for around $1150 to your door.
     
  3. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I am curious if you could actually see why it was burning oil.

    Dogma for this car is that the oil burning results from the rings getting immobilized by carbon deposits.
    Scored up pistons could also result in oil burning, although dogma is that this isn't the problem on a Prius.
    Bad valve seals can also cause oil burning.

    Were any of the rings stuck?
    Was there any visible damage to the cylinder walls?
    Were any of the valve seals damaged or heavily worn?

    Your rebuild cost more than a used engine, but at least you know exactly what went back into your car, which is worth something.
     
  4. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

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    From what I remember there was a lot of carbon in the oil control rings.
     
  5. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

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    Things are taking shape. Got new foam installed on the top cover. Had to glue it down on the curves. The old adhesive was still tacky which helped a lot. I'm not sure why the ends loop over like that, but I simply stuck it using the old adhesive as outlines.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

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    This is not my battery, but I noticed mine doesn't have this black plastic piece near the computer.
    Will this hurt airflow?
    [​IMG]
     
  7. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Please just mark the photo with an arrow or something. I'm not sure what you are referring to.

    There is a picture of a pack at a different angle here about 40% of the way down the page:

    Toyota Prius Gen 2 Battery - Battery Design

    You can see there that the white/yellow plastic on top at each end is where the metal rods that clamp the modules together attach. The black piece above it near the battery sure looks like an air dam. I don't know if they are all like that though. Some might have foam rubber in that location instead. Also I vaguely recall that the Gen 3 has the fan on the other side, and that doesn't have any block on top at that location because the air is supposed to flow through there. Oddly the top picture in the link above seems to be of a Gen 3 pack, since the fan is on the computer side.

    The foam rubber pieces with the white tape on the side are also air dams. They also help hold cables in place.
     
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  8. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    100%. You need to find a replacement.
     
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  9. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Which could be quite challenging. It might come down to fashioning one by carving it out of a block of plastic or dense foam, or 3D printing it. As discussed above expanding foam is likely to expand too far and block other parts of the ventilation. I suppose though one could put some cardboard around it, place the foam with the case top off, then carve that back to fit inside the case.
     
  10. Prius92

    Prius92 Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    So from the factory manual itself, airflow is supposed to completely stop before the separate area that houses the electronics and flow down the sides.

    I'm going to add foam, but it appears this was one of the main causes of the battery pack not cooling down, air would blow out near the electronics and then completely stop.
     
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  11. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    If the end of the battery (near the ecu) isn't fully sealed off, then airflow will "leak out" around the ecu sheetmetal instead of being forced through the battery modules.

    So you need the black air dam, I think there's another on the bottom. Also need the foam pieces on the sides of the end module (they have white tape on the outside and are in line with the air dam).

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  12. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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  13. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    LOL.....that IS your problem. Not the cable, nothing else....that missing plastic piece is your overheating problem, since that is what forces the incoming air to change direction and go downward between each battery module. Without it, the air just continues straight across the top of the modules and out the ecu end of the case....THAT missing piece is a rookie move seen very often when DIY buys a new OEM battery and switches the components from their old battery to the new and forgets some of them. It's probably the most forgotten piece. The two black foam inserts on the sides are good to have, but as long as the foam strips on the upper case are present, they seal against the top edges of the modules=>very minimal cooling air leaks to the side area of the modules. The bottom plastic piece is important only because it keeps the "heated" air from entering the electronics compartment. It pretty much forces airflow to go into the exit ductwork and out of the car.
     
    #33 Hayslayer, Jul 12, 2025 at 8:07 PM
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2025 at 8:14 PM
  14. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Verify that whatever you use is nonconducting. In the original position it probably doesn't matter but if bits of it break off you don't want any of it landing on conductors in the ECU area and shorting them.

    Foam isn't always nonconducting. When people first started building replacement IMA packs for the Honda Civic Hybrid (2003-2005 model) some thought they could get away without heat shrinking the battery sticks. These sticks were mounted with the ends sticking out, back and forth, in a big foam block, which pretty much everybody assumed was nonconducting. That assumption was incorrect and some unpleasant excitement ensued.