Smart key system no longer works like it used to...

The odds of that are vanishingly small, unless they share a common component, such as a fuse, or something was done to zap the SKS system in general.

Tom

 

This situation is getting really strange. I suggest that the OP make every effort to find the second fob for security reasons, and also since a replacement will cost ~$300 or so.

Once the fob is found and taken out of the car, if the symptoms persist where the hatch touch switch is the only one that recognizes the Smart Key, then it's time to visit the dealer. If you have personal items stored in the car, it would be a good idea to remove them since access to the inside oscillators will require removing the hatch floor trim and the center console.

 

well, if the fob is up front, the car will start without the known-location fob present because the lost one will provide the signal.

if the fob is in the hatch, it is not detected by the interior sensor and the car will not start without the second fob present.

the hatch sensor, iirc, only detects the fob outside the car. but it's late and it's been a damn long day so that's as far as my mental capacity is going tonight.

 

Hi Galaxee,

I understand that there are five oscillators:

- driver's door
- front passenger's door
- indoor (under center console)
- inner luggage (near left side of traction battery, can see if you remove the black plastic tray over the spare tire)
- outer luggage (near rear bumper cover)

Would you agree that the system is being weird if it recognizes the Smart Key when touching the hatch switch but not when touching either door handle (see OP's post #18)?

 

Ok, just to consolidate the information:

• SKS works to unlock from the hatch but not from either front door.
• SKS does not work to lock from any of the three locations.
• Owner is confident that the hood and all the doors are completely closed.
• Buttons on the fob work to lock and unlock.
• SKS works to start the vehicle.
• If the one known fob is removed from the vehicle, the vehicle won't start.
• Everything worked fine prior to draining the 12V battery.
• The problems as described began immediately after jump starting the vehicle and charging the 12V battery back up.
• The vehicle has not been involved in a collision.
• The vehicle is less than 6 months old, less than 3000 miles, and this is the first time the 12V battery has been drained.
• Around the same time the battery was drained, jumped, and charged, the second fob was lost.

Am I missing or mistaken about anything? If you end up taking it to a dealer, I'll be very curious to hear what they determine.

 

After the second fob has been found, if the OP still has problems and feels like experimenting, may I suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal where it connects to the body, wait several minutes, then reconnect. Perhaps a reset of all ECUs would eliminate this very strange and unusual situation.

 

Drum roll please....... I left my fob in the house, and tried starting the car and it started! ound:

Hmmmmm?

 

yep, fob up front.

 

It was fun trying to sort through the clues and narrow down the possibilities. I'm glad to hear that it was resolved and that it didn't require a trip to the dealer. Thanks for coming back and letting us know what you discovered.

 

Great to hear that everything's working again.

It's funny. The only thing that didn't fit the "key in the car" explanation was the fact that the SKS on the back hatch worked (at least partly). So, does this mean that if you try to use the SKS on the hatch that it doesn't communicate with the sensors up front? Interesting. . .

 

I totally understand, most days I'm lucky if I remember what I had for breakfast.
I am 100% happy that it worked out, hope your stress level drops back to normal.
:tea:

 

I've noticed that the hatch works differently than the other sensors. The difference I've noticed is when you lock a working fob inside by using the manual lock button on the other fob. I do this once in a while with my wife's purse up by the front passenger seat. When I do that, the smart key will not unlock the front doors - I have to use the unlock button on my fob. The odd thing is that the smart key still works for the hatch. I don't know why this works this way.

Tom

 

hmmm....ya right... so the option is if sitting in car and say someone is loading something in trunk for you like luggage, i would

a) have to hand him the key

b) get out and open hatch myself?

well, in that sense, i can see that the hatch would work that way.

then again, its disturbing that anyone could just walk up and open the hatch at anytime...but i guess that is what the master lock on drivers control is for