Fog Lights: Install [Retrofit] fog lights on 2010 Prius?

Fwiw, I ordered a Yaris kit from Conquest Auto (more expensive) and it also had the wrong switch, so I'm not sure it's a Yaris v. Camry thing... I think it is just a matter of whether the particular kit has the right one. Once we figure out which brand(s) have the right switch, we should definitely document that so others following us can search out a specific brand instead of just the best price. Not many of us would order the cheaper kit to save $3 if it meant giving up a perfect switch.

 

Looks like I confused few people here and caused them to end up with a wrong size switch. I bought a kit for Yaris and link I posted later was for Camry but switch shown in the picture looked same as I have so I failed to warn that switch size may be different

However, like Rachael said, even kits for Yaris, switch shown in one kit looked different than other kit by other seller so looks like we just have to be careful on which kit by which seller to buy.

Sorry, I should have listed the link to the one I actually bought. I was only trying to save few more bucks for you guys...

 

Thank you! Now I'm able to print out any or all of the pages - and that link allows page numbering as the document is being printed out.

 

GREAT NEWS FOR YOU FOLKS WHO ARE MESSING WITH THE CONNECTORS/PINS AT THE FOG LIGHTS!, THE TWO CONNECTORS #s (OR THE PINS)MENTIONED IN MY EARLIER POST ARE NOT NECESSARY. MY MECHANIC HEARD BACK FROM TOYOTA AS HE WAS GETTING A BIT OBSESSED WITH DOING THIS RIGHT ALSO. THERE IS A SINGLE HARNESS THAT CONNECTS TO THE TWO FOGLIGHTS THAT INCLUDES THE CONNECTORS,PINS,ETC,...EVERYTHING. PART # 82113-47020 . JUST THE LEAD FROM THE RELAY IN THE FUSE BOX TO THIS HARNESS IS THE ONLY MOD NEEDED(ASSUMING YOU WANT ALL FACTORY FIT AND FINISH). I WONDER ALSO IF ONE COULD BUY A PRIUS AND HAVE ALL THIS INSTALLED BEFORE TAKING DELIVERY,SECURING A FACTORY WARRANTY AS WELL? HOPE THIS HELPS, THE ABOVE PART # SEEMED TO NOT BE EASY TO TRACK DOWN. I AM CERTAIN TOYOTA WILL BE OFFERING THIS OPTION SOON, MORE LATER,GOT GET BACK TO WORK!

 

Has anyone determined the correct source for the 2010 Prius foglight kit (the kit that includes the switch that WILL FIT into one of the unused switch openings in the dash)?

Also, what else is needed? Are the little round fuzzy covers just thrown away?

Thanks.

 

Several people working on it even as we speak and details certain to come soon. I suggest you wait a couple weeks for a complete how-to, unless you're game to become one of the experimenters... in which case, dig right in!

 

I received my Yaris kit. It does indeed have the switch that fits into the blank openings on the left side of the dash.
(Didn't try the right side blank. That blank openinig is a bit different - not sure it would work there.)

There is a bit of a fit issue - the switch doesn't quite go as far in as the blanks do - so it sticks out a bit (maybe 1/8" when switched "off" - it's pretty flush when "on".) And, the retaining blades (the things that you push in to release it from the dash) don't completely engage. I think I can get it to fit better with just a bit of trimming of the switch. But it's acceptable as-is. I don't believe it will fall out, especially since you'll be pushing it in to turn it on or off.

So, the link I provided earlier is the correct kit, it's the same as the one that tjp74 bought:

Yaris 06 07 Liftback OEM Style Foglights Fog Lights:eBay Motors (item 360182342539 end time Sep-01-09 12:14:16 PDT)

Looks like the seller is posting them in "lots" of 5, so if this particular link is expired (sold out), look for another '06-07 Yaris kit from the same seller with the exact same photo. That's what I did when I saw tjp74's link was expired.

Hope this helps, everyone..

(Jim Calvert, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the "fuzzy covers" - but if you're talking about the kind of oval black plastic "surrounds", yes, those are tossed, since they are for a Yaris.)

 

If anyone knows where the yaris switch could be purchased seperately, please let me know. I cannot return the kit i got, and I do need another switch. Thanks.

 

There are no markings on the switch indicating the manufacturer. If I locate any info, I'll be sure to post.

 

I bought a separate lighted switch that works fine in the blank just above the dome switch. You just drill a round hole and push it through. I bought the Toyota lights and bessel from Toyota. I wanted it to look stock, and most after market fog lights will fail Va. inspection if it doesn't have the DOT indication on the lens. The relay trigger is the low beam lights and the power came from the fuse box. There is a main wire that comes from the battery in the back. I didn't want to tax any existing circuits like I have heard some people describe. I did have a problem with the connection to the bulb itself. I bought the little connectors but Toyota could not come up with the pins with wire pig tails. The bulbs go in facing downward and there is a plastic piece to keep water off the back of the lights. I just used slip-on connectors and so far, so good. Toyota said I had to buy the wiring harness to get the complete connectors.

The lights are fused with a separate fuse and turn off with the high beams. It think it cost me about $350 dollars for parts and there is a boot to pass the wire through the fire wall. I will take some pictures for critiquing. Also, Toyota used lock tight on the threads of the bolt that connects the turn signal housing and the plastic fog light blanks. Be carefully because everything is plastic and very easy to break off. Good luck, the fog lights are worth it.

 

(Jim Calvert, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the "fuzzy covers" - but if you're talking about the kind of oval black plastic "surrounds", yes, those are tossed, since they are for a Yaris.)[/quote]

Sorry I wasn't more clear. I am talking about the round dummy covers that go where the fog lights would normally be installed in the 2010 Prius. They look "fuzzy" to me. Maybe I need to clean my eyeglasses.

 

Gotcha. Yes, you can throw those away, once you have replaced them with the Toyota OEM covers:
81482-47020 - cover fog lamp L/H, and
81481-47020 - cover fog lamp R/H

These covers do not come in the Yaris kit.

 

I'm thinking if we wait, they'll be out soon enough.

 

I was planning to trigger the relay off of the low beams also. Were you able to get to that in the fuse box under the hood?

 

I just got my fog light covers from Toyota. The lights from the Camry kit don't fit them. I have a Yaris kit that is supposed to be here tomorrow and I hope the lights and switch from that kit fit.

 

I'm shocked considering that it is the same part number. Can you post pictures? Why don't they fit?

 

You are right and I'm an idiot, not for the first time I might add. I wasn't sticking the two tabs into the cover. There is a small gap between the cover and the light and no screw came with the kit so I can't put it together completely. Few bad iphone pictures attached.

 

For those of you who are still determined to use the existing fog fuse and relay circuit, here's some more info on the 82998-24350 pin contact for Connector 2C pin 8 (fog relay output):

My dealer tried to order this pin and said that he was not able to get it, except with the hundreds of $$ wire harness!!! However, Toyota told him that a Lexus dealer could order the pin (?!) I then called a Lexus dealer, and lo and behold, he was able to order the pin (after some digging) - it could take anywhere from 2 weeks to 4 months to get it, and at a cost of $23 per pin! I said no thanks.

I then recalled that when I opened the dash, I noticed an "unused" connector just hanging (not connected to anything) near the 2C and L7 connectors, next to the junction block. It is actually the L8 connector. On my IV, it only has three wires coming out of it: white, black, and white w/black stripe. According to the EWD's, these three wires are used for the LED headlights (which my IV does not have.) Where am I going with all of this? The white/black stripe lead appears to have the same pin type as the 2C pin 8 connection.

This next part is not for anyone who frustrates easily...But then again, if you never plan to have LED headlights on your car using these lines (and a different ECU), it doesn't matter at all if you damage this pin or connector trying to get it out, if it's not connected to anything.

It took some doing, but I finally got the pin out of the connector. The connector kind of "snaps apart" in the middle, separating the section with the small pins from the section with the large pins. (And it snaps right back together again) Separating these halves I think is critical to being able to pull the pin out. Use rachaelseven's drawing for this pin (post #207) to see how you need to apply pressure with a VERY small blade (like eyeglass screw-size or smaller) screwdriver from inside the pin, upward (just in front of the small square opening in the plastic through which you can see the pin) about 1/4" into the connector housing. That pushes the plastic "tab" that is part of the connector housing upward and out of the pin, allowing the pin to be slid back toward the wire end and out of the connector. This is not easy, and you only have one pin to work with, so be careful..

Once it's out of the connector, simply cut the wire, and use heat shrink tubing to seal the end of the wire. I actually stuck the sealed end back into the connector housing, so it didn't look like it had been messed with..

The crimp on the pin is not made for 16ga wire, but if the crimp is opened up and you solder the wire to the pin, you should be fine. I haven't yet done this, so I don't know for sure whether it will fit in 2C - but I'm 90% confident that it will.

Where there's a will, there's a way.....

I can guarantee that you'll never find this pin at your neighborhood Radio Shack, and I spent several hours searching at Mouser, DigiKey, etc. for a similar pin. Found some that were similar, but the sizes and locking tabs just didn't look like they would fit the 2C connector.

Now, has anyone found a good path through the firewall?

 

Wow, now THAT's some useful information! Thank you! The black and white out of that connect appear to be destined for the headlight assemblies (in the engine compartment, of course). So the question I have, is if we can simply use one of those wires? Instead of cut off the pin and reuse it, maybe just move the pin to the other connector, find the other end and connect it to the power lead of our fog light harness? Does the wire appear to be of sufficient gauge for 15A or is it just a signal wire? The EWD makes it look to be a signal wire, so I would not be surprised if it's tiny. But even if it's only a signal wire, we could add the relay from the kit in the engine compartment easily enough and at least we'd be through the firewall. Didn't hawkmoon say further up the thread there there was a hanging connector near the headlamp area? Could that be the other end of this circuit? Could we really have an unused circuit that goes all the way there just sitting waiting to be used?

 

Brilliant!