Despite the Synthetic Oil requirement, 5000 mile change intervals are still "required"

No guru, but if it hits the ramps, just drive up on a 1x4 or 2x4 in front of the ramps. I almost have to do that with our Honda Fit, but is just grazes the fascia as the wheels start up.

 

Our sales lady called a few minutes ago. She said the service manager got the staff together to tell them to warn their customers to NOT use Mobil 1. The sheet specifically named Mobil 1. The only details that she read said that Toyo synthetic 0-20w had "special additives" that Mobil 1 did not. I told her I use Amsoil 0-20w in all our vehicles and she said that Mobil 1 was the only brand listed. She did say that if Toyota 0-20w synthetic wasn't available, petroleum 5-20w (no brand specified) could be used, but it must be changed back at the next interval.
I asked her if it was a TSB and she said it was just a "can I" question and answer sheet.
What's up with this? Can anyone find any specific details. I am 134 miles from our dealer or I would stop by and get a copy of the sheet.

 

I just sent an email inquiry to Mobil 1 to see if they have a "response."
I'll post if I get one.
Charlie

 

Oh they will have a response alright. This is just the typical "official Toyota products only" line. After all they are in business to make money.

 

as always, i will have dealer changing my oil anyway...they give out coupons for every other change. hopefully synthetic coupons be bigger. with the added obstacles on the 2010, that just makes it that much easier a decision to not do it myself

 

I've been "busy" on a trip so missed most of this. Appears to be lots of concern re 2010 oil changes. So a little reality is in order here!

First, it's not really unusual to have to remove engine undercovers to do oil changes. The anti-Prius (2001 Nissan Pathfinder) required the under cover (steel skid pan) be removed to get at the filter. It was eight bolts and a plastic clip. Oh, and that cover was -HEAVY-!

A cartridge filter is actually better for the environment. Less materials being thrown away and easier to dispose of (they could burn it for example and recover the heat). It IS messier to replace, but is nothing "new". Cars of "yesteryear" used cartridge filters.

I've always used Mobil 1 in Pearl, so the "extra expense" complained about is irrelevant for me. -IF- I end up with a 2010, which is unlikely as Pearl is running just fine thankyou, and only has just over 32,000 km on the odo.

Getting a Prius on ramps is not easy. The common ones you buy are too steep (chin hits ramp before tire). I use two 6"x6" pieces of lumber with a 1" strip nailed on one edge and two 2"x12"x4' boards with a 1" strip nailed to one end (on top). This prevents the board from being levered up once the car is on top and gives warning you are all the way "up". It does require you to ensure the car cannot roll back down the ramp, of course. I find these "ramps" are easier to store than the unwieldy steel ones you can buy. Many fancier additions are possible with these ramps, of course. I used these ramps on a 1993 RX-7, but for Pearl I just reach under to do the changes most of the time. Perhaps I should use the ramps more to do proper inspections of the half shaft boots.

I have -never- used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug, and have never had a leak or a plug fall out! I used to change oil at a service station (remember those?) when I was going to school. I didn't use a torque wrench on the cartridge filters I changed there either, and never had leaks or bolts fall out. Perhaps if you're a beginner.....?
Always, ALWAYS!!! leave the undertray off until you have refilled the oil and started the engine and watched for leaks! I've never seen a leak doing this, but just in case.....

 

My wife's Beetle has a shield plate underneath it, the first time I changed the oil it seemed like a pain. Now I am used to it and it only takes about an extra 2 minutes to remove and put back on.

 

David - could you post a photo or a diagram of your home-built ramps? I'm having trouble visualizing it based on your description. Thanks!

 

I agree that the frequency of oil changes specified seems too frequent in this day and age. Anyone know if there is an email addy where I could report my dissatisfaction to Toyota? I know an email will most likely have little or no affect, but I just have to let them know that not all customers are happy with this and that perhaps they could consider lengthening the intervals if a high quality oil is used. Thanks,

radio

 

Perhaps a petition from Prius Chat folks - all of us are stronger than any of us. I agree = 5K interval, when over the past 10 years average oil change intervals for most carmakers have been expanding? And using Synthetic as well???
Either CYA for protection from oil sludge past issues or Dealer service revenue...Both.

 

I just called the Mobil 1 tech line and they had not heard about this. He said they would "look into it.

 

Here's a drawing of my "ramps". As the Doc said in "Back to the Future", "please excuse the coarse nature of the image".

 

In lieu of ramps - can one use a floor jack with jack stands? Anyone ever use this method? And does the angle make it more challenging to access the panels and drain plug / filter. And does the angle (using ramps or jackstands) allow all oil to flow from the pan - don't know how it's shaped and location of the plug.

Personally, don't know if I'd trust anyone else but the dealer or me to perform this. However I would need to compare the dealer cost (I'm hearing $70) vs the material cost and DIY hassle. Lucky you folks that got the free oil changes thru dealers.

 

First I would like to say that a $70 dollar oil changes sounds high, I would also agree seems like interval could be longer to offset cost.

However

I always try to figure out a way to be happy and have fun.

So asking Toyota to re-look at this is very good idea. Look at thread around what octane to put in car. That worked out okay, they correcting service manual. Yea! Need Prius Team to get involved on this one.

But on the plus side I think there is maintenance issues that go our way that would be spent in other cars.

Brakes last very long time in this car most people go past 100,000 miles on first set
Belts for AC and stuff, we don't have one or two belts to replace
There is got to be more I just don't know... I am thinking if we add some of this cost saving stuff up it may offset oil change price. Not sure. What do you think?

 

The service manager dug up the info today and read it to me on the phone.This came from: Jeff Noise,Technical Service and training Manager for the Chicago Region

 

Where is the meat and potatoes...What did he say! It’s a cliff hanger

 

Perhaps more importantly, WHY did he say Mobil 1 was a no-go?

We need to know the "whys" so that we can understand if Mobil 1 is the only one being ruled out.

I would sure like to have the technical details and then go to Mobil and ask them what do they have to say about it.

 

I have debated using the floor jack/jack stand route vs the ramps "in my own mind" (is that an echo in there? ). It's easier to damage the car using jack stands, but you get more room under the car and it's more secure on them than on ramps. There is a front floor jack point and a rear floor jack point. The front would require a very low floor jack or you have to drive on some 2x lumber to get enough clearance to get the jack under the car. The jack points were in the GII manual, don't know about the GIII. Perhaps Mr. HTML can elucidate on where they are in the GIII.