Any definitive how-to's on complete coolant flush/refill using vacuum refill device?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Collie, Nov 16, 2025 at 9:02 PM.

  1. Collie

    Collie Junior Member

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    Watched every video you can find on YouTube and everyone skips details and/or steps and has a differing way of doing it.

    Has anyone came across a definitive video on using a vacuum refill kit to refill both coolant systems?

    Some members and Toyota Techs say that the inverter can't handle more than a 5 PSI vacuum pull whilst others have the "I've never had a problem before" mentality and "Send it"

    A few also say you have to close the AC valves while 90% of the other videos don't mention they even exist.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Noop it only take 45 min approx to do both just standing here 60 dollars richer without the toy . The steps you think they're not showing you when you hook up the vacuum line and the nonsense and start the business you'll see why they didn't bother showing you that because well. It's just one of those things people do when they're filming things. The inverters to 3 minute job you won't need anything gravity does all the work for the most part literally. I've never seen that messed up unless they had a hose disconnected for some reason
     
  3. Albert Barbuto

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  4. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    I have the UView.

    The unit works perfectly on the radiator cooling system.

    The inverter cooling system is simple. It is a simple straightforward drain and fill. No need to use any vacuum refill system.

    One thing I did was to replace the stiff vinyl coil set hose that kept on leaving the intake and allowing air to ruin the fill with ultraflexible silicone hoses.
     
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  5. Collie

    Collie Junior Member

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    You might want to double check your procedure, your car has several air bleeder valves and Toyota techs do utilize them when doing this job.

    I know most people say "well I've never had a problem before" but you just never know if you would of got another 40,000 miles out of the life of your car by worrying about the details. To each their own though and thank you for the reply! :)
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes I know where all of those bleeder thingies are no problem they're rather hard to access on drain and refill. So 8 just slow it down . I've got plenty to do while this is going on so no. Problem at all . It's rarely done here unless there's been an accident or something sprung a leak most of my 400K cars have most of their original coolant still in em it tests just fine.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wouldn't suggest anyone disregard the procedure in the repair manual.

    I would suggest the procedure in the repair manual is good enough not to need a lot of 'improvement'.
     
  8. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I did it that way too, with minor changes. There were about two quarts of air trapped in the CHS tank. That burped out easily with the "short the relay socket" trick. (Run pump 5 secs, bubbles for a minute, repeat until no more bubbles.) Mystery to me why AB's fill didn't do that and mine did. After that air was out just a couple of small bubbles while running in inspection mode with the heat on and a funnel in the radiator fill tube. Drove it one day and the next morning level went down slightly (50 ml?), topped off. Drove it a second day and the next morning level had not changed. Never touched the bleed valve on the radiator but did squeeze the radiator hoses. The total fluid measured in and out (by weight) and after the final top off was about 40 ml more in than out, but there were some small spills, so very very close to same amount in as out.

    Using an AirLift on the inverter loop is overkill. Drain it, fill it, run a tube from the bleed valve to the tank, open the bleed valve, turn on the car, wait for the bubbles to stop, top off if needed, close the bleed valve, turn off car, thoroughly mop up any spills (so any new pink deposits from a leak or drip will not be confused with an old spill.)