installed back up camera and replacement rear view mirror monitor

For those wanting to install a backup camera with always on option I just found the perfect set up. I just bought a 2010 version III base. The only thing I don't like is not beinbg able to see out the back.

I ordered a Sharp CCD camera #PC800 for $79 from Kazen (Korean) on eBay that fits the original factory camera cover plate to the left of the hatch opener. They also have a button size for the license plate but this one is perfect for the Prius mount and is a silver color so it goes well with the silver accents in the back. This is a hard wired waterproof single Sharp chip CCD - not CMOS with great quality picture, very low lux and looks like the factory camera. It is angled slightly towards the middle so it fits the factory opening as if it were made for it.

I picked up the Audiovox LCDM-43 replacement rear view mirror/ monitor from Amazon.com for $204. It fits the original mirror mount easily with no adapter and looks better than the original. It has a 4.2 inch video image appearing in the left side of the slightly larger rearview mirror when shifted into reverse so no need for a monitor on the dash. It even has adjustable overlay parking assist lines and a speaker in case you use a microphone camera- which I didn't want. I didn't want a "hang on the old mirror" monitor and this one comes with two video inputs so you can use the Cam 2 option for any other video source such as a DVD player, Nav system with video output, another camera for front or side or use the second input for the "always on" mode like I did. It actually adjusts to fit a little higher so it doesn't block vision as bad as the original even though it is slightly bigger.

Autoanything.com supplied a Gentech wire cover for $10 that covers the wire from the mirror mount to the headliner for a factory look.

Thanks to a lot of previous posts on installation of cameras, this project was very easy to complete. Wires from monitor tuck into headliner to A-piller and down behind the left vent to fuse box. Installed a Radio Shack fuse tap in the fuse box to the 10A unused front seat heater fuse for the mirror's red wire and two ground wires (black and white) for the mirror and Cam 2 to a frame bolt behind the fuse box. The red wire contains a fuse holder. Take the fuse out until everything is completed and you don't have to disconnect the car battery or worry about shorting out the wiring.

The mirror comes with a green "reverse" wire for the back up lights and splits the video cable into two S videos for Cam 1 and Cam 2. It also comes with a Y S Video adapter to combine both video leads into one and has a long S Video extention going to the camera. I tapped the mirror's hot wire (after the fuse holder) and ran an extended hot wire along the drivers side to the back along with an extention to the green reverse wire. The video extention follows the same path along the door sill, past the back seat and under the trunk box. The reverse wire taps into the backup light red/ blue stripe for power. Every panel pulls loose or allows tucking wires easily. Everything comes off and snaps back into place with no damage.

After the interior lower hatch panel is removed the back panel holding the license plate lights and Toyota badge snaps off with the rmoval of four nuts. The camera plug comes off and the camera fits the opening with two small screws. Only drilling is two very small pilot holes through the plastic next to the camera opening. I used silicone as well to seal the camera and waterproof the back of the opening. The camera wires route across the back and up the side of the hatch to the rubber gromets at the top. The hardest part of the entire job is getting the video wire with pin jack through the small rubber gromet tube at the top of the hatch. A coat hanger and a lot of patience are required. Folding back the gromet tube ends to make it shorter helps. Once the wire is through that tube attach the extention and run the camera hot wire to the hot wire extention from the front monitor. The camera ground wire is connected to a frame ground inside the back A piller and the RCA video plug from the camera is connected to the S Video feed from the front via an included adapter. All excess wires tuck away easily and all panels snap back into place.

Put the fuse back in the holder up front and push the start button. When you put the car in reverse the video image from the camera automatically comes on. Put in drive and it goes off. If you push the Cam 1/2 button to Cam 2 the camera image comes on again and stays on until you turn it off in case you want to watch it while driving. It has a 170 degree horizontal wide field of view and 90 degree verticle so you can see the bumper. You can turn on a reverse image option on either camera view and the turn on the overlay back up lines and adjust their position with buttons on the mirror.

It is better than having the back up camera image on a Nav screen and total cost under $300. With the savings I bought a Garmin Nuvi 855 GPS from Amazon.com for $189 and attached it under the console using the power plug and a stick on disc. I can see it from the drivers seat but because the 855 has voice recognition, I don't have to touch it or look at it very much. You give it voice commands and it tells you what to do. The options to get all these features from the factory would have cost $7000 more and doesn't have voice control or an always on camera in the rearview mirror.

After reading all the reviews on this site for backup cameras and then searching for camera and monitor options and prices on the internet for weeks, I believe this is the most cost effective, professional looking, safest and easiest to use option for my needs. There are many other options available. Anyone who can install a stereo in a car can do this. I didn't add pictures because there are already so many helpful postings showing the paneling removal. It is easier than I thought it would be thanks to a lot of good people who shared their experiences here. This is my pay back to all of you and hope it will help others to choose their best option and gain the confidence to do it yourself.

 

Because there are so many images of installation detail already posted I did not shoot photos of the process. There are detailed images and specs available at the product sources listed. I have added a few shots of the finished project for those who asked.

After driving it yesterday in day and night conditions I can tell you that when bright sunshine hits the rearview mirror it can wash out the video. This is no different than any sunlight reflection in the mirror that makes it hard to see and hard to photograph with a flash. The camera itself seems not to be affected by the sun much since it is shielded somewhat under the trim work in back. The picture is excellent.

When driving forward with the camera on you can see everything from the bumper back quite a long way as if you were looking out from just below the rear window without the wing obstruction in back. When in reverse the parking line overlay really helps a lot. You can see every object to within inches of the bumper. Trusting the image is the hardest part.

At night while driving forward with the camera on, the low light needs of the camera make it easy to see traffic lines and cars approaching along the passenger side blind spot. Because of the low lux camera, headlights tend to flare in the video image. However, surprisingly enough, the traffic and headlights can actually still be seen in the mirror right through the video image which is pretty cool and helps with seeing oncoming traffic on the driver's side.

Backing up at night is extremely well lit from the back up lights and the overlay lines are still quite visable. All in all, it is a great improvement in visability and safety for any Prius.

The GPS with voice recognition was great to use without having to push buttons or even look at it but the volume was pretty low. When I got home I decided to attach it to the stereo through the AUX input in the console. Only 4 screws under the black cloth liner hold the console down. After removal just pull up the entire box and pull back. It unsnaps just like everything else. I drilled a 3/4 inch hole through the front of the consile box and through from the back of the front tray and ran both a stereo headphone plug wire and the power wire to the GPS. Now both wires to the GPS run under the front tray cloth to the console box and plug into the power and AUX jack in the box. Now the GPS can be heard loudly over the car stereo.