Cold start : cuts out after ~7 seconds. Did this once every few months, but now totally dead.

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by landspeed, Mar 17, 2026 at 3:16 AM.

  1. Trombone

    Trombone Active Member

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    One factor landspeed has mentioned gets my attention: the vehicle is operating (barely) without a catalytic converter. There are sensors fore and aft of the cat, so I would suspect something is going on with the exhaust system. I think that would account for many of the symptoms described.

    As for the MAF sensor, just because it looks clean doesn’t mean that it is!
     
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  2. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Yep; the forward sensor is a requirement, the aft is the feedback loop to manage electronically controlled fuel mixture. The ECU will run the engine for a bit on base factory settings - then it should throw codes and possibly throw it into limp mode. Don't know how they have it wired up to spoof those sensors.:(o_O:oops:
     
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  3. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    I bailed from this after giving my advice, which was essentially the same advice you've received multiple times now. I would add that there are gas tanks available here in the US from dismantlers, most of which are in California. Check car-part.com to find all of those. I've replaced the tank in one of mine with a used tank and haven't had any new problems.

    Just because you get some gas from the pump doesn't mean you get enough fuel pressure to not cause problems. And, did you check the fuel filler neck like I told you. Maybe you don't have snow, but these are old cars and it could still be rusted through. Literally takes 30 seconds and no tools to eliminate that as an issue.

    I also am leery of advising on the early Japanese models. Not sure how different they may be, especially the ECU software.

    Otherwise, you seem to simply have typical ICE issues. Do you have a service manual so that you can follow standard diagnostic procedures? If not, go to http://www.charm.li and download it. They only have the 2001 and up manuals, so again, not sure any differences with your Japanese model which may have come out before that.
     
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  4. landspeed

    landspeed Active Member

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    I do agree fully! I’m doing the spark plugs because I know they need to be done (I have done other maintenance, but these are the same ones that were there in 2019 when I got the car!); also, I don’t have my spark plug socket, so need to get one of those anyway!

    I suspect a coil has gone bad (given how sudden it was), it removing and inspecting the plugs will also be useful (especiallly as there is unburnt fuel (smell from exhaust) and the sound of detonation under load
     
  5. landspeed

    landspeed Active Member

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    I did check the fuel tank and fill pipe - it hasn’t rusted through, and there were no fuel leaks when filling the tank;

    I am hoping it isn’t the fuel pump; my plan is to replace the plugs as they are old (and given gasoline smell from exhaust and detonation suggesting unburnt fuel). Once those are replaced I can try disconnecting coils again if the issue remains. Replacing the plugs rules them out as an issue (also, they are well overdue for replacement). Also I don’t have the correct spark plug socket, meaning I need to fo into the auto store anyway, and I also get to test the car with a cold start on a cold-ish morning (8am, and yesterday’s start was around 3pm).

    Also, I don’t have a tool to test fuel system pressure available; the best test I can do without the tester is to see if the car can start and drive (it can). I’ll get a pressure gauge from the auto store if needed (if replacing plugs doesn’t fix it, and if all plugs are giving a spark (with the spark testing tool I am also going to buy).

    I did note that the car can still accelerate fairly well (very brief test), which to me suggests there is enough fuel system pressure to produce a fair amount of power from the engine, yet there is a misfire at idle and a misfire under load;
     
    #25 landspeed, Mar 18, 2026 at 3:03 PM
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2026 at 3:15 PM
  6. Trombone

    Trombone Active Member

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    For the spark plugs, I strongly recommend that you use ONLY the OEM Denso iridium-tip SK16R11, as listed in the owner's manual. The manual also lists NGK iFR5A11. I have used none but the Denso, and am now on my third set @176K miles. The manual calls for changing plugs at 90k miles.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wonder if this description might be considered off by one. There is a sensor that's forward of the whole engine: that'd be the MAF sensor, in the air intake. Then there's a sensor forward and a sensor aft of the first catalytic converter.

    The MAF sensor, forward of the whole engine, is a definite requirement; the engine can't even do good open-loop injection control without that.

    The next sensor, aft of the engine but forward of the cat, is used for feedback to achieve closed-loop mixture control.

    The final sensor, aft of the cat, is used for monitoring the functioning of the cat.