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flashing/blinking gas gauge

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by thuston, Mar 2, 2009.

  1. thuston

    thuston New Member

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    I have a 2008 and the fuel gauge is blinking to a three count. Blink on then off, blink on then off, and stays off for the third count then repeats the whole sequence. Does anyone know what this might mean?
     
  2. firepa63

    firepa63 Former Prius Owner

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    Any other pertinent facts that we should know about as posted on POL?
     
  3. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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    [​IMG]
     

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  4. thuston

    thuston New Member

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    Hey friend,
    The most importand info is that my fuel gauge is blinking. If I thought that other facts were pertinent I would have put them in.:) But what do I know.....If I knew it all, I wouldn't be here looking for answers
     
  5. thuston

    thuston New Member

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    Thanks for that info Dogfriend,
    That must be out of the manual...which I haven't recieved yet. I have been seaching online for info about this car. I did have my car into a dealer. They changed the airbag computer, instrument cluster computer, smartkey computer and battery. The gas gauge only started doing this after I got it back. There was a sheet left in the car about setting the Inclination sensor. I called and emailed them to see if I was supposed to do that or if it was already done...no answer yet:( I went ahead and set the inclination sensor as per the instructions, but no help. I will take it back to a dealership at some point, I would like to have some idea of what it might be before I go back.
     
  6. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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    I was not able to find any more specific information in the service manual or the tech training manual pages.. I think that you need a scan tool to see if there are any codes set.
     
  7. firepa63

    firepa63 Former Prius Owner

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    I guess I was thinking of the "medium front end collision" and the 3 ECUs being replaced...
     
  8. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If there's "no network" then I wonder how the car can be driven since the various ECUs need to communicate with each other. Surely some DTCs would be logged if that were the case.
     
  10. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Perhaps only the fuel gauge is off network.

    Tom
     
  11. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    thuston, I think the subtext here is "take it to a dealer for diagnosis" :_>
     
  12. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    I would agree with that one, or the sender unit from fuel system is defective. Either way a trip back to the dealer is in order.

    Quick find on the manual info, and Hobbits info Dogfriend. Big Jeopardy points for that one!

    Let us know what the outcome is. Knowledge is power
     
  13. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    The most important thing I saw in Dogfriend's first image was that I see even the US hand book says, It is a good idea to keep the gas tank at least 1/4 full.
    Sorry this is off topic, I'd visit the dealer if my gauge was flashing.
     
  14. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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    Yep I noticed that one too. Good advice.
     
  15. thuston

    thuston New Member

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    Thanks for all your help:rockon:
    I am a little gun shy from the last experience I had at the dealers. Let me tell you "The rest of the story".
    The car was in a front end collison. I had the front end repaired at a cost of $4,282. Since there was codes showing, it was taken to the dealer. They did some work $3,500 and it appears to not have fixed much. I asked the dealer to email me a list of the codes that were showing and they just replied. They are as follows.

    B1207 Smart ECU stop (replace ECU)
    P0010 Camshaft position "A" actuator circuit (repaired wiring and replaced solenoid)
    C2318 low voltage error Power supply - (replaced battery)
    B1200 MPX body ECU stop (no repair)
    B1271 combination meter ECU communication stop (replace combination ECU)
    P3107 air bag ECU communication malfunction. (replace air bag ECU)

    After they replaced these computers, they were still having problems. They asked what collision repairs were done to the vehicle. We told them that a frame rail air bag sensor was replaced and since the connector was damaged, it was replaced with one from recycled from another Toyota. When they heard that, they wanted to replace the whole wiring harness because they said the wires couldn't be spliced. That is when I heard that there was a loss of communication with an air bag module. Since the wiring harness is $5,000 plus installation, I told them I would pick up the car and decide later what I was going to do. After calling other repair shops, everyone I talk to said there is no problem splicing the connector into the air bag wiring harness. I also asked the dealer to send me a list of codes the car was showing after the computers were changed. They didn't give me codes, but did supply this explaination.

    Loss of communication with air bag module. Cannot clear other codes until air bag sensor malfunction is repaired.
    Cannot program inclination sensor until master warning light code is cleared. New wiring harness required.

    I wonder, if there was a loss of communication with an air bag sensor, why wasn't that investigated before they changed the computer? Did the computer need to be changed?

    It seems the only thing they were able to fix was the smart key. The gas guage wasn't blinking before I took it in. But it was after I got it from the dealership.

    I also wonder if the battery needed to be replaced. Could this code be be caused by the car sitting and the battery getting low? The car only has 6,000 miles on it. C2318 low voltage error Power supply - (replaced battery)


    I emailed them again to see if they will send me a list of codes the car was showing after the computers were replaced. I am going to take the car to another dealership when I find one that I think I can trust.

    Wow! Lots of technical stuff! Boy, am I every learning lots! If anyone has any ideas if I'm barking up the right tree, please let me know.:)
     
  16. JimN

    JimN Let the games begin!

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    Shouldn't this be a fight between the insurance company responsible for covering the expense of the collision and the dealer & Toyota for a warranty repair?
     
  17. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Yes and it should not even be questioned.
    Maybe you should consider talking to a lawyer to prod the folks along to make things right!
     
  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    firepa63 was right: the rest of your story is quite relevant to the problem that you currently have.

    You're on the right track by asking for a current DTC list after all the work that had been done. My guess is that other wiring harness damage exists that has not yet been identified and is causing the comm errors. I suggest that you very carefully examine the harness at the front of the car, wherever the accident damage existed.

    It is possible that there was nothing wrong with some of the ECUs that had been replaced. If the current DTC list is as long as the prior list, then you'll know that the ECUs were not the problem. I would not expect ECUs (other than the airbag ECU) to be damaged in an accident, unless they were physically impacted.

    Regarding DTC B1200 "Body ECU Communication Stop", the problem is either the multiplex network body ECU or the wire harness.

    DTC C2318 "Low Voltage Error" could be caused by the 12V auxiliary battery. The error is triggered when voltage at the transmission control ECU is 9.3V or less.

    Unfortunately, your case demonstrates why Prius suffering a collision might be "totaled" by the insurance company after what seems to be a relatively minor accident.
     
  19. thuston

    thuston New Member

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    You folks have been a comforting help:mod:. It is great to get some anwers.
    I'm not sure what "off network" means, but the car does drive well. Everything seems to work (although I haven't had occation to try out the air bags:) I drove it from the dealership home (+/-200 miles) and got over 40mpg. When I drove it in town, I got over 50 mpg. The worst part of the drive was the blinking gas gauge. Any idea what would cause the gas gauge to start blinking after the computers were changed?

    Is it possible for the voltage to drop from say a door being left open and set the code DTC C2318 "Low Voltage Error" and yet the battery to recover and still be OK? Are these batteries load tested the same way a normal battery is load tested?

    Patrick, I have learned a lesson about buying newer model complicated salvage title cars:eek:. I have successfully bought vehicles that have been in the US and had accidents for the last 10 years or so. This is the worst mess I have had. I guess I can count myself lucky:) After I bought this car, and had purchased ticket to fly down and pick it up (it was supposed to be able to be driven) I found out it had more damage than I first thought. Someone had already bought it from and insurance company and replaced one fender and the grill. There was no rad support, the left headlight was held in with tape, it only looked good in pictures. Financially, the best thing to do would have been to just put it back in the auction and let the next unaware person deal with it. Something about my Momma's upbringing wouldn't let me do that.:rolleyes: I told my wife that we now just fix and drive it til it doesn't owe us anything. We have kids that would love to have a beautiful car like this if I can just get it all figured out. Besides, it could have been worst.....it could have been a backhoe or something. Man, what would I do with that?:D
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, now that we know you purchased a salvage vehicle, I can see that you are on the hook financially for all repairs performed. (This is also relevant in understanding your problem, by the way.)

    I do not think that load testing of the 12V battery is particularly effective. I've seen posters who have wondered whether their battery is good, paid for a load test which their battery passed, then several days later had a failure. So whenever a thorny electrical problem exists, one of the first things I'd suggest is to replace the 12V battery so that this is eliminated as a trouble area. After the Prius battery has been discharged fully, it may not recover to normal capacity.

    Regarding the flashing gas gauge, I really cannot find advice in the Toyota repair manual about what to make of this. As you must pay for all repairs and it sounds like you want to learn about the car in an effort to reduce costs, I'd suggest that you obtain the Toyota repair manual for your model year. You can pay ~$500 for paper manuals or you can pay $50 for a one-month subscription to techinfo.toyota.com which would allow you plenty of time to download the repair manual docs and electrical wiring diagram. You probably also want to download the New Car Features Manual for 2004 and subsequent model years, which provides theory of operations.

    When you have the current DTC list, you can use the repair manual to provide diagnostic advice. For example, if the wiring harness is suspect, the manual will show you which pin outs to measure resistance across. If you find problems, then you'll know that the associated wires or the connector itself suffered damage.

    Since you say that the car is driveable; then, if there's nothing too worrisome, just live with the fact that your car has some nagging errors. This means that you'll continue to have the red triangle of death staring at you and the fuel gauge merrily blinking, while you cruise along enjoying fuel economy of 50 mpg.

    Given such a long DTC list and the fact that one dealer has already thrown lots of parts and labor time at the problem, it is not likely that we can provide you a quick fix other than to replace the wiring harness. The time-consuming but potentially cheaper fix would be for you to carefully look for, and repair all damage to the existing harness. If you still have comm errors when you get the new DTC list, I'd say there's around 95% probability that you have wiring harness damage.
     
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