Non-JBL Upgrade Project, 2008

I thought I might post notes as I go through this and update the first thread post as it progresses.

Project:
Upgrade the base system (Non-JBL) in an 08 Prius.

Goals:
o Keep the head unit for now.
o Upgrade front and rear speakers, driven by a modest amp.
o Keep costs to moderate/low levels if possible.
o Sound quality, not so much quantity.
o Be able to easily add a powered subwoofer later (amp with preamp outs).

Based on initial research both here and at other resource sites, as well as sparky's guide for upgrades, I went with these components:

Infinity Kappa 62.7i $79.00
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs $149.00
Alpine MRP-F250 $129.00
Subtotal: $357.00
Shipping: $0.00
Total: $357.00

Cookie cutter Sparky's guide.

What I ended up with was the Infinity Kappa 60.9cs components for the front arriving first today. The 62.7i two way speakers on the slow boat from the left coast (next Tuesday) followed by an upgraded amp due to backorder on Wednesday. My modest amp choice of the Alpine MRP-F250 became the MRP-450 for $179. Reasonable for $50 more and probably better suited to the speaker RMS and max power levels.

I can obviously only speak anecdotally for my experience with onlinecarstereo.com, but my experience was outstanding. When I called to check on the odd shipping, they were quick to offer me appropriate alternatives, discounted upgrade options, etc. They called me back three times to make sure everything was correct and UPS to confirm shipping. Damn good customer service there. I hope that's the norm and not the exception.

On with the story:

Install attempt this evening: Front passenger side

Disassembly per Sparky's guide was good. The door was slightly different with the power window and lock. It was easier to remove the socket from the door than the plug from the socket for the door lock. It seems to use a release that requires a thin probe to release a table deep in the plug, though I could just be missing something obvious.

I found it necessary to use a pair of channel locks to hold the rivets, otherwise all but one would simply spin while drilling.

The first fit test did not go well. The 60.9s are big speakers. Using the included mouting bracket, the back of the magnet just kissed the glass of the window when all the way down. Given the curvature of the window, I can only assume that it will hit the top of the magnet when all is secured tighly. I obtained the only workable extra thick spacer from a local store. It's a Chrysler speaker adapter plate 1995-99. With a slight pilot hole or two it should fit nicely. It is at least twice as thick as the included adapter. +$10 to costs. The stock mount projected out at least twice as far as this upgrade, so I'm not worried about that.

Rain tonight, sunny tomorrow after work. We'll see how it goes.

Steps yet to finish for speakers:

o Finding out where to cut the factory lines, install the rather large crossover, and how to mount a considerably larger tweeter than the stock one.

o Replicate the install on the driver side.

o Replace the rear speakers. This should be a good bit easier and exactly as in sparky's guide.

Part 2: Amplifier Install.

Looks like under the passenger seat is where the Alpine will go. The larger model is very similar in size to a 9x13 baking pan, so I'll try that as a mockup for position. I'll need something to keep it off the carpet and secure it well. If I can find mounting spots for the JBL, I might be able to use them with some brackets. Another method I am considering is using some metal channels velcroed to the floor on bottom and the amp on top as an easy, yet secure standoff.

I'll need to bring the four pairs for the speaker outs from the back of the factory unit to the amp, then the amplified outs back to the factory head unit area and splice them back into the factory wires running to the door speakers. I should also need the remote wire tapped into and ran back to the amp. Looking forward, I'll need an RCA pair from the amp's preamp outs and the remote line ran to the rear for the powered sub.

Part 3:

Powered Sub. While I was picking up that thicker mounting bracket, they had an 8" Bazooka powered subwoofer at the store for under $100. In a what the hell moment, it came home with me. +$100 to budget.

I have nothing unique that would justify a picture at the moment. Sparky's pdf on the subject is good so far. I am also referencing the guide for installing an XM antenna for info on running the power and signal lines from under the passenger seat to the battery in the rear.

More later.


Resource links:
http://crutchfield.custhelp.com (search for keyword Prius)

 

Update:

I've finished both doors now.

o The 1" tweeters will indeed fit in the plastic grilles, with some heavy modification.

You need to litterally gut the mount, even removing the tab that holds the bottom square side of the snap on front grille. All the thin ribs, widen the hole at the top rim, anything that won't mess up the strength members. Even then, the tweeter would push out the snap in grille a bit. I used a two part, 6 min set time epoxy from LocTite. This stuff mixes together like cold syrup and sets up relatively quickly. I held the grille on in the corner where I removed the tab with some, then installed the tweeter with some gobs of epoxy where it touched the wall and post. It was rock solid inside 30 min and ready for install. It does push against the wire for the side mirror heaters a bit.

I used only a sheetrock knife to cut the plastic. If it's sharp, it's easy.

I tried to remove the metail grille on the front of the tweeters (as mentioned in some other thread), but was unable to. It was even too hard to cut without risking damage to the tweeter, so I just kept removing plastic to accommodate it.



o Don't overthink the wiring or placement of the crossover.

The door panel has a large empty spot just below the arm rest. Some good sized strips of all weather velcro stuck the large crossovers so they set just underneath your arm inside the door panel. Plenty of room to work.

The wiring is also easier than it looks at first. It first goes up to the tweeter, then down to the woofer with the stock speakers. Peel back the plastic a good bit (back to the handle), remove as many of the tape wraps as you need. The large cover wrap and the couple around the post tabs was about it. Don't worry about the black goo holding the plastic on. Even if it seems to pull off in a big mess, it sticks right back on very easily.

Feed the double line from the tweeter area back though to where the wires come out for the door controls (heading back to the void under the arm rest). Feed the woofer cable back inside along the main wire bundle and pull it out the woofer hole. Cut yourself a new line from 18 guage speaker wire and run it from the void under the armrest up to the tweeter area following existing wire. Rewrap all lines as before where applicable.

Cut the head off the tweeter connector and wire incoming to the in of the crossover. On the 2008, the incoming are marked by blue (perhaps green, I forget at the moment) dots, while the outgoing (formerly from tweeter to woofer) are marked with gold dots. Send the woofer line from the woofer out (check polarity), and finally your new line from the crossover tweeter out up to the tweeter area.

Once you have done it on the passenger door first, the driver door goes very quickly.

Results:

With only the front speakers replaced, the difference is already well worth it. The head unit can drive these 90w RMS, 240W peak speakers to the point of being uncomortably loud and distortion free as far as I can tell.

Next:

Rear speakers on Wednesday, then a shot at the amp and subwoofer.

I'll try to get some pics of the modified tweeter housing tomorrow.