200,000 Miles Maintenance

I made a excel transalation of the Toyota USA schedule, in order to see the patterns, get the "big picture". Then, considering the the official schedule stops at 120K miles, I extrapolated it, out to 240k. Both versions attached, plus pdf conversions.

200k miles for a first EGR cleaning is VERY late in the day. The cooler will be a bear. I'd prep for head gasket replacement as well.

The PCV valve can be cleaned or replaced. Considering it's about $10 (only buy from dealership), replacement is most expedient. If you do clean and reinstall, I'd use a non-permanent thread-lock on the threads, to avoid oil bloom on the block. Torque is 15 ft/lb.

Yes. My take, the best time to replace that is around 10k miles, then maybe once more around 100k.

Maybe another brake fluid change? FWIW, while Toyota USA says nothing in the schedule, Toyota Canada recommends to do this tri-yearly or 48k kms (~30k miles). Toyota USA recommends a more in-depth brake inspection at that same intereval

Check the links in my signature, there's tips on all of the above.

The main cure for that is to replace the piston rings (and pistons), with those spec'd in thie attached service bulletin. Or spring for a new short block, which will have the revised rings/pistons. The short block's a little over two grand USD.

 

Have you tried the Valvoline restore & protect oil, to get control of the oil burn issue? A few people have stated that lowered their oil consumption, assuming the problem is stuck oil control rings. If the oil burn is related to valve seal, that won't help.

Replace the ATF; it's a quick and easy job and should be done every 100K. It'll be unrecognizable when compared to new; with 200k on the clock and well worn out.

Depending on the humidity of your area, you should have the brake fluid checked for moisture and changed if the levels are too high. Some OEM's recommend 30K-60K mile replacement intervals, but Toyota is silent on that one.

Have the hybrid battery cooling fan assembly checked and cleaned out, to keep it from overheating.

Consider installing something to monitor the ECT, since you've been able to avoid the HG issue. The overtemp lamp only displays above 245F+, when normal operating temperatures are 190F-215F.

Hope this helps......

 

The inverter coolant was due for a replacement at 150k miles, so you are overdue for that.

 

Again, Toyota USA is silent, but Toyota Canada recommends tri-yearly or ~30k miles.

Which is interesting...

 

If the cylinders walls are still cross-hatched, with little or no scuffing, and particularly if you were to DIY, just replacing the pistons and rings is a LOT cheaper. Look at the tsb I post, that ends in ...169; it outlines the procedure and lists the parts numbers.

If DIY is out of the question, it's probably wiser/cheaper to just go with a short block replacement. Even then, look for a competent independent mechanic to do it.

Oh dear...

If you ask a dealership service department to "clean the EGR system", they will:

1. Refuse, they don't do cleaning.
2. Tell you not to bother till you get cold-start shakes and/or trouble code P0401 (insufficient EGR flow)
3. Propose to change EVERYTHING, which entails intake manifold (has EGR passages), the pipe joining IM to EGR valve, and the EGR cooler.

Maybe trumping all this, with 200k and EGR never cleaned, head gasket failure is very likely, and soon.

 

10K oil change intervals are bad for engine longevity, especially in a 3rd Gen Prius with low tension oil rings.

AMD, The Car Care Nut on YouTube says 5K OCIs, or even shorter, are the way to go if you want to hold on to your car.

SM-S936U ?

 

I use a $35 P10 ECT monitor with custom alarming.



I set it for 210f-220f depending on the season. It has gone off once after I forgot to fully tighten the reservoir pressure cap. It provides audible warning (you may not see the visible warnings) before the vehicle's 248f coolant light would flash.

However the cooling system is solid and the early warning preventing anything is theoretical so far. Change coolant every 30k-50k with a simple drain and fill anybody could do.

The problem is within 10k miles you have gone from no oil burning to needing a half quart every fillup. That is a very fast onset and probably means it's serious. Back in the day, Toyota was updating pistons and rings for free if a quart every 1200 miles was consumed. The issue was low tension rings which impacted many Toyota models until mid 2014 when a production change added better pistons and rings from the factory.

You could start changing oil every 5k miles and add oil every fillup in an attempt to drive it another 50k-75k. The risk is your $2k catalytic converter (part cost) could clog. You still could experience a head gasket fail or a sudden need for an engine replacement.

Solutions?

Keep it as is, try to avoid running out of oil ("keep oil in it" - there are only 4 quarts), OR do a local shop rebuild with pistons, rings and rebuilt head (cleaned egr, intake, maybe replace water pumps).

Optionally get a dealer rebuild with a new short block OR consider a professionally rebuilt engine shipped to and installed by your shop. The pro rebuilt engine from Hybrid Pit in Socal has good feedback with several price points.

Except for the "keep oil in it" option, any of the above could cost $4k-$8k if you are lucky.

Less costly options include a salvage yard engine if you can verify it is from a 2015 hatchback or a 2015-2017 Prius v and can verify low miles based on the donor car or an attached engine vin plate.

The next step up from salvage yard is a used in Japan JDM engine which "might" be a 2010 or as new as 2021 since Japan sold the gen3 v in their market until then. The engine cost is typically around $1500, similar to the US salvage yard engine, but JDM engines are advertised as 50k-60k mile with a short warranty. They have no American style vins to check and they are shipped to big city JDM distributors already pulled. Regardless this is the low cost option I might take.

It's a tough choice that causes many to simply kick the can down the road until a failure forces the issue. Some would trade while it's still worth something as a runner.

There is a youtuber called DIY Dave that tried to fix his low tension Corolla oil burner with every additive known to man over 37 episodes. Some cleaned piston oil ports and rings very well as he demonstrated after giving up and tearing down the engine. We are waiting for the rebuild startup video as of this date

 

A partial rebuild with new pistons and rings does nothing for the cylinder walls and main bearings. Often it is done diy or by so so mechanics - not great on a close tolerance aluminum engine. Some would not send the head out for testing and rebuild. Can work but I would hesitate to do this on a block burning a quart every 800 miles because it might still burn oil.

A new short block is all new except for the head and accessories. This is the dealer way that is "so so mechanic" friendly with very good results. It won't have a chance to burn oil or blow a hg for 150k - which allows dealers to guarantee their work. Dealer mechanics have to do it over again for free if their work fails. So they don't take chances. It's the most expensive by far.

Used engines, especially JDMs seem more reasonable in a car worth maybe $5k if it's good.

Old hybrids are not made bulletproof with a great engine. Hybrid battery and brake boosters can be $5k combined. Maybe your brake booster will make it to the 350k finish line. Normal vehicle maintenance like suspension, brakes, wheel bearings, 12v batteries, water pumps, ac etc are still possible and some can repeat as you go for long distance records.

Even finding a good hybrid mechanic outside of the dealer is tough in some areas. If you have one use him for the small stuff before you need the big guns.

 

2012-19 Prius c 1.5L Smallest Prius


2012-17 Prius v 1.8L Largest Prius


2010-15 Prius (Hatchback) 1.8L

A 2010-15 Prius Hatchback and a 2012-17 Prius v use the same gen3 engines. 2015 Prius hatchbacks and 2015-17 Prius v models have the revised pistons and rings. Some 2014s were also revised and can be identified by the vin used in the US models.

A Prius c is smaller and has a different 1.5L engine. It is not compatible.

JDM engines don't come with an identified year but simply fit in the range of Prius and Prius v years above.

If an engine claims to be a certain year it probably came from a US salvage yard and is not a JDM used in Japan engine.

Many salvage yard and online sellers don't know much as well and often misrepresent the source, mileage and condition of their engines.

I would not buy a JDM engine on ebay or online. I would not buy one until you had an installer lined up.

The smart move for a guy in Kansas City is to personally visit every distributor and ask questions including recommended shops to install a JDM engine. I would have the installer inspect the engine before purchase.

 

All the components have to come off one by one.

 

You can do the intake manifold side a separate day. See the top 2 links in my signature*, there link to @NutzAboutBolts video compilation thread; their EGR cleaning video is very thorough.

also, I’ve done a rough workflow here, not including the intake manifold side of the process:

Professional EGR Cleaning Resources | Page 9 | PriusChat

and any other questions, ask away.

* (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures)

 

Look in the aforementioned links (top two links in my signature). There's Repair Manual excerpts with the torque values. Some are quite low, the studs in particular.

The second EGR goes into strategies more. Like pre-draining a couple of liters of coolant to avoid any spillage (if you're not doing a coolant change at same time). Also, there are things you can do in prep, remove one fastener in particular, and remove/lube/reinstall a few more. This makes the "big day" a little easier.

Another, the EGR cooler is the bear to clean. You want to prioritize getting that out and soaking with your chosen cleaner. Most efficient method is to cork the smaller end hole, pour in cleaner solution, let it sit about an hour (say propped up in corner of laundry sink), rinse and repeat as needed. With your miles I'd recommend a near-concentrated lye solution (NaOH, sodium hydroxide IIRC). You may need to run a wire through too, mechanically open up the passages some. Use extreme caution with the lye. More info in the second link.

Spark plug info from repair manual attached. Most everything about the spark plugs is in one repair manual section, except the torque. That I found about a 1000 pages away, in the valve cover section.

Also, watch @NutzAboutBolts spark plug video. First link in my signature has link to their Prius video compilation, and spark plug change is in there (maybe video #13). It's a LOT of wrenching, just to get access, very frustrating. All due to the steeply raked windshield, and coils that bump on the underside of that windshield nonsense, about 1/2" sooner than you'd need, to get them out.

Note, the video says to use 20 ft/lbs, after he liberally applies anti-seize. Repair Manual says 15, with no mention of lube, so presumably clean/dry threads.