Head Gasket Replacement Shop Recommendations- San Francisco Bay Area

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by davekro, Feb 4, 2026 at 4:26 AM.

  1. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    I've been watching the Gen 3 Head Gasket replacement videos by Gasket Masters and NutsAboutBoltz. Initially, I was gung-ho about taking this project on. But now I want to look into what it might cost if done by a reputable SF Bay Area mechanic or shop. I'd like to hear from any fellow SF Bay Area PriusChat members who have had this work done by someone they would recommend. Has anyone in the area had Gasket Masters replace their head gasket? Other mechanic or shop?

    I don't see people here usually saying how much they pay for service, etc. Maybe it is frowned upon? If It is OK to share cost info via private message via this site, that would be good to. If anyone has recommendations for a person or shop in the area, I could call for an estimate as well. I'm probably not willing to pay dealership prices, but I would be curious of that scary price tag.
    Thanks in advance.
    Dave
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    You will find most dealers recommend against a simple gasket change on these engines because of frequent failures resulting in warranty problems. Problems that can only be solved with a replacement engine or rebuild. Complications like oil burning, prior overheating, bent connecting rods or warped surfaces can cause issues beyond a gasket.

    I would call Gasketmasters. While its not always a simple gasket swap, they should be able to judge the level of repair needed. They have done more repairs on gen3 head gasket failures than the dealers in your area.

    I would guess a head gasket job should run $2k-$3k, a used JDM engine installed for $2.5k-$3k, a Hybrid Pit rebuilt installed around $3.5k-$4.5k or a dealer/pro shop rebuild with a new short block around $8k. I would never recommend a US salvage yard engine.
     
    #2 rjparker, Feb 4, 2026 at 7:40 AM
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2026 at 3:24 PM
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  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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  4. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    IMHO; I'd probably stick with GasketMasters. I'm pretty sure part of the service is they clean out your EGR system too. Don't know if they replace the electronic water pump; but I would do that while they're in there. Cheap insurance for another 100K miles of service. When I use to do timing belts; I'd replace everything - NOT just the belt. All you need is an oil or coolant leak, or a seized-up idler bearing to undo all that work; just to save $100 in parts. It's all right there; easy to get to OR you can gamble that it'll last another 100K miles of abuse.
    It's funny sometimes when a customer will bring in a cheap-0 timing belt, when I'm charging him $800 labor to put it in. I make sure I dot my eyes and cross my tee's and makes sure he initials that this is a NO WARRANTY job, Only a tail light warranty that it was done correctly and if the part fails and blows up the engine - It's on him.

    Good Luck....
     
    #4 BiomedO1, Feb 4, 2026 at 2:14 PM
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2026 at 2:19 PM
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Copied-and-pasted (and unanswered) questions I asked in your last thread on this topic:

    Has the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation system ever been cleaned?

    Is engine coolant level stable in the reservoir?

    Any cold-start shakes?

    New question:

    How's the oil consumption?
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    From Mendel Leisk above

    Has the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation system ever been cleaned?
    Not likely when the plugs have not been changed


    Is engine coolant level stable in the reservoir?

    Any cold-start shakes?
    A shop diagnosis is a good idea
     
    #6 rjparker, Feb 4, 2026 at 3:31 PM
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2026 at 3:41 PM
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  7. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Thanks for the ballpark costs of the different options! I am still in the diagnostics phase, but so far head gasket seems likely. The EGR system has never been cleaned. I will be calling Gasket Masters for estimates for head gasket replacement and for a JDM Gen 3 and Gen 4 into Gen 3 Conversion into my 2013 Plug-in. Am I correct to assume my 2013 Gen 3 Plug-In's engine would be exactly the same as the non plug-ins, correct? Initial research seems to say a Gen 4 Engine can be swapped into a Gen 3 with some minor modifications (one being to put my Gen 3's EGR onto the Gen 4 engine). I do wonder if it would be all around easier for a DIY'er to do the JDM engine swap vs. the head gasket procedure. Assuming I rented or borrowed an engine hoist.
     
  8. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Earthling will be similar to dealer prices.

    A gen3 hybrid engine is the same as a gen3 plugin.

    A gen4 swap uses gen3 intake, exhaust, egr, some custom wiring and a custom cooling system setup that no one has standardized. I call them a frankengine. Some gen4 cooling lines are simply blocked and a gen4 selector valve for cooling can't be controlled with gen3 ecus. Good luck finding anyone to work on it in the future.

    JDM could be more reliable than a simple hg job.
     
    #9 rjparker, Feb 5, 2026 at 2:15 AM
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2026 at 2:28 AM
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  10. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Never. :eek:/

    I don't know over what period of time the Engine coolant level had dropped well below the minimum mark. It's my wife's daily driver, so I'm rarely under the hood to notice. I changed the oil in Sept of 2025. It's likely I would have noticed if the coolant reservoir was down much from the full mark at that time. After my wife first reported a check engine light 1/28/26, I saw that the coolant was WAY below the Min. mark, but still showing in the reservoir. Without running the engine, it took 1/2 gallon of 50/50 Zerex coolant to bring it to the full mark. It has remained there to date, but it has mostly been parked except one three mile errand after the coolant was added and the codes were cleared, thinking the issue would be solved by adding back the ≈ 25% of the missing coolant.

    On her next, same 3 mile one-way errand, she got the shaking engine again. NOT from cold-start, but AFTER her short 5-10 min stop at the shopping center. She had one more (3rd) trip to that shopping center, with the same result of the jerking engine just after she started back to home. Tonight, I made that same trip, which was MY first time for a first-hand experience. It drove smooth as normal from cold-start on the 3 mile trip there. I was continuing my research, parked, and go figure two hours went by. ;o) When I put the car in Ready, it ran on the battery until I got onto the highway. As soon as I accelerated normally, it switched from HV battery to the engine, and immediately there was ≈ 2 seconds of engine shaking, then smooth again. As I continued this test drive, stopping several times for varying amounts of time (2, 5, 10 mins., every time the car switched to the ICE engine, the ICE rattled for 2-3 seconds, then smooth again. I had my Autel MK808S scanner in 'Live Mode' to monitor the ICE while I drove. Outside ambient temp. was ≈ 50ºF (10ºC). On my 3 mile drive out, the coolant temp was 158ºF (70ºC). On the return trip, the temp started rising 170, 185. So, as I was now in a 25 mph (40kph) zone, I slowed and accelerated strongly several times to see if it would continue to rise. It got up to 195ºF (90ºC). Hmmn? Then I continued driving, but normally, w/o the hard accelerations, and it settled at 170ºF (77ºC). I took it back out to the highway to see what a steady 65 mph (105kph) would get for temp. At that highway speed the coolant temp was a steady 195ºF (90ºC). Hmmn?

    Would you agree that it seems to be a hot-soak restart misfire, not a cold start Misfire?
    What does having a hot-soak restart misfire, instead of a cold start Misfire mean?

    No, see above.

    TLDR: I don't think it has used oil, at least in the ≈5 months, ≈5,615 miles (3,500km). But if it has, then ≈1/4 quart since changed.
    As I mentioned, I changed the oil just under 5 months ago (9/9/25 @ 208,395 miles). When I checked the oil when the issue was first mentioned (1/28/26 @ 214,008mi), the level on the dipstick was 3/4 the way up from the bottom dot, 1/4 way down from the top dot. "Ok, 1/4 quart* low, let me add some oil". But I had NO 0w-20 oil on hand, weird. I don't 'remember', but that made me think, I must have put in all I had, and made it slightly short of full, and said "fine for now". The oil was golden and clear, zero milkiness, certainly no foaminess. So maybe no coolant is seeping past the piston rings in Cyl. 1. It is driven most days, often more than once. Maybe the amount of coolant that seeps into Cyl. 1, in say 15-20 hour driving gaps, is not enough to 'seep' past the rings??
    *Most of my experience is with vehicles that hold between 4.5 to 6 US quarts. I have always assumed, maybe incorrectly, that the amount between the low 'add' mark and the top 'full' mark was one quart.
     
  11. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Well, thank you very much for the enlightenment that a Gen 4 to Gen 3 car conversion is NOT a slam dunk. That saves me a day of chasing down a rabbit hole!! For a minute there, I was loving the idea of having a 2022! Gen 4 ICE in our old(er) girl. I hope there are still plenty of '13, '14 and '15 Gen 3 JDM's on the market. As I typed '15, I vaguely recall seeing something about the 2015 Gen 3 ICE being 'different' than the 2010 to 2014's. Is a 2015 Gen 3 ICE off the table as an option?
    @rjparker , I really appreciate your sharing your very specific knowledge! Cheers, Sir.