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2001 Prius Problems (Error Codes Included)

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by hollyO, Dec 4, 2009.

  1. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Hi there, I'm hoping I can get a little more insight to what's going wrong with my 2001. The the triangle exclamation mark, the check engine, and the car exclamation mark lights are all on and the following trouble codes came up: P3191, P3000, P3101, P3006

    From what I've read so far it sounds like the main traction battery needs to be replaced (especially because of the P3006 code), but could there be other problems that need to be fixed? The local guy thought that the computer, traction battery, and engine coil packs all may need to be replaced/updated and sent me to the dealer where the car is to be looked at Monday. By "computer" does he mean the ECM or ECU, and is that likely?

    Also, as far as I know neither the TSB EG 011-03 or the SSC-40G work has been done, despite having been to the dealer a number of times after they came out. Is there any chance either of these are relevant to the problem?

    I'd also just like to say thanks in advance for the couple of people that seem to respond to almost every single post. Very cool of you guys, thanks for taking the time!
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I see you've done your research.

    DTC P3006 means that the battery module SOC is uneven. Usually the traction battery is bad.

    DTC P3191 and P3101 refer to an engine no-start or low power situation. If your car is still covered under the federal emissions warranty (8 yr/80K miles), try to get the current revision ECM (aka engine ECU) installed as TSB EG011-03 described.

    If not under warranty, try new iridium spark plugs, and check the condition of the spark igniters. Make sure the engine oil viscosity is 5W-30 and not overfilled. Then if you still have a problem see if you can purchase the correct part number engine ECU (listed in the TSB ) as a salvage part which might cost ~$300 or so.
     
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  3. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    And clean the throttle plate and have someone test the 12 VDC auxilary battery.

    Bob Wilson
     
  4. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    Hi hollyO new poster. Do you know if this vehicle has received the HV battery reseal, SSC 40G? If not, it is a no-cost, no time limit. campaign.
     
  5. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Thanks so much, you guys, for all the info and suggestions.

    The car hasn't had the SSC-40 G battery reseal, so I will definitely bring that up to the dealer. Also, in 2006 I had an episode where the car had a moment of displaying the warning lights and no acceleration. After about 10 minutes I started the car up again and it was fine. I took it in to the dealer where they told me I needed a new accelerator, which I decided not to have done. Should they have done the TSB EG011-03 update then? My car is no longer under warranty, but if the update should have been completed then under warranty, I'll probably bring that up too.
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Depends upon the DTC logged at that time. The TSB would have been applicable only if DTC P3191/P3101 had appeared.

    However if you were told that you needed a new accelerator pedal back in 2006, have you had subsequent incidents of pressing the pedal & no acceleration? It would be unusual for this to have only happened once.
     
  7. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    There is a DTC related to that pesky accelerator pedal (P1120, with several subcodes) but in my experience the code is not always set when the pedal provides low-quality information.

    Could be an issue for Holly, or not. Unusual for it to happen only once but not beyond the bounds of imagination.
     
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  8. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Unfortunately, I didn't get the codes from the episode in 2006. I have had incidents of pressing the pedal and getting a sluggish response, but no other incidences of no response. Is there a chance there's a record at the dealer of the codes (if any) that came up in 2006?
     
  9. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Just got the call from the dealer; they're telling me I need to replace the auxillary battery, spark plugs, valve covers, and serpantine belt. Which all sounds good since I was expecting the problem to be with the traction battery. I'm still worried about the P3006 code since I thought it was specifically in reference to the cells in the traction battery. Is it likely that I'll have all this other stuff done and still need a new traction battery?
     
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    A weak 12 VDC battery can cause a host of random and unrelated problems. The 12 V battery provides power for the electronic control units (ECU) and if the voltage sags too much, there is no telling how many strange but false codes will be thrown.

    As for the spark plugs (OK), valve cover gasket (HUH?) and serpantine belt (OK.) It they'll report an oil leak around the valve cover, I'd say OK but this is the only one that sounds a little ... questionable.

    GOOD LUCK!
    Bob Wilson
     
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  11. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Thanks Bob, you were initially right about checking the aux battery! Fingers crossed that it'll be back in commission on Friday when I pick it up! Thanks again, I really appreciate all the input from everyone.
     
  12. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    So, after picking up the car with the new aux battery, spark plugs, serpantine belt, clean throttle plate, the warning lights came back on after two short trips. The dealer told me to bring it back in and if it was the same problem (same trouble codes), they would fix it free of charge (hard to believe). The codes that came up were P3000, P3006, and C1522. So, two are the same as before with this new C1522 code, which seems to be "motor circuit malfunction." Any ideas? They think there's an issue with the traction battery (which seems like what they should have been concerned with initially), but at this point I am convinced that they have no idea what they're doing. And I'm annoyed that I've already paid for work that may or may not have needed to be done. Because I'm in kind of a small town, I don't really have much of an option of taking it somewhere else, but I am seriously considering trying to drive it 100 miles to Portland where I might be able to get some decent service.
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    DTC C1522 points to an electric power steering motor malfunction. Have you noticed any problems with the steering system - such as a jerky steering wheel? If not, maybe you can ignore that one for now.

    Yes, DTC P3000 and P3006 mean that the traction battery is bad. Is your car still covered by the hybrid system warranty: 8 years/100K miles?

    At least the engine no-start issue seems to have been resolved thanks to the new spark plugs and throttle plate cleaning.
     
  14. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    I guess that is true, the P3191 and P3101 are no longer coming up.

    I haven't noticed any problems at all with the steering system, so maybe I will ignore that code. Thanks.

    Unfortunately the car is no longer under warranty (it's got maybe 140,000 miles), which is part of the reason I'd like to be able to take it to a competent independent mechanic in Portland. I'm hoping to try one of the batteries that uses the Gen2 cell technology, but fits into the Gen1. Probably not a good idea to try driving it 100 miles with a questionable traction battery, is it?
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Do you currently notice any driveability symptoms? When I had DTC P3006 on my 2001, the engine ran whenever the accelerator pedal was depressed, and it had very little power upon accelerating from a stop (since MG2 could not help, given a weak battery.) There was no way that car could travel safely more than the ~5 miles required to get to the dealer (where the traction battery was replaced under warranty at 61K miles.)

    If you do notice symptoms, then I would suggest not trying to drive the car 100 miles. If you don't notice symptoms then you could try driving the car as long as you have good cell phone coverage on the route and have tow truck phone numbers programmed in...

    I'm not aware of a Classic battery that you can purchase using 2G technology, other than a DIY project where you buy two 2G salvage batteries and pick 38 modules (out of the 56 coming out of the two battery assemblies) to install in the Classic battery case.
     
  16. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    See if you can get a listing of the voltage of all 19 module pairs. We are looking for about 14.4 V or better with no more than 1.2 V difference.

    My memory is a little foggy today, is the P3006 the battery leakage code? No, it is P3009 that is battery leakage.

    Bob Wilson
     
  17. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    I guess what I was thinking was something like this: 01-03 Toyota Prius Upgraded HV Hybrid Battery Pack:eBay Motors (item 130350495996 end time Dec-17-09 06:37:43 PST)

    The main problem is finding someone in my area willing to install it.
     
  18. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    P3006 is battery levels unusually different. I'll ask about the voltage, I didn't realize the dealer would check all of them.
     
  19. hollyO

    hollyO New Member

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    Alright, one more update from the dealer. They say the ECU needs to be replaced along with the main battery. It seems to me that, unless C1522 indicates something problematic with the ECU, P3000 and P3006 only really call for the main battery replacement. Is there something I'm missing? Could there be any basis to having the ECU replaced?
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Usually when the dealer is replacing the traction battery under warranty (i.e. at Toyota's expense) they will replace only the traction battery modules which is shipped in a new metal shell. The electronics are moved from the old shell to the new.

    If you are on the hook to pay for the repair, then they will try to get you to pay for a new traction battery ECU. I would decline that part of the service for now. See what happens when a new battery is combined with the existing ECU, which is not cheap by the way.