Dilemma - oil drained, car on ramps and toyota parts gave me a 90915-YZZF1 Filter ?

Relax, you got the right oil filter. It's the same one I use, and the one my local dealer sells/uses, and my mail-order bulk dealer sends me.

Did you check the dip-stick after you refilled the oil?

 

sas0611,

Nice dog!! We've been down to your neck of the woods for the big dog show they have at the fairgrounds on the PA side of the Delaware river not too far from the Frenchtown bridge. We have friends that live in Hopewell, NJ & we usually stay at the Stage Depot/The Inn at Pennington (NJ).

I have a short question/comment first, then a longer comment that should relax your fears.

Q : Why would you think you might have to drain ALL of your Mobil 1 oil out (as you say in your next-to-last paragraph) to refill after chg'g the oil filter? At the most you should only lose just the oil inside the oil filter itself. Short comment : Every car I've owned has always had the oil filter mounted higher than the crankcase, so none of the oil contained in the crankcase is lost if you just remove the oil filter. I would NOT save any of the oil from inside the oil filter though. But now you know you don't even have to worry about this issue at all thanks to the answers from 9G-man & your dealer.

Now for the longer comment about your original & shorter filter :
Many years ago when I bought my Peugeot Diesel wagon, it came with an oil filter marked with some letters & numbers (I can't remember what they were now from back in 1974) followed by a "-5". I also had seen some documentation somewhere confirm'g the same numbers. I bought a few ahead to do my own oil chg's (like you). If I remember correctly, the manufacturer recommended the oil chg's be done every 1,500 miles (oil was very cheap back then) because of all the blow-by past the piston rings due to the high compression ratio (24 :1) of the diesel engine (the oil would be completely pitch black only a couple of hundred miles after being freshly installed). During the use of those filters I repeatedly had many instances of the oil pressure warn'g light coming on. Each time I would immediately push in the clutch, shut the engine off, coast to the side of the road, lift the hood to check for any signs of splattered or lost oil, check the dipstick level, & not find'g any signs of a problem, restart the car & be on my way until the next repeat of the warn'g light coming on again a few hundred miles later.

The Peugeot dealer I bought the original "-5" filters from ran out of them & told me he couldn't get any more (I had not told him they were for the diesel---I had just asked simply for that part # only. In calling other dealer parts departments, I found that nobdy else had them either. I finally found one dealer in a small out-of-the-way dealership in a small town that told me he still had some left. I told him not to sell any to anybody else until I got there. When I arrived I asked how many he had & told him I'd take ALL of them. Very surprised, he asked why I wanted so many of that part # & for what appication. I told him nobody else had them & I needed them for my diesel wagon. He told me why the factory stopped ship'g them (& that he could still get some special ordered for only internal use at the dealership level. After his explanation (that follows), I passed on the "-5"s & bought the "-10"s (from then on) that he said were for my application.

It seems that the "-5" filter was a 5 micron filter initially installed at the factory to catch any "engine break-in" particles to be replaced at the 1st oil chg (& any & all subsequent oil chg's) by the standard "-10" (or 10 micron) oil filters & if I had just told any dealer that I needed an oil filter for the Peugeot diesel, that's what I would have gotten (the "-10") & it would have been the proper one. The only other use (& the way he said they could special order the "-5" for use inside the dealership only) was for a one-time installation whenever they rebuilt either a gas or diesel engine (to be replaced at the next oil chg by the standard 10 micron filter). He also volunteered that they were receiving many reports of customers having oil pressure warn'g light issues on the diesel because of all the blow-by soot & contaminents clogging the smaller 5 micron filter openings & that's when I told him I had been having the same scares too.

So, see, this may be a similar reason why your original filter (& also your pdf documentation) carried a different part # than the replacement one you were sold. Don't you worry now. I only wish it hadn't taken me so long back then to find out the facts (you learned right away) & then I wouldn't have had so many operator-initiatated engine shutdowns (sometimes in dark, un-friendly, or isolated & scary locations). So now feel free to enjoy your care-free rides, you 2-Prius family, you.

Ken (in Bolton,Ct)

 

You will be fine with the oil filter you installed

 

Auto manufactures seem to routinely change the oil filters used for their vehicles.

 

Steve

It's pretty subjective to describe how "tight" something is. I put the plug back on "snug" but not "tight." I guess that would be the low side of the recommended factory torque. It's probably more worry to have a stripped out plug than a loose one

That sounds about right. Once the filter makes contact with the mating surface, usually no more than 1 turn past. The nice thing is that the dealership filters have that cellophane wrapper on the end, and the o-ring has what appears to be vasoline on it.

Hope this helps

jay

 

90915-YZZF2 is the correct oil filter, which will be the same length as the factory-equipped oil filter. There's nothing wrong with using the longer 90915-YZZF1, however that will require around 0.2 additional quarts to get the oil dipstick level at the same point.

I hand-tighten the oil filter to 1/2 turn past initial contact. I've found that 3/4 turn makes the used filter unnecessarily difficult to remove, even when using my cap oil filter wrench.

Since tightening bolts "by feel" results in wide variability, I use a torque wrench and tighten the drain plug to the specified 28 ft.-lb, using a new drain plug gasket.

 

Patrick

I'll bet you a round of drinks that at the dealership, they put the drain plug bolt on by feel. I should warn you this could get expensive, I'm a *heavy* drinker

Jay

 

You can always use my dad's approach to tightening anything: tight as you can, then another 1/2 turn. He has stripped out a lot of fasteners and broken a lot of screws.

Tom

 

No thanks.

 

Tightening the drain plug 1/2 turn past snug sounds like a bit much. I would use a torque wrench if unsure, but the feel method works fine too. I would estimate about a 1/4 turn or less from "snug?" It isn't under pressure it is just a pan of oil. Maybe some who uses a torque wrench know the appx. turning angle better. I also reuse the gasket with no ill effects.

Forty plus years ago my machinist Dad and I rebuilt my Nash six, all tightening done by common sense feel, never had a problem with that engine.

The original Toyota or Denso filters have a torque stop, (they say), so by "feel," when the fiter just stops turning and is solid, it is just right. Seems to work so far, in my short experience with this car.