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ICE Radiant Heat Reflector for the Gen II

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by Rokeby, Oct 12, 2009.

  1. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    I've got a piece of "super insulation/radiant barrier," made up of heavy
    duty aluminum foil bonded to both sides of 1/4 inch thick plastic foam.
    The piece is about 36 in. by 48 in. I'm thinking about using it as a
    radiant heat reflector/thermal blanket over the top of the ICE in my
    Gen II. The goal is to help retain heat as the temps drop and help keep
    FE/MPGs up. Here's a view of the engine bay:

    IMG_0285.jpg

    I won't cover the electronics package on the right, as I don't
    want/need it kept warm. By cutting the sheet in half, I can extend
    the blanket about halfway down between the ICE and the radiator and
    keep well away from the serpentine belt on the far passenger side of
    the ICE. By feeling over the top and behind the ICE, I can cover it,
    and maybe extend the insulation /barrier half way down the back side.
    Here's a picture of the insulation/barrier in place:

    IMG_0287.jpg

    I can work the two pieces of insulation around the various bits of
    piping and wiring at the front of the ICE, and between the ICE and
    electrical boxes going to the rear. Here is a view looking down
    between the ICE and the radiator with the insulation in place:

    IMG_0289.jpg

    As I'm not going to try to mold the insulation tightly to the
    block/head, there will still be an airspace and some moving air
    between the insulation/barrier and the block. I expect that the only
    real contribution to heat retention will be to reflect radiant heat back
    to the block when I'm stopped in traffic with the ICE off and block
    temps plummet. I'm thinking the insulation/barrier will stay in place
    due the many bends and curves created in working it into place.

    I use grill blocking already. I'm using a ScanGaugeII, so I can monitor
    ICE temps.

    My questions are:
    * Have any of my fellow Gen II Prianistas experimented with
    something like this?
    * If so, did you see any noticeable/measurable FE/MPG results?
    * Did you encounter any problems, or incur any damage?

    I welcome constructive comments, suggestions, concerns, etc.

    (I know what you're thinking....
    No, there isn't enough left over foil/foam/foil to make an insulated
    aluminum foil hat. :rolleyes: )
     
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  2. PriusLewis

    PriusLewis Management Scientist

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    If possible you might want to place this under the air cleaner box. Heating the intake air reduces thermal efficiency of the combustion process and, therefore, requires more gas to produce less HP. This is why performance engines use cold air intake (hood scoop or under bumper intake) - the cooler air is denser, producing better performance.
     
  3. a_gray_prius

    a_gray_prius Rare Non-Old-Blowhard Priuschat Member

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    I imagine this would be an effective upgrade for Prius owners who live in cold climates, especially in cases where the engine runs simply to maintain heater temperature.

    However, I have significant concerns about the effect of heat retention in places where temperatures exceed 100 degrees F. Fundamentally, my question is: At the top range of normal environmental temperatures, could this modification have negative consequences related to overheating?
     
  4. usbseawolf2000

    usbseawolf2000 HSD PhD

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    The hood already has a layer heat retaining material. You may be better off covering the bottom of the engine/transaxle block. They are openly exposed under the car.

    I am thinking about heat shielding them as well as the cat converter with fiber glass insulation.

    I wonder if it can handle the temp of the cat converter. I am also concern about the cat getting too hot and possibly causing damage. Anyone with knowledge about it? Is this a bad idea?

    I am not concern about overheating the ICE and transaxle because they have active cooling with coolant through radiator.
     
  5. KJF

    KJF Member

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    I have been looking for some foil-backed foam material such as this for similar purposes. Where did you get this material?
     
  6. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    1 person likes this.
  7. Politburo

    Politburo Active Member

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    Overheating a cat can damage it.
     
  8. drees

    drees Senior Member

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    While cooler air can make more power, hotter, less dense air can actually improve fuel economy since being less dense, allows you to open your throttle body more (and the throttle body is a huge restriction).

    So without actually testing it, I'd say don't worry about it. :)
     
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  9. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    I thought of that, but it's against the "easy-in, easy-out" nature of
    this project as initially conceived. That said, on a 30 mi. trip
    earlier today, I monitored both OAT (Outside Air Temp) on the
    MFD, and IAT (Inlet Air Temp) on the ScanGauge for the first time.
    Outside air was 55 defF, Inlet Air varied beteen 62 and 88 degF.,
    with a peak of 92 when stopped with the ICE off. The SG booklet
    says that IAT will be "a few degrees" above OAT. That seems like
    more than a "few," but since I've got no base line to compare
    against, I'm going to have to do some data gathering on this.

    I'm also going to check and see how easily the air box is to
    remove/replace. If it's quick and easy, I may try this. Thanks.

    Sorry. My OP is less than perfect; I didn't make it clear that I am
    considering this only for cold weather use this coming winter.

    I pulled and poked at that when I opened the hood. I didn't see any
    obvious stuff to suggest that it would act as a radiant heat
    reflector. I toyed with the idea of putting the stuff I got behind it,
    but decided it was too far from the block itself.

    As I drove around today watching various temps on the SG, I
    thought about this as well. The oil sump is pretty much hanging
    out in the breeze under there. Wrapping it would seem to be a good
    idea, although I'm not in a position to get under there easily, if at
    all. You would also probably need a thin gauge, well attached
    aluminum shield to protect from rocks, pebbles, small road debris,
    etc. Keeping the shield in place in heavy snow/slush would
    be problematic.

    For those interested in further reading, here is a thread I found
    over at EcoModder:
    Insulated Engine? - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling - EcoModder.com

    Buried in that thread is this jewel of a link:
    Randall's Insight - MIMA Honda Insight Modified Integrated Motor Assist

    Holy Cow! a permanent, zippered closure, multi-layered ICE Cozy
    sewed of some unnamed fabric/foil/insulation laminate. Hot stuff!
     
  10. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    I've made two out and back trips of about 30 miles with the radiant
    heat reflector/barrier in place. It is too early to quantify any benefit it
    may provide. It appears that initial ICE warm up is hastened, WT cools
    more slowly at ICE-off stops and no-arrows glide, and steady-state
    running block temps are somewhat higher. I'm holding off putting
    numbers to these conditions as I collect more data over a longer
    period of time, maybe a week or so.

    Some casual observations:

    For the first time, I've been simultaneously monitoring three temps:
    Outside Air Temp (OAT) on the MSD,
    ICE cooling Water Temp (WT),
    and Inlet Air Temp (IAT)
    on my ScanGaugeII. Fascinating stuff. In the discussion that follows,
    OAT is between 55-57 degF.

    Inlet air Temp is a strange beast. I don't know where it is measured,
    but it is subject to great variability:
    * it appears to be located close to or in the engine block, head, or
    intake manifold because after turing the car off, over a period of ~30
    min. temps rise dramatically up to 110 deg in one case. As the car
    sits, WT slowly falls, IAT slowly rises. When the two roughly match,
    they then fall roughly together. The same thing happens when you sit
    ICE-off at a light or in a long, no-arrows glide.
    * it appears to react to large volumes of air passing it because with
    the ICE running over 2 or 3 minutes, the temp begins to drop.

    In general driving around, IAT runs from 5 to 55 degF above OAT. The
    higher differentials are reached as the car fully warms up, this is well
    beyond the Stage 4 warm up period, at least 20 minutes from start up.
    Also, higher differentials occur in roughly steady state driving at
    freeway speeds.

    I haven't puzzled out what meaningful information I can learn from
    further observation of IAT. However, I do wonder how to make head
    or tail about the earlier postings about high IA temp with lower
    density air and conversely low IA temps and higher density air. With
    the 55 degF swings that i've see in very gentle driving in moderate
    OATs, there must be a whole lot of computer based compensation
    going on in real time. I suppose this is one reason why computer
    controlled fuel injection is so vastly superior to a carburetor.
     
  11. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Time for a preliminary assessment of this proposed cold weather
    thermal retention enhancement.

    I've been doing my regular ~28 mi. round trip commute and weekend
    errands runs with the radiant barrier in place on my Gen II for 13 days
    now. Temps have been between 43 and 63 degF. I'm also running a
    full upper grill block, and all but the lowest slot on the lower grill
    blocked.

    The radiant barrier seems to be having a positive FE/MPG effect. :rockon:

    On my commutes, I'm seeing an apparent 2-3 MPG gain. On the stop,
    park, and go weekend errand runs, the gain may be as much as 5
    MPG. In addition, I am seeing an apparent 5-10 degF higher coolant
    temps across the board.

    I am being intentionally fuzzy about the possible gains. What with
    driving safely and using hyper-mileing tactics, I haven't been able to
    record hard coolant temp data despite having a ScanGauge to read
    coolant temps and get trip and daily MPG numbers. I have made
    numerous runs over very familiar routes, and I am seeing both MPG
    numbers and coolant temps that are higher than I would have
    expected to see without the barrier.

    And that friends is about as good as I can do. FWIW, I plan on keeping
    my reflector in all winter.

    I'd like to encourage the members who have the more sophisticated
    monitoring gear and data recording capabilities to give the barrier a
    try and get some good, hard numbers so we can know for sure if this
    is worth adding to our cold weather bags of tricks... er, thermal
    retention enhancements.