Has anyone had these odd electrical symptoms? 12V battery keeps shorting out each use

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by pmelc1, Oct 29, 2025 at 4:53 PM.

  1. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    Having odd symptoms. Initially, car would keep the flashing red dash light on some of the time (e.g. normal function), and then go completely black other times. Often, I would press the start button and feel a 'pump back' / slight pop on the brake people, and there would be a click and dash would go black.

    Occasionally the car would regain electricity randomly (e.g. upon opening the door) and radio will come on, and sometimes car will even go into gear without key inserted, as if it was never shut off.

    Lately though, it goes fully black every time I turn it off, and I have to jump it with each use. It takes no juice to start, just seems like it's bypassing / overriding some kind of short/electrical misfire.

    Bad fuse block on 12V battery terminal? It's pretty old and beat up / been moved around a lot over the years. Battery terminals are on tight so no issue there. Some brake-related issue?
     
  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Do you have a volt meter? If so, use it to measure the voltage of the 12v battery.
     
  3. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    12V battery is fine because takes almost no juice out of the box to start it, and before when the issue was intermittent, it would always come back at full charge. I'm sure that it's some kind of short or circuit interruption.
     
  4. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    After you jump it the 12v battery does not have to supply any current. The car is supplied 12v by the inverter converter taking high voltage and converting it to 12v.

    Since a jump Readies the car, the connection from the jump to the electronics is fine.

    The optimum test for excessive parasitic draw is an ammeter in series with the negative battery terminal.

    However I would take it out and have it load tested at an auto parts store. 98% of the time cars with your symptoms turn out to be the 12v battery.

    A voltmeter test is not good enough since a bad connection inside the battery can supply the micro amps need by the meter.
     
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  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    The way to diagnose something is to do some testing, not by assuming that something is good. You apparently do not want help with the problem since you dismissed the first thing that should be done in your situation. Good luck with your car.
     
  6. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    You have a complete misunderstanding of how the Gen 2 Prius works. The 12v battery does not provide ANY "juice" to actually start the engine. The 12v battery merely supplies the power needed to start up the electronics, Once the electronics determines it's ok to do so, the main relays in the hybrid battery are closed and the hybrid battery is placed online. It's the hybrid battery that supplies power to the transaxle to spin the engine for starting (there is no 'starter motor').

    Take it or leave it, the advice you were given is sound, because it sounds like your "box" is powering up the electronics, which is allowing them to do their job, and then once the hybrid battery is online, the inverter takes over, similar to an alternator on an ICE car.
     
  7. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    I've had the car for 13 years and 300k miles, and there are no symptoms of a dead or dying battery / of parasitic draw, and the Toyota battery is less than a year old. I have a spare battery and will swap it in, but I doubt it will solve the problem. Never during the time in question has the car displayed signs of low charge or parasitic draw.

    I explained that the 12V would 'reactivate' / 'wake up' with full charge constantly, when the car was just sitting there. It could even be driven without a key. I also have Dr. Prius and all the voltage readings have been normal when the car is running. There is something interfering with the battery / 12V system's ability to start the car, not with the battery's charge.

    I understand that the vast majority of cases are 12V battery problems. I came here looking for other possibilities because I really don't believe that's the issue, at least not with regards to the battery's ability to hold a charge or it being drawn down. Could be that there's some defect in the battery.

    I do know for a fact that the positive-terminal fusible link block has seen way more abuse and wear and tear than normal (due to loose terminals in the past), and that that (even if rarely) can cause the symptoms I've described, and it's 20 years old with 300k hard miles. Was looking to explore than angle more / other rare issues.
     
    #7 pmelc1, Oct 29, 2025 at 8:12 PM
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2025 at 8:22 PM
  8. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    How hard is it to connect a volt meter to the 12v battery and take a measurement?

    Like they say, you can lead a horse to water, but you can not make it drink!
     
    #8 Brian1954, Oct 29, 2025 at 8:21 PM
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2025 at 8:27 PM
  9. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    You have led me to no water, just tested at 12.6V
     
  10. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    You passed the first test. Now, turn on the headlights and measure the battery.
     
  11. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Take apart, clean and inspect all the connections around the 12v and make sure you have a healthy fully charged 12v. This is a known problem with Gen2 Prius where loose connections back there leads to an abnormal shut down sequence. You know you solved it when shutdown sequence shows the gear shift indicator lights as the last thing to turn off on the speedometer screen (aka: combination meter).
     
  12. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    I can't do that without jumping the car, because even at 12.6V the car will not start. Dash is totally black and dead. It is not a charge issue; it's possible there's some kind of defect with internal battery connections. But not a charge or draw issue.
     
  13. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    There is more to the 12v system than just the battery. The (-) ground cable. The (+) cable connecting the battery and at the fusebox. The clamps, etc. It's not difficult to put a meter on the cable connection in the underhood fusebox and monitor the 12v voltage while trying to start the car. You just need to follow a structured, logical troubleshooting procedure. You KNOW everything works with a jump pack, so it's likely everything downstream of the jump pack connection is ok. It could be something as silly as the terminal clamps being too high up on the posts or just an internal battery failure. Where are you connecting the jump pack?
     
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  14. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    There is no sequence at all; it's instant-off of everything in the car upon touching the power button.
     
  15. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    You do not need to start the car to turn on the headlights.
     
  16. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Correct, it's not a charge issue, but 12.6 volts is too low. Put your battery on a high amp smart charger.
     
  17. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    yes, that's problem you can fix by looking at all the connections around the 12v.
     
  18. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    Connecting the jump pack on lug/tab in fuse box under hood, with negative grounded to chassis. Everything is tight and looks fully normal and clean with rear terminals. Battery less than a year old.

    There's really no trying to start it per se because the whole car is dead as doornail and does not respond to stimuli, until the pack is connected. Without that it does nothing. But battery does have normal charge which knew but just confirmed with voltmeter.
     
  19. pmelc1

    pmelc1 Junior Member

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    It's 13.9V when running and 12.6V resting, my understanding is that is fully in normal range.
     
  20. Hayslayer

    Hayslayer Member

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    Which is exactly how a battery with an internal failure or bad mechanical connection can act. When there is no current flow, full voltage can be read at any point where the battery is connected. As soon as any current flow tries to initiate, the open circuit/bad connection can cause a full drop of voltage across that connection, resulting in no voltage available for anything else. That's a bit simplified, but should be understandable.

    Have you tried pressing the power button with your foot NOT on the brake?
     
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