Enginer PHEV Test Pilots: Mpg reports and important data

Hey Joanna,

I guess you could do the same maneuver the night before after first charging up the kit, and then you can top up the kit as well again after topping off the stock battery too, no?

I'm getting my 4kWh system installed next week, finally. So I don't have experience in how the charging logistics work.

Questions for anyone:

Once I get home is it ok to plug the kit in and leave it that way until I use the car again? I mean this thing has a smart charger right?

My understanding is that it takes about 2-3 hours to charge a depleted kit. correct?

Can the balancers do their thing when the kit is plugged in?

Thanks

 

The current sensor is inside the box on the left labeled "STOCK BATTERY MODULE"

 

In this picture the current sensor is the white rectangle in the lower left with the red wire passing thru it....

 

ATFSI Accordingly to the picture provided (courtesy of CHENYJ), the connection points of the Enginer system withing the OEM NiMH assembly does NOT go through the "HALL SENSOR" as you stated more than once; hence, no instrument, being Scangauge or CANview will never see the extra current injected to the HSD to compute extra SOC or DOD or battery health.
[/IMG]

 

The wire that you mention is ORANGE and always has been ORANGE & not "red".
ORANGE color in the AUTOMOTIVE industry is a "SAE International" standard color code for High Voltage wiring power distribution and adopted by all automotive manufacturers for EV propulsion.

 

I stand corrected ....it only looks red on my monitor....bye the bye, it is the current flowing from the Enginer pack to the HV pack that goes thru the sensor not the wire (orange, red or whatever)

 

atfsi, as a mater of fact, the "Hall Sensor" provides a reading of the current flow for Coulomb counting so the Battery ECU can report Battery DOD and SOC.
The external applied power from the Enginer system is handled by the Batt ECU as an extra power, like if it were REGEN while breaking because the "Hall sensor" reading is directional, or outflow or inflow, but never bidirectional at the same time.
For the "Hall Sensor" to count an extra power and to report it through the CAN, this extra power must go through the "Hall sensor" at the same time and with the negative (-) NiMH 6 gauge orange lead.

 

That's absolutely correct. The "Hall Sensor" provides a reading of the current flow from the Enginer pack to the HV pack for Coulomb counting so the Battery ECU can report Battery DOD and SOC. Any current from the Enginer pack flowing in the other direction is not counted (that's why chenyj said 18 + 3 = 21) A correct monitor for power input would be placed somewhere in the line from the Enginer pack.

 

Second trial, this time from a full charge, 42 miles (w/ stop) to red LED ON @ 73MPG or roughly 13 e-miles this time. The batteries are still spending a lot of time balancing

 

FYI, It wold be nice of you that when you "copy and paste" other peoples text to be included in your paragraphs like your own, to kindly "quote" the reference of origin.

 

Thanks Jo,

Anyone, please correct me if any of these statements is false:

If the car is "Ready" the charged enginer kit will charge the oem battery. I believe Joanna implied that this can take the oem batt from 3-4 bars to 8 bars in 15-20 minutes

And if/when the oem battery gets to 8 bars (80% SOC) the prius will use an electric motor to spin up the ICE to dump some electricity trying to get the SOC down to 75% - meanwhile if the kit is on, it will still be dumping juice into the oem battery during this ICE spin. I expect the ICE spin dumps at a faster rate than the kit can charge.

I believe that this ICE spinning maneuver is the only means the Prius has to dump excess electricity from the battery. And this can only happen when the car is "Ready".

So to anyone, Is Joanna correct that it is harmful for the oem battery to regularly hold a 7-8 bar (75-80%) SOC overnight?

And does the car have a way to dump juice when the car is off and would it attempt to do so if the charge is high but below 80%?

Anyone?

 

It seems working according to Joanna. You might waste some of the electricity if you charge it too much and the MG1 motor will spin to prevent OEM battery pack from overcharging.

The effect is not just storing energy in the OEM battery. It actually pushing the SOC so high that Prius will try to use more electric assistance which our Enginer kit will contribute.

I think Dkroushl tried this but he did it at the end of the drive instead of beginning of the drive. The SOC will leak overnight. Joanna's would be more effective.

 

Can the kit be plugged into the grid AND still "on" and charging the oem battery when the car is "on" and parked?

 

Looks that way..but I havn't tried that yet.....I think the charger and the converter are independent....

 

I try to park my car in my garage with the battery at green or nearly there. That way I can drive to the train station in EV mode only. If it is 1/2 scale, I can't make it in EV mode. I have never noticed the charge drop over night. Is your battery weak, or does the temperature drop a lot over night? Anyway, I am working on an inexpensive plug in charger to charge the traction battery so I can always leave with 80% charge.

 

Third trial, from a full charge, 58.7 miles (w/ 1 stop and cold start) to red LED ON @ 72.8 MPG or roughly 18 e-miles this time. The batteries are spending a bit less time balancing now. It will be interesting to see if it continues to improve.

 

Could be that the voltage seen by the converter exceeds its MAX input voltage if the charger is on...do we have that spec ?