Codes P3190, P3191 after replacing EGR cooler, egr switch, intake manifold

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by FrugalBeeotch, Oct 24, 2025 at 11:40 PM.

  1. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    I spent 9 hours replacing the egr system and the intake manifold. When I started the car, it said there's a problem with the hybrid system, and threw P3190 and P3191.

    Any idea what I did? I'm a little deflated. I thought I could do this. I clearly made a mistake.

    I left it at the diy garage overnight.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The codes are less specific than you probably hope: they're telling you the engine didn't start. (P3190 means it produced less than a fifth of the torque expected, i.e. didn't run well at all, and P3191 means that happened while trying to start it.)

    The problem could easily be something quite simple. An obvious way to start is by double-checking that you've reconnected everything that had to get disconnected to do the job.
     
  3. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    Yeah. I did some of that last night before the shop closed. I'm going back this morning. Maybe fresh eyes will help me spot the problem.
     
  4. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    I had left a vacuum hose disconnected. I fixed that, but it's still throwing the codes.
     
  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Does the engine run for more than 30 seconds when you start the car?
     
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Clear the codes, and start again...
    How is it running? Smooth or rough?


     
  7. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    It wasn't before I connected the vacuum hose. Then it ran until the hybrid battery was sufficiently charged, and when it shut off the engine it sputtered briefly until the engine was off.
     
  8. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    It runs smoothly until I need to stop, then sometimes it sputters to a stop. When I was pulling in the driveway, it sputtered hard. No check engine light or error codes.
     
  9. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You should recheck everything, slowly. If it was running okay before the work, and not after,
    something is not connected correctly.
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Did you replace everything? With new or used" Definitely hang onto everything removed.
     
  11. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    I bought a used cooler from eBay. The valve was new from Toyota, as was the intake manifold.
     
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  12. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    Update:
    I was going through the box of detritus from the replacement work and I noticed there was a gasket still new in the packaging. I know that is not a reusable part, and I found the old one in the box as well.

    I installed that, and took it for a test drive. The rough sputtering stops are gone, but the check engine light is on again. It drives well, but periodically it revs the engine very high when the electric motor is engaged or when the car is stopped. Despite the engine revving up, the hybrid battery isn't being charged.

    I looked up the codes, but I don't remember the specific codes. Perhaps one was 107. I do recall the codes were about MAF or maybe MAP sensors.

    I asked Claude what could be the problem, and he said I should reset the sensors to the default settings by disconnecting the 12v battery in the trunk. He said it will run like crap for a few minutes, but the system will adapt quickly to the new normal and should start working again.

    I vaguely recall seeing similar recommendations on this forum, and I even saw him scouring a thread on this forum while he was "thinking".

    I mention this because I know a lot of forums block AI for sucking down bandwidth and stealing data for training. In this instance, it did lead a legitimate user to the thread in question. I'm certainly glad this forum hasn't blocked Claude when he's helping troubleshoot a problem. I don't blame webmasters for blocking the wasteful training indexes, but it has been very helpful as a Claude user. Since Claude makes mistakes, I wanted to ask the biological collective your opinions.
     
  13. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    0102 and 0113 were the codes from last night. I asked Claude, and he thinks there's a problem with the connector coming from the air intake box. I did have to take that off repeatedly during my troubleshooting. I'll check the connector when everyone is awake. I can't venture into the garage without waking my partner.

    Am I on the right track? I appreciate all your advice. I know I've made some newbie mistakes. I am sort of a newbie. Until recently, I didn't dare do more than an oil change and swapping a damaged bumper.
     
  14. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Codes P0102 and P0113 are about the MAF sensor and intake air temperature sensor. They are on the same connector. You probably did not connect the connector completely or forgot to connect it. Very common issue when you have removed the air box and put it back on. The connection is easily visible at the MAF sensor located at the top of the air box towards the engine.
     
  15. indel

    indel Junior Member

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    I bet this solves the problem. Fingers crossed.
     
  16. FrugalBeeotch

    FrugalBeeotch Junior Member

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    I did connect it, but I manhandled it a few times. I probably broke it, or maybe bent some pins. I'll check. Thanks for your help.