Recommendation to buy HV Battery in SoCal

My buddy will be replacing the HV battery on his 2012 and wanted to know who if anyone has purchased one here in SoCal and price. We checked Electron Hybrid Solutions in Orange and they are $1688 plus $399 Core ($2087.00) for a rebuild kit w/ 1 year warranty. Hybrid Pit Stop in Buena Park Quoted $1950 installed w/ 1 yr warranty.

There are just so many more places but Id rather ask if anyone has a recommendation based on + personal experience.

 

It's not that easy, he cant afford 3k. Found a place another friend with a 2nd gen used and they want $900 for a refurbished unit 1 yr warranty but that kinda seems sketchy. Although, the 2nd gen is still going after exactly one year ago when they replaced it for him. Most places ive seen is $1600+ for reconditioned units.

His budget is just that.

 

I agree 100% only thing that longer warranty = higher prices.

We looked into a place called Electron (one chrisfix used) and they have decent prices and they do have a storefront. They have a recond battery for $1688+$399 refundable core= $2087 w/ free delivery out the door but just the cells no installation. Only thing is since we are local and we would pick up, they do not offer any type of usable discount when they would save on the shipping. Hybrid pit is about $2k including installation 1yr warranty as well.

 

Sorry, forgot to post. He went with a battery from a place called Ace Hybrid Group in Orange Grove, Ca. He got it for $950 out the door and 1 year / 15k mile warranty. Yelp had them at 5 stars with all positive reviews. So only time will tell on that. If I ever need it, I may end up using them as well.

 

We called there and They were at $2k installed

 

Is there a way to keep the complete HV battery assembly charged once outside the car? I may end up keeping the core and paying half the cost of the core charge since my buddy was cool with paying the other since I helped him put this new one in. It still had many good modules on there so wanted to know if there is a proper way to “maintain” its SOC when not in vehicle. I did a quick chaptpgt search and it said best way was to put back in car but not taking my own battery out to ensure this one stays charge or use a “proper” charging method to ensure SOC is between 40%-60% but dont know what method that is.

 

ill have to look into that thx

 

I was looking at the Maxx Volts option on ebay, they run for about $299.

 

UPDATE: I saw my buddy yesterday and he told me that the check engine light has not come back on ever since the HV battery replacement and car runs excellent HOWEVER, he said he has logged in over 800 miles and 28 warm up cycles and he went to auto zone to scan it and the P0A80 code is still there. Apparently this isn't going away on its own as many have stated so on youtube and on here.

 

The pack he got was tested at the place he bought it before he was given it. It was a complete battery to battery replacement, not cell replacements. My dad is also looking for a prius himself and the last 2 that we have seen and I put the scanner have a P0A80 code stored as permanent and when asked both also had HV batteries replaced, one in 2024 and has logged in 9000 miles since replacement and the other had the battery replaced last month and over 300 miles and and both have permanent P0A80 codes. This is crazy how this code is so common and hard to erase on its own.

Btw, its not that simple as to “borrow” a good pack and get a car pass emissions here in CA for a few reasons:

1. The code P0A80 is apparently permanently stored in the ECU so wont go away automatically with the battery replacement.
2. A replacement would still require monitors to clear and that takes miles and lots of driving to complete.
3. In CA apparently theres a 50/50 chance your car will pass with a permanent code that is non-ICE related as I have seen some people on youtube and 1 of my friends have that code and their car passed emissions. Others have been failed automatically when the smog station sees the code.

So, with that being said its harder to risk it and get emissions passed here unless the station is nice enough to “pre-test” knowing beforehand to see if the p0a80 appears in their system as most will NOT pre-test even thought hey say they do because its a sure $60-$70 for them to have it fail and then you get the popular “free” retest. Most will automatically red flag your car when you mention it bit if you dont then they may just run thru the test and come back and just tell you it failed so thats the risk i label as 50/50. I personally have read the CA BAR website and have NOT found anything supporting a “Pass” for permanent codes that are non ICE related. It actually says vehicles 2010 and on cannot have any incomplete monitors. And the only incomplete monitors related to EVAP were the common exceptions on pre-2010 automobiles.

 

Sorry typo above one car was 2014 not 2024 lol.

They were reconditioned from a local shop and tested before leaving with the unit. The “borrowing” a pack from someone unfortunately isnt an option. if something was seriously wrong, the car would throw current codes as well as check engine lights, at least on all the ones i’ve dealt with that have serious HV battery issues. Spoke to a shop and the guy said it is unpredictable as to how many miles need to be driven before the car decides there is no issue and it has to be to the “T”.