Hot brake rotors(disks) , replaced everything, its still hot

Prius 2009 Europe, xw30, currently have 155000 kilometers

I noticed that my front left break rotor is getting hot after I drive so I replaced rotor, pads, re-assembled the caliper (Cylinder and two bolts are moving like they should),

However It was still getting hot after I drive a short distance

This time I was even seeing smoke coming out so I consulted with some people who suggested me to change the wheel bearing & hub assembly so I did, but the disk is till heating up...

Where should I look for the issue? Already spent like 300 Euro and I still have the issue....

 

Well I took it to the mechanics and they firstly changed the discs and pads, then they told me its bearing but I refused to believe and reassembled caliper, but it didnt work so i changed bearing too… I was also told it cant be the hose because It would return a Dtc fault if it was not giving or receiving brake fluid

 

where does it shows I have a 2006 prius, I have a gen 3 2009

 

Its eastern europe, there are loads of mechanics who dont give a fk and you cant do nothing

 

Thank you for you reply.

Update: I bought a used caliper and replaced it, and guess what... the front right rotor started heating more than the front left... I am so confused now.. seriously..

I came to a conclusion that it's not the caliper issue, so I decided to return the old caliper back to the place(it's actually way better condition visually because my car only has 155000km, but I refer to it as the old one because it was here before)

I used a pole and seat to depress the brake pedal and opened the bleed valve, then closed it, did this a couple times

Now with the original caliper back in place, when I drive it doesn't get as hot as it used to, because initially at one point after driving 10km there was smoke coming out.. Now the issue doesn't seem AS BIG as it used to be, however when I touch the rotors I can hold 3seconds before my finger gets hot on the right one and only 2 seconds on the left one, so the issue is still there.

I read the internet a lot and I have Techstream 16 so I decided that I need to perform the air bleeding procedure with Techstream which I did, I had my friend to help me, I bleed every single wheel in order techstream suggested and then let Techstream bleed the air from ECB, there were 6 steps where it was beeping, every time I heard strong air pressure sound and I had to press next every time after pump sound stopped.

After air bleeding procedure was completed it seems like there is a positive change because initially I would feel a slight resistance when the car is just rolling on D(not pressing gas pedal) and now It seems that there is no such issue anymore.

However after I came back home after like 30km ( I tried to avoid breaking as much as I can, only when really necessary )
The front right disk is pretty hot(I wanna take my arm off after a couple of seconds), while the front right is only warm (I can hold my arm as long as I want without any issue)

I think it's worth to mention that initially when I noticed the problem (unusual resistance when rolling on D without pressing gas pedal) I have lifted my Front LEFT side with a jack and I couldn't move the wheel with my hands, it was almost impossible, I tried the same with Front Right and everything was fine so when the first mechanic suggested changed brake rotors and pads the front left wheel brake pads (or atleast one of them) was really worn compared to front left wheel, which is why I agreed on changing them in the first place.


At this point I am very confused on what to do next...

I will probably try to drive again and if the wheel will be hot again I'll try to lift it with a jack and spin it, if there's resistance I will then try to open the bleed valve and see if it helps to solve the dragging issue ( If I understand correctly I don't need to press the brake pedal for this test, just open the bleed valve in order to indicate if there's pressure which causes the drag?)

I was considering on changing the brake line on the left side, however the mechanic told me " There is no way it's brake line because if it would be you would receive a DTC"



Appreciate any further help because trusting mechanics is hard in city i live in, they just gamble my money by guessing on "what could be wrong" instead of diagnosing it as we see from their decisions to change brake discs, pads, bearing & hub & support

 

Interesting approach, It would be really good to see the pressure in the bleed valve, however I am really unfamiliar with such a tool called pressure transducer, where and which one to buy, let alone find the bleed-screw adapters,

I did try to find the pressure of specific cylinders in Techstream but I wasn't able to do that, I just couldnt find/understand which data parameter is that, luckily I made pictures, hopefully its good enough to read through

 

I took my car to local service who has good reputation, they said that they checked it and it seems fine, the only thing they noticed is that the caliper bushings was greased badly, a ceramical grease cannot be used for this. So they did this in the right way and told me im good to go, if the issue still persists there may be issues with abs, they didnt take any money from me.

I drove for 5km 50-90km/h, and now when I check again, my front right disk is cold and front left is hot……. the issue is still there

Is there any way to make sure and be more confident that I may need a replacement for abs and if this is 100% where the issue lays?

I am skeptical because all used ABS blocks are being sold 250€/each and they look so tired visually, given the overall condition of my car and 155k kilometerstand I am sure mine is atleast visually in better appearance maybe there is some way to clean or repair it? flush the brake liquid? any solutions to clean it if its the issue?

 

Thanks for your reply, I wanna do this test today, before that can you please clarify how to do it right?

The first time I realized about the issue I lifted the car and I couldn't move the wheel at all, so what I wanna do is get the car in the same state, I will drive like 5-20km in order to get one wheel really hot compared to other and try to lift and see if there's any resistance. If there is I will take the wheel off and try to open the bleed valve to see if air/fluid comes out and if there's a strong stream or just few drops(Can you please clarify how long I should keep the bleed valve open) just a couple seconds?