Navigation Input Override (Speed Sensor Bypass)

For those of us that have never wired their own circuit but are always willing to try something new... is there anyway that a step-by-step tutorial could be put together on what parts (Radio Shack, I assume) one would need to buy and what order one would need to assemble them in to get this thing to work.

I don't know about others, but personally I have been looking to learn a thing or two about amateur electronics and circuit building for awhile... and the practicality of this circuit is the perfect excuse for me to jump in and get my feet wet.

Is this circuit too complicated to understand and build for a true beginner?

 

It's actually a pretty good circuit for a beginner in all likelihood - 555 timer circuits are often among the first presented in many project books. However, a complete primer in how to solder and build circuits would be considerably off-topic for the thread. I would suggest you get a beginning circuits book - you might even find one at Radio Shack - and just make this circuit one of your projects once you have mastered soldering and learned to read a basic schematic.

 

i installed the Prestigious Society Navi hack today and it works perfect. i created a thread to help others.

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...s-society-navi-hack-installed.html#post967285

thanks for posting about this mod, made it easy for me.

 

How does one identify the speed input wire on the 2010 prius?
Thanks

 

It's a gray 5-pin connector (L42) going into the back of the NAV head unit. The middle wire (#3) is a violet wire. That's the SPD sensor wire, which needs to be tapped into per this mod.

 

A question for those who have had the Nav out.

Does it look like there is another place to access that violet wire to prevent having to take the whole Nav unit out?

Does it run underneath the dash anywhere that could be accessed?

 

This same signal is fed to several ECU's - and you need to cut it to only the NAV unit, or you'll affect a number of systems (which would probably not be good, and would likely generate trouble codes that would need to be cleared using a diagnostic tool)

There is only one other point that it could be cut, at connector 4A pin 68, which is a large 84-pin connector block, buried pretty deep within the dash, behind a bunch of other ECUs. You'd basically need to take a good share of the dash apart.

The L42 connector is the only reasonable place to cut (and replace) this signal to the NAV. Removing the NAV unit is not too bad.

 

Thanks for the info.

I just "looks" pretty heavy the way people have mentioned needing a partner to hold it and I dont want to scratch or damage it trying to pry something up or out.

I guess its one of those things that you dont know how easy it is till you do it.

Its just so visible should you make a mistake, there is no room for error like there would be under the dash etc.

 

It is a bit heavy, but manageable. I'd recommend placing a "pad" of some type (I used several layers of a thick towel) over the rest of the console (A/C controls, etc) as you pull it out, to prevent scratches, etc. That way you can "rest" it on he pad as you disconnect the several (eight, if I recall) connectors from the back of the unit. You can't pull it out very far before you have to disconnect.

As far as a pry tool goes, I actually used a soft plastic (vinyl) putty knife. It didn't mar the finish at all. But most of the plastic panels come out just with your fingers, no tool required. Just have to be slow and steady and use a gentle touch to see in what direction it is separating (don't "yank"!). They don't always come out perpendicular to their surface. The TIS documentation helps a lot with disassembly. In my opinion, well worth the $15 for a couple days of access.

 

Hi Guys,
I'm Frank from Italy, i got my new prius yesterday, i've my brain still messed up with all the funcion, . Bt i want to tell you that the navi works while the car is in moving. So i think that you can ask to the dealer to make it possible on your car.
sorry for my bad english.

 

Thanks for that. Does your car use DVD or hard drive for the Navi?

 

Navi si with hard drive!!i'm studying to raw backup all the data of the HD

 

US NAV is DVD and different, which is why the dealer cannot enable input while moving. If you are able to back up the data from your NAV, it could help us figure it out. But the differences between the units make even that unlikely. Our only option here for now seems to be a hardware hack.

 

For all the new Toyota and Lexus vehicle in Euro, Toyota has permanently removed the restriction. I believe its because other automakers in Europe do not impose such restrictions.

If I am not mistaken, the Euro version of navigation is different and for people who exports US spec vehicles to Euro can't seem to change their system to have the navigation works properly there. Definitely let us know if there is a permanent software fix.

 

Sounds like the switch Moon has rigged up is the ticket if you don't mind cutting into the car. Have you got it to give continuous access and then return it to standard GPS function?

 

The two circuits that have been posted in this thread (hawkmoon77's and mine, which are very similar) will give continuous access when switched on, and then return to normal GPS operation when turned off. Both circuits will result in inaccurate position indication while switched on, but will return to correct position within 30 seconds (typically much less, less than 10 seconds) once the switch is turned off. Now that I have used it for a while, I can't imagine not having it available. There are just way too many functions locked out while driving.

 

Not trying to be lazy, but there is a lot of material in this one thread. Can you post a link or post number as to which posts discribe what you or Moon did to make your switch?

Thanks

 

No problem, I know it's a long thread.

Hawkmoon's circuit post is #71; but I believe he made some changes to it based upon some new info, and I don't believe he re-posted his new one.

My circuit is on post #145 (page 15), and it's what I have actually installed and am using right now - and it works great. The NAV line you need to cut is detailed in post #11. It's pin 3 (violet wire in the middle) of connector L42, a 5-pin gray connector that goes into the back of the NAV unit. I've indicated in my post #145 schematic where each side of the cut wire (NAV vs. wheel signal) needs to connect. You need to adjust the 100K pot upward until the NAV locks you out, and then back until it releases again (and maybe just a bit lower for good measure.)

 

I looked up your post and while the diagram looks wonderful, I can not make heads or tails of it. I am a History degree, not an EE degree I understand you cut the violet wire coming from the cables to the back of the nav system. How exactly did you make your switch? Simple terms would be best if you can.

Also, if you added things behind the console how do they get back out into the cabin of the car when everything is put back together?

 

I dont think its that simple.. thats the problem.
This is a somewhat advanced thread for the layperson "meaning someone not in the field of electronics" to understand.

As in all degrees, After many years in the field, I think its easy to assume everybody knows what we know and we forgot we had to learn it somewhere besides high school to get where we are at.