Side moldings modification

DISCLAIMER: INSTRUCTIONS HERE ARE WHAT I HAD TO DO - IF YOU FOLLOW THEM, YOUR RESULTS COULD VARY DEPENDING ON YOUR SKILL LEVEL. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OUTCOME. If you feel you cannot perform this, get a body shop to install your moldings. 1) You should decide on the height you want to put the moldings. They suggested 13 1/4 inches from the bottom of the door edge. For me, that was too low but again, I live in a city where SUVs and jacked up pick-up trucks rule so I went for 17 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the doors. 2) That reference line is for the TOP edge of the molding. Then I put several tick marks in wax pencil (easily wiped off) and did a mock up of the moldings with vertical masking tape (see pictures). Once mocked up, I used a level on the lower edge of the moldings to insure they were straight. You might have to undo the tape to re-secure it for straightness. Take a look after alignment from different perspectives to be sure the location is eye-appealing. 3) Then I took a wax pencil and traced an outline where the final location for the moldings would be placed. 4) Remove the mock ups and see the outline in wax pencil. I discovered that I could move the edge locations pretty close to the door seams to reduce the "gap" I did several test door-opens with the mock ups in place to be sure they would clear before committing to a location. 5) Now use masking tape and put lengths on the upper line but covering that wax line by 1/8 inch. Then put the moldings back up with vertical masking tape (as shown) using the lower wax line for a reference. Again, use a level to be sure they are straight. Take a ball point pen and scribe a line on horizontal masking tape you just applied over the upper wax line using the top of the molding as the straight edge. This is your final mounting reference line. 6) Remove mock up molding again and put masking tape 1/8 inch over the lower wax line. Also, put masking tape 1/4 over the wax lines on each end. The area you now see surrounded by masking tape is the treatment area that you put the etching compound. Again, you should clearly see the ball point pen line on the upper tape. This is the "money" line! 7) After BOTH sides of the car have been prepped with masking tape, you can use the etching compound. It is tricky and you don't have much time. First, clean off the masked area with Windex and then use the alcohol pads provided to get the adhesion zone of the car completely clean of dirt and wax. 8) Now squeeze the "crush zone" of the etching compound and carefully scribble the masked area on the car finish with the applicator. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY OF THIS MATERIAL ON OTHER PARTS OF THE FINISH!! 9) Let the etching compound dry about 15 minutes. 10) Now it's time to mount the moldings. Remove the backing from the molding. Tilted up, get the molding lined up on ball point pen line front to back. Be sure it's exactly where you want it - you get one shot to get it right! Lower it down to the car and press it on. Burnish gently to get it secured in place. Now do the same for the next piece. I started with the front door and did the rear door last. 11) Carefully peal back the masking tape which is slightly behind the molding. The adhesive tape on the molding is recessed 1/8 inch so that's why you protected the car finish slightly above the adhesive zone. 12) Wipe off any trace of wax pencil by rubbing with a clean soft cloth or using a gentle wax cleaner (I bought a bottle of Acryli-Clean). You can refer to the provided instructions, but they were not as specific as I needed.