Basically, where I live the past week along with the snow its been really cold at night (up to -10). Last year my 12V became frozen so took it out a couple of times and kept it inside overnight. As you knkow, the battery is in the back in a very tight space that you kinda have to contort the battery out to remove it. Well, I've been removing the battery every night the past week and finally it came back to bite me because the positive-cable (+) going into the little white connector twisted and snapped. I guess my options are to trim the positive cable and then figure out a way to reattach it. However before I start on this I'd like to know if there is any workaround. Maybe connect another cable to the end of the existing broken cable or something else. there isn't much room to work with with as the cable is pretty short already. Thanks.
Don't know about workarounds this is the one that plugs into the black plastic the white plug that goes into the black plastic on positive block ? I should be able to send you that whole piece . Just wrecked a great car a few weeks ago everything's pristine in it . If your wire is good what I send ya you can just pop insert out of white plug insert yours plug in !
I'm thinking about not having the 12V battery sink down into that nook but rather sit on top of trunk compartment tbh. toyota put the battery in a very odd place and yes I understand I am overreacting re: a fix because the real fault is that I've taken it out dozens of times (unlike a normal person) and it finally broke.
problem with this solution is there is very little stretch left on positive cable. thats why I was thinking maybe there is a workaround. I think i might have to give your suggestion at least a shot and then eventually replace the cable/housing outright.
DANG! it looks like this is the complete wiring harness. the other end MIGHT just clip onto another white clip thing before it attaches to the longer wire. Really don't feel like working out in the cold but oh well. HOPEFULLY, otherwise looks like I have to figure out a workaround. will update later for future reference.
if that doesn't work, a hardware store/auto parts/electronics/internet should have something to extend the cable. or salvage yard where you could cut the cable on a wreck and attach it to yours. this cold is brutal, all the best!
Looks like I might have to figure out how to get extend the existing positive cable into this white clip. Seems as though the wires are welded into the clip because I can't pull it out with either needlenose pliers or trying to scrape it out with a flathead screwdriver. Any ideas on how to remove this wiring remnant? Can anyone tell me where the "fat cable" I need is on the wiring harness? It might not be the one I thought it was as I went outside and searched for it and can't find a white-clip immediately. also thinking of trying to find the other end of the positive cable clip so i can at least pull one from anotehr car if need be. Not to mention much easier if it only needs a short length until another clip. which white clip on here hooks up to the positive battery-cable black housing above??? Kinda like solving a puzzle to find it. i think its the circled area cable but not sure.... 2007 Prius floor harness.... closer picture:
Next time disconnect the negative cable or better yet buy a jump box and forhet about disconnecting the battery.
He needs to bring the 12 V inside to prevent it from freezing in the current polar conditions at his locale. A jump box aint gonna fix that.
Usually, he 'canonical' repair when a wire breaks out of a connector like that starts with looking that connector up in the wiring diagram, as you see in this example and this one (which are looking up a different connector, of course). That gives you the Toyota part numbers of: the plastic housing, a 'repair wire' that already ends in the right metal terminal, and a crimp sleeve of the proper size to attach the repair wire to the end of your existing wire. The diagram will also have a picture showing how to release the old broken-off terminal out of the plastic housing, so you can clip the new one in. (So, the part number of the plastic housing itself you don't usually need, you just reuse the one you've got. Sometimes people do break the plastic housings, though.) It's possible, though, that Toyota doesn't list a repair wire or crimp sleeve for this particular connection (I haven't tried looking it up just now, but I'm having some déjà vu about it), because it is a thicker wire than they expect you to be equipped to repair. I would then head for a salvage yard to find a car that still has that wire so I could hack off the last foot or so, and then I'd go straight to my neighborhood independent auto electrical shop. They do have the big-@ss crimp tools right there to splice that back on the existing wire, and they'd have it done in a couple minutes and not charge me much. That's a pretty thick sturdy copper wire. But I've seen at least one other thread here where it got weakened by corrosion and broke off there. I'm guessing if the OP broke it off by unplugging and replugging, it might have been about to cause some trouble anyway. That said, you do want to be careful not to put a lot of repeated bending on the copper right where it goes into the terminal. When unplugging/replugging, it's better to spread the flexing over as great a length of wire as you can. Might be tricky with that one, as there might be a harness clip or tape immobilizing that wire not very far back from that connector.
i was thinking of getting another cable then not exactly crimping the wires together but jamming them together (broken connector and new cable) then heavily applying electrical tape to secure the link. the reason for this is because it would now partially be a "break-a-way" connector. Too much twisting and it would come apart. I imagine I'll have to remove the battery again due to cold. The weather temperature will be highs 20-25 and lows 3-15 for the rest of the week. Is this a good idea or does that cable specifically need to be crimped to ensure adequate power supply? thanks.
That cable can carry tens of amps routinely and is fused for over a hundred. "Jam together and tape" is no kind of splice method for that; if it worked for any time at all, it would be a fire waiting to happen.
