I can't edit the title. But the main issue is MPG. I get from - This - video If what he says is true- The guy says that if your inverter pump makes that noise, its bad. Does this mean, if it EVER makes that noise, its bad? I'm wondering, mine does do that. i hear it on occassions randmonly. Somtimes after turning it off i hear it doing this as i get out of the car. And yesterday as I was stopped at a red light, which I think I have heard on a few occassions before too. No codes from my Creader Elite T- last time I looked. after getting the car, a few months later I got the red triangle of death. I took the battery out, reconditioned multiple times all of the little packs and found one with low voltage and replaced it. Mileage did come back up again to around 50ish mpg in town driving and still got 45+ on the interstate. Lately, it seems to come and go. But not over 50mpg regularly in town driving like it was not long ago. Im sometimes at the pump seeing @50MPG, but not often, and on my inside dash gauge, tells me im getting 45mpg most of the time. And its usually pretty on. I know running the heater lowers mpg. And that moves onto another problem- So even if I turn my heat off, I have air from the outside coming in; not recirculating. And I feel air coming from the vents. If i turn it on recirculate i dont feel any air but, the problem is is I cant tell if its hot or not. So, if heat is OFF, then whyy would i feel any heat? So I checked the heater screen, and so my temperature is set at 77 or something. but its OFF. So I turn on the heat so i can adjust this temp, and if i turn it down to 70 or lower, no heat will, as its blowing out while heater is off, will come out. But I still thinks its a tiny bit heating up. The problem is, is if the car thinks the heaters on, it runs the motor more often; lowering MPG, to make the temperature of the air coming out warm. So for some reason the car thinks heat is on, gets it to the temperature set- and by doing this, rujns the motor more often, also killing my MPG. That doesnt seem right and I cant find no way to completely eliminate this. I do think I have mostly eliminated it but I dont know if 70 means heat on or not. If its comparing it to outside temps of like 50, wou9ld that mean heat on?: is it ocmparing it to outside temps to decide to turn it on or is it at a certain number it turns on and off? But somtimes just to go back to my mpg problem and me thinking its (at leat part) an inverter pump issue, i do get close to regular mpg. but it seems lower than usual. So 2 questions - inverter pump. Is it bad if I EVER hear that noise? and how much is too much? And 2, is something wrong- and can you pinpoint me to it, with the heating system actually running, and My theory is default it will run the engine more if it thinks the temperature needs to be raised of the hvac, and doing this means running motor= lower mpg.
That noise has nothing whatsoever to do with the inverter coolant pump. The noise comes from the coolant control valve, part of the engine cooling system, not connected to inverter cooling at all. The valve is sort of located near the inverter coolant pump, physically, but that's the only thing they have in common. You can find lots of threads here about the coolant control valve. The title of the thread should maybe be changed to "coolant control valve noise" or "don't mistake this noise for the inverter coolant pump".
The video says 'inverter coolant pump' and the noise it has it the noise I'm hearing from my car. So I don't know what to think. What would show me if the coolant inverter pump is going out? And what does that noise have to do with if I have an issue that it needs fixing? The guy in the video seems to be a professional at working on the Prius'.. so I dont know what to think. Does this indicate a problem? Or nothing, but maybe something I can check to see. Its really a MPG issue.
I listened to the video, which is how I could tell that's the coolant control valve noise. Finding videos on YouTube that turn out to be wrong is so common, sad to say, it's rarely much of a surprise. If I had a YouTube login I'd add a comment on it, but anyway, if you scroll the comments that are there, you'll see other people already have. (A few "gee, how's that noise different from the control valve another video said it was?" and at least one definite "nope, I had that noise and it was the coolant control valve".) As for the coolant control valve (which is what makes that repetitive back-and-forth noise when its position sensor gets flaky), in a lot of threads here you'll see you don't have to jump on it too urgently, depending on how much you care about a slight emissions or MPG effect. However, that valve does control whether coolant gets to the cabin heater, so if it ends up getting stuck in a no-heat position, in cold weather that might be something you'd care more about.
The 'professional' is holding in his hand a POS Chinese counterfeit/aftermarket (ebay/amazon special) inverter cooling water pump. No 'professional' worth a darn would install it.
What I'm seeing, which I dont think is normal.. but My thoughts on how this would work makes sense, but this way its doing it makes me sense its broken. You turn heater on. Car engine turns on more often to keep the radiator fluid heated up to get the temperature youve set your heat to to reach that temp. MPG drops. But I would think, turn off hvac- its like in analog systems, you move a valve that shuts the fluid from running through the heater core off. If air is blwoing through the vents - like because of some leak, doesnt really matter-(unless it does in this case but if so, i can shut that off by turning on recirculate but it doesnt make no difference because mpg still sucks) the valve seeming to in conjuction with sending fluid through the heater core still after hvac is turned off, the temperature number setting, is still got the car turning hte engine on and off to regulate and get any air through your hvac system- through the heater core- to reach the number of temp you set it on.. even with Hvac OFF. This doesnt seem in some ways, to be the normal operating procedures. And some system - my guess that tells if water is running through hvac- then it detects the temp number and tells the engine to produce that temp of radiator fluid that would equate to that degrees coming out of the vents- is stuck on. Something operates the engine turning on and off. Sure the number Temp does, but the ON/OFF switch- is off on the screen, but how the engine or whatever sets this to on- turning motor on and off, how it detects ON/OFF might be from soemthing different, could be if fluid passes through heater core or not. Im guessing its that. If its that or the thing that turns the water to bypassing on or off through the heater core that might be broke.. Or it could just be teh brains that tells it to turn it on and off- but it will turn it off if AC is on. So it wouldnt be just stuck, it would be turned on heat. I think also it may get stuck on AC if i turn the temp down too low. Havent rechecked it lately been pretty cold, but "thought i remembered" turning it way down to bypass any of that speculative -compares temp on screen to outside temp- to decide whether to turn on heat or AC. but that would make my AC on off button basically useless. IDK if anybody knows anything more about this weird- turns on engine- system operating procedure that could fill me in on the possible problems. So ok back to question 1 too, how can i tell if the inverter pumps blown? Any videos. I can trust the vdieos i can trust information here. That dude he seems to be a Prius' specialist. in my perspective ive got information on both sides. Ive heard a video where it showed the CCV making noise, but it seemed to be simliar but slower. Mine is exactly like in that video in OP. Cant find this other one that talked about the slower similiar noise. but thats what made me go for the inverter is bad guess.
Ok found some info in the comment section. Also a possibility of what it might be. so anyone have any idea.. what sensor their talking about exactly? Would that lead to my heater problem? What does this valve operate exactly? Just the hvac system heater side?
Don't waste brainpower on the inverter coolant pump unless you have some reason to. Coolant control valve noises don't come from the inverter coolant pump, and HVAC symptoms don't come from the inverter coolant pump. Some old cars used a valve to regulate the amount of coolant through the cabin heater based on your cabin heat number setting. The Prius doesn't. It uses the same coolant flow through the heater all the time, and uses an air-mix door to control how much of your cabin airflow goes through it or around it, and that's what controls your cabin air vent outlet temperature. The gen 2 Prius coolant control valve isn't there for the purpose of controlling cabin heat. It's there to control when hot fluid gets stored in or retrieved from the thermos, to shorten engine warmup time. However, it can have an effect on cabin heat, if it happens to get stuck in one of the storage/retrieval positions where coolant flow is diverted from the cabin heater. The position sensor is a potentiometer that is inside the coolant control valve mechanism. Toyota only sells the control valve as an assembly. If you are an electronics geek you can find an old thread here where somebody opened the valve and changed the potentiometer with an off-the-shelf one. The thread had pictures.
the heater has to work off of this somehow, to tell when to turn the engine on and off. Heater use and mpg correlate.
or maybe its possible, even if i cant feel it, -example when i turn off vent from outside and turn on recirculate(cant feel it) the fans still blowing anyway... yea idk how im not hearing the fan from the inside- but the mpg is still down compared to what temp i set the temperature at on the heater whether on not i turn it on vent from outside or recirculate. but air blowing over the heater core would also lower the engine temp and cause it to turn back on to hold coolant at a certain temperature, too.
The car has a direct temperature sensor for the engine coolant, so decisions about when to start/stop the engine to maintain a desired coolant temperature can rely directly on that. The engine and HV ECUs also know when cabin heating is requested (because they're able to exchange network messages with the HVAC amplifier). That can have an influence on what coolant temperature range is targeted, as you can read about in threads like ➡this one⬅ if you're curious. (That's a gen 3 thread; as far as I know, there's also a gen 1 thread on the same topic. I don't know that anyone has done one for gen 2 specifically.) Except for curiosity to better know how the car works, you'd have enough information now to determine what to do about the coolant control valve: the hunting noise reveals that's it's faulty, and that can be fixed by replacing it.
Chapman is right, guy who made video is wrong... To be clear, if it sounds like an old floppy disk drive that's the 3-way coolant valve that fails on all old Gen2 Prius and error code is P1121, which takes a whiel to finally show up. The error code this guy references is for a dead inverter pump, which you can determine by Not seeing turbulence in reservoir and NOT hearing the pump running. What's more, when the inverter overheats its just a thermal shutdown switch to protect the inverter and soon as everything cools down everything is fine. His claims of disaster if that happens is not accurate.