Just to see if I understand, you're saying that the "nightmare" part of it comes mostly from the 8-channel amp? More to the point, if a person were to replace both the head unit and the amp (mounting the new amp where the existing one is), it should be fairly easy, right?
Replacing would be just like any other stereo install. Run the speaker wires, power cables, RCA's, take the head unit out, put the new one in as well as speakers. Fairly simple if you have an understanding of what needs to be done and fairly mechanically inclined. But yes, the factory amp is all of the problem. If the NAV/Bluetooth had it's own separate feed not going to the JBL amp it would be a breeze to swap it out. Unfortunately that's not the case. My JL Audio amp fits perfectly right on top of the factory amp so yes, depending on what you go with, it could very easily fit under the seat in the stock location. Hope this helps and believe me, if I didn't have the technology package which needs the factory piece that stuff would be gone faster than you could believe.
Thanks for the info, Shawn. One last thing, if you don't mind. I'm under the impression that in the 8-speaker JBL system, all the factory speaker wires are run to the amp under the seat, and not to the head unit. Is that right?
You are correct. As for which channels are which colors and which is positive and negative I am not sure. Wasn't at the stereo shop that day they tapped into the factory amp. It's such a shame that the NAV/Bluetooth don't come straight from the deck. If they did life would be grand. Now again, my setup is definitely on the high end side for as close to audiophile as I can get. Venom700 just did a speaker swap, added tweeters and a bazooka tube and seems real happy with it. It just all really comes down to what you like and if it sounds good enough to you. Feel free to ask away. i have no problems as long as I have time to answer.
Shawnb2, Which Series are you running from Hert for your 3-way setup? I would love to get a listen to how they are. I have heard nothing but great things about them. -Chan
The 3-way setup is basically the HSK 163. Will have to ask if my 3" Dome Midrange is a newer version or older version from what they are showing on their site. It looks a little different. We upgraded to the Space 1 Tweeter. When I was getting a true full range signal when it was hooked up bypassing the JBL amp, I have never heard anything so clear. It is unbelievable. Right now going back through the factory amp, it sounds good but nowhere near what it did and for that short little bit I heard it for everything it was worth makes it sound just mediocre now. Once it's done completely, we'll have to meet up and I'll let you take a listen. It will blow you away. Especially for what is running it all. The 10" sub just rocks!! It's the High Energy HX 250.
Wow, Now I am excited. Cannot wait to get a listen to your system and that new JL HD amp you have. Did you put the mids in the a pillar or in the door. I will be installing my sound deadening and proofing this weekend on the doors Trunk and Wheel wells. Maybe even the entire floor if my back does not give out. I hope when we have a meet my system is completely finished. -Chan
The mids and tweeters are in custom pods in the A-pillar. Here's pics of the pillars and the sub enclosure.
I saw those pics before, but man does that sub install look nice...I might have to come out to Camarillo and have your installer do that for me...is that a 12"? Where did you mount the amps?
No it's a 10" sub. The fiberglass enclosure was $650 by itself but it turned out beautifully. The sub was separate of course. The amp is the new 5 channel amp from JL Audio and it packs a heck of a punch for its size. It's under the passenger seat mounted ove the factory amp. They did an awesome job.
And to the subject at hand - here are some pics of the tweeter removal process. Here's a nice link which shows the A plastic and dash removal also http://priusfan.info/doc_prius/P3_dashboard_removal.pdf (thanks Frenchie). Pull the trim around the door back on the A, then pull it out - it pops out fairly easily - there will be a tab that stops it pulling further. I used a needle nose to twist the plastic 90 degrees - this allows that tab to come out. Then just pull out the A. The speaker cover is just a brute force tug from the side where you can grab it. From the pics, you could *easily* put a 3.5 - or even 4" 2-way in there - plenty of depth and room. Now the problem - as you can see, the plastic is not a 'mesh'. The opening for sound is 2.4". I'm going with a 2-way 3.5" in its place. Tweeters will only cover 2.5Khz+, and i'm looking for a little lower. Not really sure how I'll match it to the 6x9 (maybe a passive crossover at 500hz....). Going the less expensive route, I'll just try and match the sensitivities, and we'll see where that takes us. Probably $50 for the 3.5, and $80 for the 6x9. Not going the true audiophile route - just want decent sound ... Seems like a very easy and cheap upgrade...
I get a lot LESS vibration after having replaced the front door speakers with 6.5's. I think the factory amp has a hard time pushing 6x9's as is. That might be a good option for you too.
Yah - we'll see how my new head unit nav thing works with the stock speakers - I'm guessing I will need an external amp at some point.......
Thanks for that...I think putting a small coax in there is probably a good idea. Are you going to use a coax in the door, or just a woofer only 6x9? I'd opt for the latter to avoid phase issues in the high end. You'll get a better sound stage that way too.
My theory is Toyota must have done some research to determine their squaker is better than just a tweeter up front. which makes sense - I'd rather have voice coming from my ear level than down low (directional). I think a good basic 6x9 (2way or even 3way) with similar sensitivity, combined with a passive crossover (effectively making it a 2 way) is the solution (and very cheap) - In theory, the sound can be more dialed in with the crossovers. I figure I may need to amp up at some point, and a 4 channel amp beats a 6 channel amp for both cost and availability...
Rrolff, Wow, I see the side curtain airbag there in the a-pillar. Just a note to anyone attempting to remove the a-pillar plastic cover, disconnect the negative terminal in the 12V battery before doing so will be a good idea. -Chan
If you don't have a airbag sensor light go off or a accidental airbag deployment, consider yourself luck. Anytime I take apart anything in the console or near airbags compartments I pull the ground wire to the batttery. I have seen bad things happen to even the most seasoned installers.
Interesting thread. I am probably not willing to do anything about the "squawker" because I'd be afraid of rattles over the long haul. Can anyone tell me whether just replacing the front and rear door speakers with something of better quality would make much difference? If so, is it worth spending real money on speakers (MB Quart, Polk, etc.) or would I max out any benefit using just an average speaker (Sony, Pioneer, etc.). Thanks in advance.