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4,200 watts of Pure Sine Wave power

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by MrK(2), Dec 31, 2008.

  1. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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    I acquired an uniterruptible power supply and matching transformer about 16 months ago. I tested it when I got it. I ran a 1/3 hp grinder, an 11.8 amp radial arm saw (not under load), and 450 watts of lights all at the time, with no difficulty or problems. But I never got around to installing it... until this week.

    I ran an 8 gauge wire from the basement into the garage, terminating in a 120v 30 amp. recepticle. I made a 30 foot extension cord of 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp plug (to mate with the recepticle) on one end and an Anderson Power plug on the other end (to mate up to a similar plug I'vew previously installed in my Prius).

    The 8 gauge wire in the basement is connected directly to my Tripp-Lite SU6000 power module (UPS). The power module is not connected to utility power at all.

    Tonight's limited test was to make certain nothing was mis-wired (I've had an issue with that before--long story), and to see if I could run my 1/2 hp sump pump, which I could not do from my 1,500 watt (3kw-surge) modified sine wave 12 Vdc power inverter. Tonight I had 450 watts of light burning, and then I started the sump pump. It worked like a charm!

    The only glitch was that the UPS kept warning me that the batteries were low (it looks for 240+Vdc, not the Prius' 210-235 Vdc), and that shutdown was emminent. Since the battery never runs down, there was no shutdown, however, I need to conduct more tests with increased loads to confirm the unit's ability to produce its full potential (4,200 watts).

    I also plan to connect the UPS's 240 Vac output to to the entire house through a 240 Vac outlet already available in my basement. This should provide power to the house through the house's wiring. Of course, I will first disconnect from utility power (even if utility power is down, as I don't want any dangerous feedback into utility wiring); then turn off the circuit breakers of circuits I don't wish to power (ie: septic system, air conditioners); and finally connect the UPS via a 240 Vac jumper that I made. That will feed both 120 Vac buses in the circuit box. I anticipate that I'll be able to power much of the house in this manner.

    I just wanted to provide a brief report. As I do further testing, I'll report back.
     
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  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Excellent!

    Make and model of UPS?

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. Doc Willie

    Doc Willie Shuttlecraft Commander

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    Looks like " my Tripp-Lite SU6000 power module (UPS)."
     
  4. Doc Willie

    Doc Willie Shuttlecraft Commander

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    I want to install a system capable of running a 1 hp sump pump. Would a 1Kw (1.2 surge) pure sine wave system be adequate for that? I want something I can run off my 12 v battery.
     
  5. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    That would work, but it would be illegal. In other words, you intend to "backfeed" into the breaker box, by first ensuring the main breaker is switched off, to prevent backfeed into the grid

    To meet appropriate electrical code, you must use an Automatic Transfer Switch to isolate the utility from the backup. Another option is to use a breaker box with manual transfer: you put the "essential" loads on the backup side, when the utility fails you manually reselect the essential load.

    Schneider Electric Canada - Solutions, Products and Services in Electrical Distribution and Automation and Control

    Much like reselecting essential for an aircraft. Although a cumbersome solution, it does work and is legal. There was a recall of some Stab Lok breakers a few years ago, so naturally American inspectors claim all of them are bad. Not like Square D has ever had any recalls or defects

    I'm curious what you paid for that 6000 watt UPS. They are usually far more expensive than a decent commercial inverter.

    The only downside is that the dc input voltage you are supplying is at the lower limit of what that UPS is capable of using. Is there any way to use the UPS software to adjust the input and output thresholds?

    The UPS may start to overheat if loaded past 50%, at the input voltage you are using. The only way to know for sure is to run tests. Most good UPS's monitor their temperature, so make sure to keep an eye on this. There is either a LAN port, serial, or usb on the UPS that allows you to monitor UPS performance
     
  6. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Probably not. Motor starting current is much higher than running amps. The motor info plate, usually attached to the motor, will state the "code" of the motor (Such as G, D, etc), the KVA, LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) etc

    Eg: a typical 1 hp code "G" motor will require upwards of 600% of its rated running amps, to start.

    During starting, a motor will typically have Power Factor of 0.3-0.5. A generator will struggle a bit, but can match this requirement usually in one step. An inverter expects to see 1.0 PF loads, and usually cannot match the PF needed if it is rated for the running amps only

    Remember that a motor is an inductive load, and issues with leading and lagging PF will cause problems for most unsophisticated inverters. Another issue is output, you have a "pure" sine wave inverter. A square wave or sawtooth output inverter will cause rapid (over) heating of a motor load

    All I can suggest is a test with the actual inverter, to see if it works. Realistically, you may need at least twice the rated motor load to reliably start the motor
     
  7. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    If you plan to use the Prius HV DC system to power the UPS you'd better make sure its' charging voltage is not too high for the NiMH Prius battery. Otherwise you will destroy the Prius battery in a few days (cause it to force out electrolyte). The maximum I'd allow would be 1.3V per cell.

    This could be expensive, as you have already voided any warranty on the hybrid system.
     
  8. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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    Sorry for the delay in responding to all of you. Too many things to do at year’s end.

    The UPS (Power Module, or PM) is a Tripp-Lite SU6000RT3UPM, and the matching transformer is Tripp-Lite’s SU6000XFMRRT3U. The PM is rated at 6,000vA and 4,200 watts. The transformer is an isolating transformer with the same ratings. I’ve also installed a SUPDM 12 backplate to the transformer, which I’ve rewired to be equivilent to a SUPDM 13. The difference is that the –12 is wired for 208 Vac, whereas the –13 is wired for 240 Vac. Both the –12 and the –13 have 10 120 Vac/20 amp outlets, too.

    Jayman, I shopped ebay for quite some time before I acquired each module from separate vendors. Including shipping, I paid $360 for the PM and $345 for the transformer. Both were brand new. Typical retail prices for these units is in the $3,000+ range, so yes, a top of the line genset could be purchased for less than the retail cost, and a good genset could be bought for what I’ve got invested.

    I haven’t yet thoroughly examined the software that came with the PM. I’m hopeful that it may allow me to adjust operating parameters and also to monitor the loads. Bob Wilson is going to help me learn something about load testing (in a separate post), using a 100 watt bulb to calibrate makeshift testing equipment.

    David, I do not have the PM connected to grid power for the very reason you mention: overcharging the very sensitive HV battery’s modules. In fact, the unit will not run without battery power being present, so there would be no point in connecting it to grid power. As far as voiding the hybrid system warranty, I agree that Mr. Toyota would have a potential reason for denying a HV battery-related claim, but I don’t see where he could extrapolate that to the balance of the hybrid system. Really, there’s no practical difference between sitting in traffic with the air conditioner cooling, running down the battery, the ICE cycling to recharge. The difference is that, instead of the a/c unit consuming the power, a UPS is doing so. For what it’s worth: Tripp-Lite tells me that my “unauthorized†battery has voided the warranty on the PM. I cannot disagree with them. I try to be practical. If I do something that truly might void the warranty, I’ll take responsibility. Conversely, if what I do is within the parameters of reasonableness, I’m willing to argue about it.

    Happy New Year to all!!
     
  9. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Gosh damn, that IS a good price!

    I have most of my UPS experience with the Silcon three phase systems. However, if you wish, I can look into this some more. I'm hopeful the TrippLite software can be used to define lower operating limits for the DC input
     
  10. V8Cobrakid

    V8Cobrakid Green Handyman

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    awesome.. that's cheaper than a new generator..
     
  11. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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    Yes, I was really pleased that I got all the pieces for under $800, including the backplate and wires, etc. to make my installation. I was also thrilled that the Tripp-Lite produce worked. Even though I checked with their customer service before buying it, and they told me that it should work, sometimes 'should work' and 'will work' are far apart. Again, Tripp-Lite does not condone using their product in this fashion and tell me it voids the warranty.

    Jayman, if you get the opportunity, I'd really appreciate your checking into whether the TrippLite software allows the user to define lower parameters. While I may be able to muddle through it, I'm never shy about accepting advice and guidance from those with a better grasp of the situation that I have.

    By the way, are you familiar with the MGE Pulsar EXL UPS system? I acquired a 10k vA /8 kw unit and transformer, but because the batteries are dead, I cannot get it to keep running on the HV battery. MGE isn't very helpful at all. They "no longer support this unit" as it has been out of production for more than 5 years. This unit appears to have more sophisticated monitoring capabilities and MGE recommends that I get one of their service people to start it for me ($$$$). I'll probably put it on Craigslist or sell it for scrap, as the TrippLite unit does all I want, and unless I can get it to work, I won't have any use for it, despite its significantly larger size. MGE says that the system is reading the state of charge on the internal batteries, therefore, even after connecting external batteries, it will not recognize them.
     
  12. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    I downloaded the manual from the TrippLite customer support site. The software allows you to define upper and lower limits for transfer from utility to battery. You can monitor temperature and voltages too

    However, the actual battery warning is not user defined, sorry to say.

    Note that the way you have configured the UPS, this is known as a "cold start." Although cold start is NOT recommended by UPS manufacturers, it will work. I would not recommend going away from cold start in your application.

    If you should happen to hook up the utility feed to the UPS, once the power comes on, the UPS will attempt to rapidly charge what it sees as a critically low battery, the Prius. The results could be spectacular

    Note: you may have noticed what appears to be a phone or RJ45 network port in back of the unit. Whatever you do, DO NOT attempt to plug a network cable or phone cable into this port!

    The port is for the EPO (Emergency Power Off) requirement. Per code, many commercial UPS installations require the use of an EPO for personnel and fire safety. Eg, during a fire, the fire department wants the ability to hit a remote "panic button" to depower all loads, whether supplied by utility or UPS

    Nope, no experience. Their website really sucks too. Apparently, they went through a Merger/Acquisition with Schneider Electric. The large three phase units are carried by Schneider Electric, the smaller units are - to add confusion - carried by Eaton

    Schneider Electric has software support manuals, but apparently as the Pulsar EXL is considered obsolete/unsupported, they could give one s*** about helping you

    A lot of the earlier ups's with internal batteries, with connectors for extended runtime external batteries, must have the internal batteries present. They will not work without them, as they will sense a fault.

    I would suggest removing the internal batteries. They are either 6v or 12v batteries. You may be able to find a cheap online source of generic batteries the same size. I've done this in the past to help a client muddle along with an orphan product until they could justify purchasing a new ups

    Note: what I charged them for this service probably exceeded what a new ups would have cost!
     
  13. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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  14. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Good idea. You should be safe

    I'm not sure of the size of those internal batteries. Doing a quick search online of the most common sized internal UPS battery, for a large application, was about $24 each. Thus, $960 to bring that system to new operation

    I suppose when you factor the normal price for such a large UPS, that's still cheap. It's up to you I guess

    Possible, but risky

    Any large UPS with a number of batteries, is a "widowmaker." All it takes is to drop a wrench on the bus, and you get a first-hand view of what a dead short looks like when powered by many batteries

    Dang. She had already booked our tropical vacation!
     
  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Actually you've solved a problem. I couldn't tell how identify which UPS were in the Prius battery voltage ranges. But looking at the Tripp-Lite web site, they list all of their external battery packs and the equivalent UPS units:

    SU5000-xx
    SU6000-xx

    These look to be the ideal sized units for 240 V battery systems.

    I also saw one Ebay listing for an APC board that carried an SU5000 part number. I'm wondering if APC is just low-end, Tripp-Lite. I also found a Chinese company offering sine-wave UPS but I didn't see their price.

    Regardless, now there are options.

    Bob Wilson
     
  16. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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    You may have noticed that both the SU5000 and the SU6000 come in two "rack size" configurations: 3u and 4u (three rack spaces or four rack spaces). The 4U units run on 192Vdc, and the 3U units run on 240Vdc. A Tripp-Lite engineer told me that either would work on my 2006 HV battery (201Vdc nominal, 210-235Vdc actual). Your 273Vdc battery may overload these units. I'd check with Tripp-Lite before buying anything.

    Also, Tripp-Lite made a 7,500vA unit, and they still make (I think) an 8,000vA unit and a 10,000vA unit. All these use the 240Vdc battery pack, and output is 200-240Vac. You'll probably need an isolating transformer if you want 120Vac power, as I'm not sure to what degree the lines of the 240Vac output can be unbalanced. I had a really, really hard time getting that info out of Tripp-Lite, and my question pertained to the output of the isolating transformer, not the Power Module itself.

    I think APC is a fine unit, too, but I'm not sure what the dc input on the 5,000vA unit is. I think that it's output is 208/240Vac, so a transformer would be in order if you want 120Vac.

    Jayman, I was wondering why Mrs. K was asking me to check on cruises to the eastern Caribbean and "all inclusive" Mexican resorts!! I'd better hire a food taster!
     
  17. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    For a UPS, the isolation transformer is usually used to connect the UPS power module to utility power. There are advantages to using an isolation transformer to filter and isolate the input, UNLESS you intend to use it in conjunction with a generator!

    By default, the power module will only supply 208/240 power. So you *need* the transformer to supply 120 vac. The options are 240, 208, and a couple of 120 outputs. It's pretty easy to unbalance such a transformer by putting all the 120 vac load on just one of the 120 vac outputs

    In practical use, I wouldn't worry too much about trying to balance the output. This is a far more serious concern for three phase UPS's, such as the Silcon line. It won't remain on for 24x7x365 use, like it would be in a datacenter or telecomm room


    That was strictly CYA on the part of TrippLite. Otherwise, if they happen to tell you something vague or incorrect, and you manage to electrocute yourself as a result, then MrsK could really take them to the cleaners

    The older Matrix line was durable but is also discontinued. I can't remember if it provided split 120/240 output.

    The current products, like Symmetra, can be ordered with a 208/120 stepdown transformer. Otherwise, the input is 208/240, and the output is 208/240.

    The Symmetra and SmartUPS three phase are 480/3ph input, and 480/3ph output. There are a variety of power module transformers to step down to single phase 240/208 and 120

    Just act natural and pretend you don't suspect anything. Yes, the "sacrificial" food taster is a good plan. Also check the shower drain to make sure that pesky 240v dryer plug wire has been removed
     
  18. toxicity

    toxicity A/C Hog

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    Slightly off-topic question, but are y'all electricians, electrical engineers or just like to mess around with electricity? All the PriUPS projects fascinate me but I don't think I'd ever be willing to risk screwing with 240 volts of pure pain.
     
  19. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Systems Analyst, Chemical Engineer, with strong experience in industrial motor control centers, and MV/HV grid intertie
     
  20. MrK(2)

    MrK(2) Junior Member

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    Actually, I'm a surety bond underwriter/claims administrator. I'm kind of a jack of all trades: I know a little bit about a lot of things, but not enough about anything to be an expert. But I absorb information readily, and I'm always up for trying something, especially if somebody tells me it can't be done.
    I have had an exponential increase in my knowledge of electricity since I started this project, primarily due to coaching by the likes of Richard Factor (via PriUPS) as well as Bob Wilson and Jayman. These guys won't steer you wrong.