Timing Mark Placement

everyone.

Long time lurker and reader. This forum has been great for me, but Im having some trouble moving forward atm.

So, here is the story.

P0012 and P0016 codes appear. I clean the camshaft position sensor and cleared codes. P0012 appears fixed but P0016 returns after 7 miles. I clean the crankshaft position sensor and clear. Code returns during the next trip. I replace with new crankshaft position sensor and code returns before going into drive.

I went, knowingly, a lil too long on an oil change 9 to 10k. I honestly figured it would be okay just that once. I did 5 to 6k changes from 64k to 235k and did the head gasket and service the egr and intake every 50k. Did so a third time about 40k miles ago when I did the head gasket.

So, my thinking is dirty oil or something and Im doing a second oil change I notice I dripping oil from the tensioner and dripping oil from filter. So...part of my thinking is that this could cause a oil pressure issue and that could be triggering the p0016 code maybe? Oh and a bought a new vvt solenoid since the code returned after cleaning that too.

I ordered a spin on filter housing to install that was recommended in this forum since I still appeared to have a leak after updating to a metal cartridge housing from the OEM plastic. I believe I damaged the OEM housing by over torquing the filter by mistake and thats why it still leaks.

So.

P0016, leaking tensioner, leaking filter housing.

I ended up having to remove the timing cover because when I attempted to release the tensioner after replacing the gasket--by turning the crank 10 degrees counter clockwise then clockwise--I didnt hear the release and it felt like the chain got stuck. I couldnt move forward without seeing the marks so I removed the timing cover.

And low and behold! While removing my crank pulley I discovered its broken af. Now Im thinking whoa, this could have potentially caused my p0016 (crankshaft and camshaft correlation error).

Parts bought to fix this. Crankshaft position sensor, vvt solenoid, Mahle timing cover and valve cover kits. Timing chain. Harmonic Balancer.

Here's where Im at now. In order to get my marks on the chain to line up with sprocket marks, I have to pull the exhaust cam forward a little bit off the 12 o clock position the diagram shows. Now my crank is at its correct position with the key up at 12. I am unable to get the crank to line up by 1 tooth when I have the exhaust cam at 12. 1 or so works. Though this leaves me with a slight issue of concern.

That issue is whenever I bump the chain wrong or swing arm the cam jumps back to 12 taking me off mark.

Now, I ran into this issue before with my head gasket job and I honestly cant remember 40k miles ago if I sent it like that and was just careful af not to bump the wrong thing.

I did learn to use wire though this time, wrapping it behind the swing arm and tightened on the chain near the intake cam, to hold tension so that I dont slack at the crank and risk jumping a tooth there.

Also pictured is my new crank pulley and old one.

Do you guys think Im g2g? Is there something I am missing or need to be made aware of?

The images displayed are as I currently have it set up. Hoping its ready to replace o rings and gaskets and reassemble and Ive covered all the bases I need to clear my p0016 and take this baby to 300k.

Thank you

 

Oh here is the imagine showing the broken part of the dampener.

 

Well, tbh embarrassingly enough, I never torqued it down when I did the Head Gasket. No one said how to in any video or showed to in any of the HG videos I saw and some how I didnt think to until I found the crank pulley bolt loose when I went to release the tensioner.

I didnt know to torque it with an impact wrench because you cant buy a pully lock.

Tbh torquing it with an impact scares the piss out of me. Im a total amateur.