Car Shutters on Deceleration around 37-38 MPH

Injectors, are they OEM ? Also any code ?

 

I hope you used all original OEM parts when you replaced plugs, coils, injectors, maf sensor, o2 sensors, etc. If you used an aftermarket part, any one of those could cause the problems you're experiencing.

 

The sensors, in particular, use OEM or same level. Cheap ebay/online made in China parts wont work. They even pack it in boxes looks like genuine. Most of the time, they don't work out of box or stops working after few days.

For my Odyssey, I got burned once from an ebay vendor with spark plugs which came in Honda labelled packing. All fake and i was lucky to check it after 3k miles. It was almost ready to disintegrate and on my bmw, the cam sensor, the cheap one threw code immediately. Not worth wasting time trying with these.

 

The throttle body, i guess it can do it if stuck or sensor not reading position properly. No error codes? Can you try with a proper scan tool? flashing traction light may set a code in the module.

I didn't had to do it when i replaced the throttle body, but wonder if it needs relearn like other cars. Also all vacuum / air lines are connected?

 

Lets check it after O2 sensor replacement . Any difference in the behavior if you unplug the O2 sensor?

 

Maybe check at least your front tone rings cleanliness and wires in good shape eratic signal from tone rings missing squares or severely clogged w debris

 

Can you please be more descriptive about what the "shuttering" is that you're experiencing? I just looked up the defnition of this word and kinda know what you're saying but that's not a very descriptive word for this symptom?

I see this problem on here sometimes... People obsessed with replacing parts that never needed replacing tend to be hyper sensitive to tiny noises and vibrations or as you say "shuttering" when in reality you car is near 19 years and is going to have all kinds of weird creeks and groans and old worn out car funk going on.

Point being, Prius are super reliable and you're wasting time and money on all these unnecessary details and expenses. Just enjoy your life and your old car and wait for warning lights or obvious symptoms before thinking there's something wrong with your car because it's old.

 

I always try to avoid replacing/cleaning fuel injectors as much as possible because all kinds of additional problems tend to happen. If I were you I'd do a Google or DuckDuckGo search on "PriusChat posts fuel injectors P0172"

 

In other words, "I hope you have unquestionable obedience to the delusional cult of OEM so you spend 5 times the price on every part your car needs even though near identical aftermarket parts, as well as used parts cost pennies on the dollar."

 

My experience with that particular shuddering is when the hybrid vehicle battery starts to get low in capacity. A cycle of charging/discharging to balance the pack can fix it.

 

I see you have always have this stance on OEM parts. I've used these aftermarket parts before, therefore I can say with experience that they are inferior.

Labor is not free, when you replace parts over and over again, the labor cost can be extremely high. A quality part doesn't require replacement as often. Inverter pumps that you talk about a lot from ebay for $20 will last 2 years at most, while an oem part cost 5x as much but will last 8 years or more.

Quality parts engineered to last, like in all new Toyota cars from the factory, will outlast any cheap aftermarket part. There is a reason these Toyota cars require almost no replacement parts for the first 100k miles.

 

In this sense, I think you mean shudder.

 

I'm glad replacing these parts with a quality part fixed the problem. Many times when you use inferior parts, new but at a lower price, can often create problems you didn't originally have. So if you want to keep your car running good, use only OEM parts on critical parts (all the ones you replaced)