Looking for a jump pack

Don't know how handy you are but if you have a DVM, you can just make a 24 inch extension ground wire.
1. set your DVM for volts DC and connect it to your under hood jump point.
2. start touching bolts in the area, your looking for a solid 12VDC - that's a good ground point.
3. crimp a solder-less eyes that will fit that bolt on both ends. 24 inch 00 wire should do it, preferably black insulation.
4. remove bolt and install one side of wire. When finished retest for 12V on the other end of the wire.
5. That will be your ground clamp point for your jump pack. Just wrap it up and tuck it somewhere until needed.

Like the boy scout model; always be prepared.
DnxnIaIfy Jump Starter,8000A Portable Car Battery Jump Starter with Air Compressor,60000MAH Battery Jump Box Car Starter,12VBattery Booster Pack with 150PSI Digital Tire Inflator - Walmart.com

I just found this on a quick search - NOT really recommending it - I've got two big old ones with handles that I've replaced the large battery within each of them. That's how old they are, but they still work. I just toss one of them in my trunk on road trips - around town there's friends, ride share, and AAA.

Hope this helps....

PS; the 2026 Prius doesn't contain ANY flat tire recovery system - other than that slime kit. NO tools, jack, or tire iron. Depending on your skill level, you may want to preplan for that emergency - since these newer LLR tires are much thinner than 'normal' tires that take more of a beating. Got more flats combined on my 21 Prime than all other cars I've driven in the past 40 years. Took a small mpg hit and replace them with real tires around 30K miles. Pulled another nail out on my last rotation that didn't penetrate my new shoes.

 

i did the same thing. bought a jump pack and thinking about compressor. make sure you get one with a dead battery override

 

Yep, there's usually instructions on how to over-ride the battery safety checks to shunt power to your system on a fully dead battery - BUT who reads instruction, that's for nerds not the kool kids.
My stuff is so old - there's NO safety checks, not stupid proof. BUT they WORK. I may FRY something in the process if I hadn't had my morning coffee.

 

why longer cables? i have a noco with short cables. once you've uncovered the battery or jump point, it doesn't matter. (to me)

 

i wonder if this has the same connector as the noco jump cable?noco-gc004
and how much juice you would lose through it.

 

i'm not sure the preferred ground is important

 

i just check all the bare metal with a volt meter

 

I bought myself a Dewalt jump pack, and replaced the alligator clips with 12V male plug. This way, I can jump my battery from the driver's seat without having to go under the hood. I wired in a live 12V socket, which is necessary for this to work.

 

Not those small portable ones.
The larger Sam's n Costco ones has longer cables - you'll need to decide between compact vs convenience.
Free Shipping! Ever Start Maxx 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with 120 PSI Compressor USB Charger and LED Light - Walmart.com

 

the battery is grounded to the body. most of the car is part of that. any bare metal under the hood will get back to the 12v negative post.
you can check it by putting a volt meter on the jump post, and any metal close enough for the jump pack clips to connect to.

 

Yep; re-read my post #2. Positive probe on the jump point; negative probe on the suspected ground point. Your NOT looking for continuity, your looking to complete the circuit and get a 12VDC reading or whatever your current battery reading is.

 

Are they Clore JNC660's by any chance. Mine has a so-so battery; from Amazon.ca I can purchase a complete replacement jump pack for $210 CDN, or replace just the battery, for $270...



I want to do the latter, but figure I'd need my head examined.

 

I tend to frown on people who's first impulse is to replace.
Sometimes it's a simple repair.

 

I got my batteries from work. They came out of life support equipment due to mandatory replacement cycle. I cycled them through our battery tester and set a 85% min. spec.. They're specifications was 30% better than the same packaged older battery I replaced.
One is a Stanly Fatmaxx n the other is a no-name jump pack, both has tire inflators.

Don't know, lots of plastic in new cars - those points are probably guaranteed to be grounded. You never know if another engineering department makes a change and breaks the ground loop.
When I installed my water softener, the connections are plastic; so I bridged the copper lines to ensure continuity. New builds now has PEX, so you can no longer ground to your copper.