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Any plumbers want to advise a DIYer?

Discussion in 'Fred's House of Pancakes' started by nineinchnail1024, Nov 16, 2009.

  1. nineinchnail1024

    nineinchnail1024 New Member

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    Hey, I know professional plumbers hate DIYers (and I don't blame them, I hate fixing other people's mistakes too), but I am on a tight budget and need a bit of advice. I'm doing a kitchen remodel, and I just cut the hole in the ceiling for the range vent ductwork. Of course, with my luck, directly across that hole is a cold water line that feeds a pot filler behind the stove. The line drops into the wall behind the stove through a hole drilled in the top plate, so pushing the pipe to one side or the other is not an option. I have to find a way to re-route the line around the opening for the range hood ductwork. All of the lines in my house are ZURN-PEX, and I'm aware of the poor reputation of the product. Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to have all of my lines replaced. My plan is to use two angled "Sharkbite" fittings to re-route the pipe around the hole. Other than replacing all of the pipes in my house with copper, is this the most acceptable solution?

    Thanks in advance,
    -Nine
     
  2. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Presumably you *should* be able to cut and splice PEX wherever
    you want, but it might take hundreds of bucks of special tools
    that you don't want to buy. A sharkbite *might* make a worthwhile
    patch but while I've looked at the fittings, I've never actually
    tried them in practice. Supposedly they work; can't speak to
    the longevity but they claim up and down it's permanent.
    .
    _H*
     
  3. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Use real PEX fittings to reroute the water line. As for copper, PEX is a better long term solution. While copper pipe used to be considered the best option, time has shown that it is susceptible to pin holing from hard water corrosion.

    Tom
     
  4. nineinchnail1024

    nineinchnail1024 New Member

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    I looked at the pex clamps, but they require a special tool to crimp down. The tool is 60 bucks (about four times the cost of the two sharkbite fittings) and I'd probably never use it again. Is there any way to clamp down the pex clamps without having to spring for the crimping tool? Also, do you recommend against the sharkbite fittings based on their cost or do you believe them to be an inferior product?

    Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to this.
     
  5. nineinchnail1024

    nineinchnail1024 New Member

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    To clear it up for anyone who might not have seen them before, these are the fittings I was planning on using. Of course, they seem too good to be true (aside for price), and things that seem too good to be true usually are...

     
  6. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I am very suspicious of magic fittings for fixing plumbing, especially when the fix will be sealed away inside of a wall or ceiling. I don't have any experience with those particular fittings, so my opinion is only general.

    There are some lower cost PEX crimpers that are made to be used with vise grip pliers. If it were me, I would buy or borrow a real tool, but the cheaper ones should work if you are careful.

    Tom
     
  7. nineinchnail1024

    nineinchnail1024 New Member

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    I went ahead and used the sharkbite clamps. They seem to be working fine, but time will tell. In any case, they are at an accessible location in the attic, so should they begin to fail, I can replace them easily. Thanks for the advice.
     
  8. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Well, a bit late as you've already done the repair. I would have just rented the tool. Most big-boxes offer a good quality PEX crimper with both 1/2 and 3/4 dies.

    With a bit of practise, its easy enough to crimp the ring properly. The hard part is usually getting the PEX onto the barb
     
  9. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    I was under the impression it was water chemistry (Particularly pH) and disinfection method (Chlorine dioxide gas vs chloramine or other methods) that was thought to cause pinholing.

    Throw into the equation, the possibilty of a galvanic effect, and there are a lot of variables involved. But I have noticed the most pinholing appears to occur with hard water, which is provided by a water treatment facility
     
  10. nthach

    nthach New Member

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    The Sharkbites are actually great for when you're in a pinch or have a tricky piping situation. I would IMO used a crimp-on connector. The Sharkbites use a retainer and a O-ring for a "interference" fit which forms the seal. The "recommended" press-on fittings are kind of like hydraulic fittings: PureFlow Next Generation Fitting System
     
  11. nineinchnail1024

    nineinchnail1024 New Member

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    Ideally, I would have preferred to use the crimp fittings, but in order to route the pipe the way I needed to, I had to cut the PEX about 1.5 inches out of the top plate in the wall, so there was no way I could have got to that connection with a crimping tool. I'll try to post pics to show what was done. Thanks again.
     
  12. thePimpsons

    thePimpsons New Member

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    You did the right thing her, not a lot else you could've done in this situation.
     
  13. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    FWIW, you're not "supposed" to put the sharkbite fittings behind a wall, in a ceiling, etc...etc.
    However (comma!) I've used them with zero issues for exposed applications like toilet and sink installs, laundry mods, etc.
    I've used them on copper and PEX and would trust them as much as the traditional fittings for either all things considered, and in my own house----plumbing code notwithstanding.

    I think you'll be fine.

    Again.....FWIW.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Back a couple years before the first post here :), I replaced all the galvanized in my house with PEX and the Watts Quick-Connect fittings (very similar in principle to the Shark-Bite, less ostentatious marketing/branding; certainly Watts is a familiar name in plumbing). Pulled a permit, had the city inspectors over, everybody happy. Zero problems so far.

    I have a house with very little concealed work; in case of any trouble, I could generally just reach up and fix it.

    My favorite part was a few years later, when some of my runs were in the way of something else I was doing, and I just took them down and rerouted them, undoing and redoing the fittings with my bare hands. :)

    I believe I checked at the time and found the Watts fittings were listed as ok for concealed work. You might check that yourself before taking my word for it.

    I went to their web site just now and see they seem to have two lines of the fittings now, polypropylene and polysulfone. I think they were all polysulfone when I was buying them. Can't say anything about how they compare.

    -Chap

    I should maybe add here that a year ago I helped my sister replace a failed connection at her water heater. That had been done in the "professional" style, PEX with a crimp band around a brass fitting. She has weird water that had eaten right through the brass fitting; it was spritzing around the kitchen through a tiny crack, and easily snapped clean off when I started working on it. The PEX itself was fine. We replaced the fitting with a Shark-Bite. (Would have used the Watts but her local Lowe's didn't carry them, and I hadn't packed my spares collection for the visit.)
     
    #14 ChapmanF, May 29, 2018
    Last edited: May 29, 2018