Hv Battery

The welder was a good thought, but I was first concerned that its output voltage was quite a bit higher than the pack, and also concerned about the charge current. Otherwise, it would be a good step.

However, once the ICE was started, there should be a charge flow showing on the MFD, especially in park. It should definitly be evident with a higher voltage read across the battery pack once the 'boost' voltage was removed.

Besides codes, the scanner can also display active statistics, such as battery voltage, current, MG1,2 voltage, current, speed, 12v supply voltage, etc.

The fact that the 12V system was not showing a charge voltage of 14 volts is not a good sign, but the HV ECU may have turned it off due to an error condition. It could also be that the fusable link blew from the DC/DC converter output, though that is not likely.

 

jay as a thought 220 into a full wave bridge rectifier and connected to the battery would problaby put a half charge into it? As 206 is nominal probably full charged is about 235-240 so 220 would probably bring it to about 50%. Unfortunatly no current control so would be limited by the breaker on the supply side.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Frank Hudon\";p=\"92822)</div>

Frank:

Yes, that sounds reasonable. Actually, with suitable filtering the capacitors should be able to maintain approx 75% before saturation, so over 200 VDC.

You could use the plug off an electric kitchen stove or electric clothes dryer: the breaker is at least 30 amp, usually 40 amp. I made a "dongle" for my welder so I could plug it into the stove outlet or dryer outlet to avoid those long extension cords.

I would really worry though about regulating the charge rate. Too much charge rate can either destroy the rectifier and/or cause a cell to explode. Building a regulator isn't that hard.

First of all, a neat blast from the past: missileer technician course on theory and maintenance of vacuum tube rectifiers!

http://www.oldradioz.com/electronic_course/ch3.htm

This one is a tad more modern:

http://www.sfe-dcs.com/Theory/PowerSupplies.html

And there are many many more examples one can Google.

As a kid I used to play around with simple electronics, the "good 'ole days." A basic zener diode can provide regulation, or you can get extravagent with thyristors and other control circuits.

A Google is a great place to start with getting suitable circuits and component lists. A local library, especially the Engineering library at a college, is even better.

You should be able to build a suitable charging station for under $150.

Jay

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Supertim\";p=\"92872)</div>

Remember that although the under-dash connector looks like OBD2, the car uses a CANbus system. The scanner will have to translate CANbus.

 

jayman,
Youre referring to using a scanning tool connected to the car. Supertim wants to scan the codes info he has from the dealer into a computer so he can post the data. Two different processes.
JT

 

A bad inverter will most assuredly kick up the red triangle. Should get an icon on the MFD as well.

When you replace the inverter, be sure to get all air bubbles out of the cooling system, or you could damage the 'new' inverter.

 

one other thing with the THHT you should be able to clear all the codes and then try a restart to see how many reset. It's possible that they set during the repair on the car and won't clear till reset with the THHT. If some of the HV codes are set the car might not start and run till they get cleared.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Frank Hudon\";p=\"93210)</div>

Right! I thought of that, and should have posted, but it didn't look like he would have access to a THHT often enough. But I certainly agree on this strategy.

Sometimes I get calls about event error clients find on their server logs. I have them reboot and check the logs for errors that occur during and after reboot.

 

Throttle position sensor:
Pin 1: red (vc)
Pin 2: pink (VTA1)
Pin 3: Light Blue (VTA2)
Pin 4: Brown (E2)

Throttle motor:
Pin 1: Pink (M-)
Pin 2: Light Blue (M+)

There are 3 solonoids (System Main Relays) at the battery. One controls negative terminal, one controls full positive terminal, and one provides postive through a load resistor.
During system startup, the battery is connected through the resistor to prevent a surge of current. Once current is flowing, the other positive relay is connected to provide full current, and the resistor relay is opened.
You probably are not getting a charge because the system is detecting a problem with ICE and doesn't want to apply an inappropriate load.

The DTCs probably would have told you there was a problem with the throttle.

 

Yaaay success at last. The 12 volt battery is quite small and won't allow you to sit with the car in acc. positon and play CD's for very long. It's the one thing I don't like about the Prius. Other than that one sweet car!

 

on the hi-way most of the power comes from the ICE driving MG1 which powers MG2 to drive the car. Around town much of the motive force is provided by MG2 and the HV battery. BSOC is nomally in the half to three quarters range and most times blue. If you can find a long hill to drive down it's possible to get it "full" and green.