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How to Efficiently Drive a Prius

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by tom1l21, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. magruder

    magruder Average Member

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    It is true that the battery charges in B mode, you just won't get as much charge as you will in Drive. However, if you are going down a long, steep hill, B is helpful because you don't need all of the charge you would get in Drive.

    You don't use your brake pads when gently braking until you get to 7 miles per hour. The regenerative braking system charges the battery instead.

    Coasting is better than braking, but it is best to glide when possible. Don't worry about the charge on the battery. The car won't let the battery charge go too low.
     
  2. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    The possibly non-intuitive thing here is that for best fuel economy you want to use the brakes *and the battery* as little as possible. All energy conversions unavoidably waste some energy as heat, and going into and out of batteries is especially bad.
     
  3. JimboK

    JimboK One owner, low mileage

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    This is one of the most complete writeups on pulse and glide.

    As for efficient acceleration, I'm not fond of subjective terms like "brisk," "modest," or "gentle." What's modest for one person could be either brisk or gentle for another. Instead, take a look at this for an objective criterion.
     
  4. tom1l21

    tom1l21 Member

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    I'm kind of confused on the whole pulse and glide thing. The way I think it works is that you pick a target speed, say 35 mph. That is the speed you want to travel at. You then pick a pulse speed, which is always going to be more, say 40mph. After you pulse to 40mph, you then glide until you fall back down to say 30, then pulse again to 40mph. Repeat.

    The questions I have is, how should you accelerate when you pulse and based on the link you provided in the previous post, it says you should pulse with the arrows going into the battery. Doesn't this overcharge the battery since you aren't using it (you are either pulsing which is charging the battery, (arrows into battery) or gliding which uses neither the battery or engine). I read "“Pulse” is any acceleration from a lower speed target at a rate to keep from drawing off the pack while also filling the pack (Green Arrow from the MGSet to the Pack on the Energy Monitor screen)." So when exactly do you use the battery?
     
  5. magruder

    magruder Average Member

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    When I pulse, I use the engine and the battery to get back to 40 rather quickly. At any rate, you don't have to worry about over charging the battery, the car won't let that happen. In fact my car HV battery has somewhat diminished capacity from use. I fairly often get up to 8 green bars on the battery gauge. When I stop, the HV battery spins the engine without using fuel to remove any excess charge.

    Regards,
    Dave
     
  6. JimboK

    JimboK One owner, low mileage

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    That's pretty much it. You can adjust your high and low speeds and range as traffic, road conditions, and your own tolerance for going more slowly allow. You'll get respectable results at just about any speed range below 41 MPH, though the slower the better.

    Dave is correct that the car won't allow overcharging. The car manages state of charge (SOC) very well on its own.

    See my link on efficient acceleration. If you keep instantaneous MPG at least half the vehicle speed during ICE-on conditions, you'll keep the ICE within efficient ranges and avoid pulling from the battery. The car will decide for itself, based on SOC, how much energy to send to the battery.

    It might seem counterintuitive that hypermilers generally avoid using the battery. All energy ultimately comes from the ICE. Best is to use that energy immediately for propulsion. Losses occur when energy is converted from one form to another, which is what happens when it is diverted into the battery and then back out when used.
     
  7. tom1l21

    tom1l21 Member

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    I guess this is what makes it easier than trying to get the correct arrows. I'll try to keep the instantaneous mpg around 15-20mpg during the acceleration, that seems to make sense.