About to replace by Rear calipers on my 2010, do I need to disable ABS?

It's as easy as disconnecting 12v battery because the brake booster pump runs even when the car is turned off. But more importantly why do you think your "calipers are starting to go?" They aren't exactly a wear and tear part? Is it perhaps because they're making creaking sounds? Because I had that problem and when I replaced my original brake pads at 287K miles I simply greased the pins the calipers move on and problem solved, no need to do anything else.

 

Agree with @PriusCamper. Unless the calipers are fully rusted and disintegrating because you live in extreme climate, you should not need to replace them. Replace the pads, and lube the pins. Use silicone based lubricant only, on the pins, such as the NAPA Sil-Glyde (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651351?srsltid=AfmBOopHcuknQ1YHOHlm3P9UfWQzlJQDDWASPQO_BqubbyFyPFnVDtTJ)

Edit: Of course, you might find that the rubber boots on the calipers are worn/leaking. At that point it's a tossup between rebuilding the caliper vs buying a new one. Nine out of ten times, I replace the caliper when this happens.

 

That could happen on the REAR calipers. But it's NOT the abs.
If you open the drivers door, the brakes will pump up the fluid and push the pucks out.

Just don't open the door while working on the rear brakes.

Unless the pistons/pucks, are frozen, there is NO reason to replace them.

 

Calipers leak when the rubber boot that holds the hydraulic fluid in the system deteriorates or somehow breaks. At that point, the caliper should be rebuilt. Part stores will sell kits to repair the boot. It's an inexpensive repair but requires some skill. The other option is to just replace the caliper. Your local part store will want your old caliper back if you buy a remanufactured one, as a core return. I prefer ordering them online where I don't have to return the old one.

 

If they are leaking, that's different. Usually they leak because the fluid hasn't been flushed and
replaced with new fluid.
It would be better to get a rebuild kit from Toyota. Or if you want new calipers, get them from Toyota.
Many have had issues with aftermarket ones.

 

I’d still want the negative cable disconnected, just because it’s too dang easy to forget.

I’d second the question: what exactly does “starting to go” mean?

not sure how you’d even disable the ABS.

The rear brake drag link in my signature might be helpful, also it has the repair manual brake info attached. (On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures)