2008 Gen2 171k miles. Battery is supposedly in " great shape " but never replaced. ICE starts and runs for around 45 seconds after car is put in reverse. This is after only 5 seconds of backing up on level ground without A/C or other loads like lighting . 6 battery bars are displayed on the screen. ( But this may have been after that 45 second run - I can't recall ) Temperature is 68 degrees F., and car was last driven around 4 days ago on a 130 mile trip. I also notice that after taking that 130 mile trip, I pull into my apartments and the ICE is on while I am only driving 12 miles per hour on level ground. A/C was off. The ICE also comes on even while going down hill. ( screen shows the ICE on and giving charge ) Is the engine actually on, or just 'pumping air' to keep the MG1/2 from over revving ? I asked ChatGPT, and it says this is normal, since the ICE runs to prime everything . Why does it still come on if there is plenty of charge in the battery ? The car is getting the expected mileage. ~ 48 MPG at 60 mph. Around town it is getting 60 mpg. A mechanic that has been very honest in the past says the battery health is "great" So what do you all think ? Surely the battery must have some bad cells after 18 years. I plan to get an OBD reader to check. Any recommendations? Thanks
All three of those things can happen. If the display shows it sending charge to the battery, that's probably what it's doing. When it pumps air for the resistance of it, that's to hold your car speed down, as can happen when you're going down a hill and the battery has too much charge to accept regen braking, or you have shifted to B. MG2's RPM is always locked to one ratio to the wheels, so there's never a risk of MG2 overrevving without the car going crazy fast (> 100 MPH). MG1 can overrev at lower car speeds, depending on the engine RPM, so sometimes the engine runs to prevent that. It isn't used as a high-resistance air pump then, but just to sort of loaf around at the needed RPM, neither adding nor subtracting more torque than necessary. In general, unless you really want to delve into details and become obsessive over it, "just enjoy driving your car" is really pretty good advice. It has a lot of different things it does for different reasons, and it knows all those reasons so you don't have to, and it really all works pretty well. If the car gets old enough, it probably will eventually tell you that the battery's worn out, and it will likely be right, and there are choices for crossing that bridge when it comes. I've seen efforts to try to estimate "remaining battery life" and predict when that moment's going to come, but I'm not sure how well they really work.
all 3 of mine did, and our hybrid camrys as well. can't get all the way out of the garage without the engine starting, and they were all purchased new.
It is very possible a 2008 could have a "rebuilt" cheap (mix and match used modules) replacement hv battery already - but a few 2008s are still original. If someone did use a "rebuilt" those batteries often get weak in a year of less. A new oem set of modules easily last 10-15 years. An obd2 reader won't tell you much even if you buy the upgraded Dr Prius app. Even a Toyota Techstream scanner is not definitive on a car without codes. Most cheap scanners can't even read hybrid codes although the Dr Prius app can read hybrid battery codes. While not totally relevant, reverse is only electric propulsion. The Ice engine has to warm up anytime it is cold regardless of hv battery state. A good battery and a warmed engine can stay off during a traffic light; a worn battery may not have much capacity left and quickly discharges. Capacity is different from voltage; voltage can be high but discharges fast; that is a worn battery. It does not means replacement is imminent especially without battery codes. No hybrid battery codes yet? Just drive it daily and save your money in a repair fund.
There are several G3 Prius at my apartments, and I notice they are almost always driving without the ICE. They are not the plug in variety. I notice the G2 car I am driving almost always is in ICE at the same speed and locations that they are. Why ? I notice that I am only using EV for spurts of at most two to three seconds even on downhill areas at speeds of 10 mph or even less, while these G3 are able to stay in EV the entire drive around the complex at much higher speed. 2008 Prius with 173,000 miles. Battery icon shows 4 bars at startup.
Different programming and utilization profiles. European Prius stay in EV mode longer and beat-up their batteries more than here in the states, where gas is much cheaper. It's no accident that newer generation Prius are faster and more efficient that older models.... YMMV
First, the ICE operation is faster after startup when heat is being requested. However if it won't stay in ev going downhill when warmed up or won't stay off for a 2 minute stop light when warmed up, its a sign of low battery capacity, eg a weak hv battery.