I appreciate you sharing your expertise with us on your (re)build. I can hardly wait for the next installment on your story. I hope you have continued luck with your project. Y'alls picture/stories are great. Keep safe and careful. GT
Hi JelloSlug, This thread is amazing. Thanks for sharing! If I had the space and know-how, then I'd love a project as yours. Until then, living vicariously has been an absolute pleasure. ...Cleaner, too!
Time for the next update: The welding is done and now it's time for the seam sealer. This stuff is sticky! Think extra think toothpaste and you will get some idea of the consistency of this stuff. I know, it looks like crap but the factory did not do a much better job. I really does not matter anyway because it will be undercoated and then covered with the plastic fender liner. I put the seam sealer where I sectioned the passenger side apron also. This stuff will never bee seen in the end because there are several parts that cover the apron when it's all put back together.
I've noticed several recent posts regarding errors made by body shops while repairing Prius accident damage. I am impressed at how thoroughly you've researched the Prius during your project vehicle acquisition and repair, so you may already be aware of the following. If not, then the following list may be helpful as you are reinstalling the front-end: Engine coolant not filled and air purged out. Expect to use ~ 6 quarts of Toyota SLLC when refilling; dry system capacity is 9 quarts. The relay that controls the coolant heat recovery pump is located in the relay box mounted to the cowl; you can short the switched terminals to get the pump to run while you are refilling the system. It will take lots of time to get all air out; note the air purge valve on top of the radiator, driver's side. 6 mm Allen hex key needed to open the valve. Use inspection mode to force the engine to run continually. Inverter coolant not filled and air purged out. Probably need ~3 quarts of Toyota SLLC. The inverter coolant pump is running whenever the car is IG-ON or READY. You should not hear air in the system when the pump is running, and you should be able to see a step in the fluid level, looking at the reservoir mounted to the side of the inverter. The fluid level at the rear should be higher, compared to the fluid in the remainder of the container. Radiator fans installed incorrectly so that they are blowing air at the radiator rather than sucking air. Note that the two fans have different blade count. They spin in opposite directions - refer to the exploded parts diagram to see which fan goes where. Incorrect air conditioner compressor oil used, which causes a high voltage leak in the compressor and DTC to be logged.
Those are all concerns that I have noted. I have 3 gallons of SLLC ready to be put into the car and I imagine that it will take most of it. I have considered making an interface box for the diverter valves and coolant pump to make bleeding the system easier. My fan assemble is a pre-assembled unit since I needed the entire housing, motors and blades. My old ones were smashed to bits. I have read up on the AC system and the special concerns with the oil. I have gone a step further and purchased a set of AC equipment just to use on the Prius so I won't contaminate the system.
Outstanding! There is good reason to expect that upon completion of the rebuild, the Prius will come READY, no DTC will be logged, and your wife can comfortably rely on that car for her daily commute or a long road trip!
Yep, everything will be painted like it was from the factory. I'm going to start prepping it tonight so I can prime the underhood areas. I will prime, then base coat, 2 coats of clear, and then undercoat the underside of the wheel wells. I'm really hoping to get it to the point were I can start putting the cooling system back together this weekend. That will give me some extra time to fiddle with things if need be.
Will you also be painting the exterior sheet metal at this time, or later? What is the process: will you paint the LF fender, hood, and front bumper cover while mounted to the vehicle or as loose parts? Is there need to paint the driver's door, the RF fender, or any other body parts? Do you plan to color sand the exterior sheet metal after it is painted?
I don't have a concrete date set but I would like to hand the key fob over to my wife by the end of September.
As of right now I am planning to paint the fenders, hood, and bumper off the car. The factory painted the fenders and hood on the car and the bumper off the car but there will be no way for me to prime everything I need to prime with the fenders on. The factory dips the car in primer to get full coverage and I'm just not able to do that. The passenger fender will be repainted, it has a few small dents and many deep scratches. The drivers door has a shallow dent as a result of the door being opened on the fender but both my wife and I agree that unless it just looks really bad after the rest of the car is done to just leave it alone. I may have a paintless repair place look at it before I break out the paint gun on it. I will only color sand if I screw up the clear coat. To color sand and have the clear coat last for more than a few years you need to put on at least 4 or 5 coats of clear. Clear is hard enough to do without screwing it up so I don't want to press my luck by doing more coats than needed. And anyway if I were to color sand and buff out "my" portion it would make the factory paint look like crap.
Small update: Proper prep work is the key to a decent paint job. The entire car is covered and I have taped off the engine bay, wheel wells and under the car. I don't want any over spray on the car at all. It just need some sanding and thorough cleaning with a tack rag and it will be ready to prime.
For the under hood stuff I not that worried about it. For the hood, fenders, and bumper I will either build a small "clean room" in the garage or paint them in my wood workshop where I have an air scrubber.
You know, reading this, has given me hope that the era of 'shade tree mechanics' had not ended with hybrids and higher end technological cars. Thanks!
I've been following some of this thread and was wondering how much the wheel alignment is affected after this is completed. Will it be like new again? Thanks 2003 Prius (when you never saw another PRIUS on the road.)