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Did My First Oil Change...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Mystery Squid, Jul 25, 2005.

  1. Mystery Squid

    Mystery Squid Junior Member

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    First of all, wow, what a piece of cake. You really don't even need to jack it up. However, I did, simply because I wanted to take a look underneath, inspect the tie rod end seals, ball joint seals, CV shaft boot, that sort of thing.

    Anyway, I have to say, I won't wait for 5K miles to change the oil. I simply did not like the color (changed after 4k miles). Even though it was probably within tolerance, the color of the oil on the dipstick was golden with a fair shade of brown, I intend on keeping this car for a long time, so the extra bit of $ to change oil more frequently is worth it to me. FWIW, I have several other vehicles where I've changed the oil consistently every 3K miles or less. One of them hit the 145K mark, and still runs like the day I bought it, same for the other one, though slightly less mileage, although it's a far higher revving engine...

    Ok, so some tips:

    If you do jack up the passenger side, remember to lower it while the oil is draining. While it's jacked up, some oil will pool opposite the drain plug simply because of the angle.

    Even though you don't need to jack it up, after the oil completely drains from the oil pan, jack it up for better access to the oil filter. Upon removal, I noticed the surface which the rubber filter ring makes contact with, is of significantly greater diameter than the filter. Thus, crud builds up around the edge of the surface not mated against the oil filter. It's probably not a big deal if you don't clean it for two or three oil changes, but I wouldn't let it go too far as ultimately, it may corrode or particles of this "crud" could even "break" off into your filter. I thought this was fairly unique, for none of the vehicles I've ever owned (and that's a fairly large number), actually exhibited this configuration. Typically, the mating surface is of the precise diameter of the oil filter in order to avoid/lessen this very type of build up.

    Finally, the owner's manual says 3.7 quarts (when using a new oil filter) for maximum capacity. They're right, but you'll notice after only three quarts, the oil level will be pretty close to the top notch on the dip-stick, maybe 1/4 inch from it. Many might be tempted to say, "It's full", but it really isn't. Drive it around a bit, stop, then let it settle for a few minutes (15-35 minutes), and it will lower a bit. Enough such that when you add the remaining .7 quart, it will go just about up to the top notch.

    So, that's about it, real easy to do. I sort of snickered when I saw how "cute" the little drain pan was, as I'm used to vehicles with huge drain pans, some even having two drain plugs...lol

    Oh yeah, I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5/30 and a K&N oil filter. $38 buck in all...
     
  2. kirbinster

    kirbinster Member

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    There is no basis to change oil at 3,000 miles. You are wasting money in so doing, just like people waste money fueling with Premium fuel when their cars call for 87 octane.

    Toyota is ultra conservative that they even want you to change at 5,000 as a good synthetic motor oil will easily perform for over 20,000 miles.
     
  3. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    While out at the hobby farm this weekend I did my first oil change in my 2004 Prius. The previous two oil changes were at the dealer, and with over 16,000km/10,000mi I figured a switch to Mobil 1 would be ok.

    I had a small metal drain pan that I trimmed with some shears to fit nicely under the car. I used the welder to tack corrogated sheeting on top so if I drop a drain plug it won't splash in.

    I've learned the hard way what a nightmare THAT is!

    The drain is very easy to get to and I had no trouble getting it off. I anticipated trouble with the oil filter but also had no trouble getting it off. I have a neat little filter wrench I was able to get from above to loosen the filter, then simply let the oil filter drop onto the drain pan screen.

    Not one drop on the garage floor.

    I replaced the drain plug gasket and filled the new Toyota filter with Mobil 1 0W-30. I only put in 3 U.S. quarts of Mobil 1 0W-30 and this puts the oil level slightly higher than halfway between the dots. I see no need to monkey with fractions of a litre or quart.

    Here is a hint if some of those who want to change their own oil are worried about waiting a long time for the ICE to restart after they power up, to check for oil leaks: when you power on, once it goes to Ready, floor the gas pedal.

    The ICE will instantly start. Release the gas pedal and the ICE will run at its usual speed, then shut down as normal. Go check for leaks while it's running.
     
  4. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kirbinster\";p=\"110031)</div>
    I agree. If you're running a synthetic, during warranty go to the maximum 6 months/5,000 miles. Once off warranty you should be able to double the interval.

    I purchased new a 1984 Ford F-150 with 302 V8. After a 10,000km break-in, I ran nothing but Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 (A heavy duty diesel motor oil) for most of its life, switching to Mobil 1 15W-50 in Utah and Nevada.

    I used to only change the oil filter every 6 months, the oil every year or two regardless of mileage. The motor now has 530,000km on it and the lowest compression is 130.

    It doesn't see much highway miles anymore due to the poor fuel economy, but the last major road trip I went on was in 1997, when it had 510,000km on it. I drove from North West Ontario to Mesquite, NV, in August. Put on 15,000km and the oil level was down maybe 2mm.

    So if a crude old clunk like that will live a long life with oil changes every 1-2 years, the Prius should last forever with yearly oil changes.
     
  5. SDiego

    SDiego New Member

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    Well at 3,950 miles, and checking the oil, it looked really yellow in color and smelled strange. I thought, time for a change. I been trying to figure out if I should use synthetic or mineral. Some say wait and some say it's ok to switch to synthetic. I decided to go in the middle and use Mobil synthetic blend. I used a Purolator filter. I let it drip and run for about 15 minutes while I checked other stuff, and did the refil. I kept checking and filling, and adding, and before I knew it. I had used all 4 bottles. It was just maybe 3/16 of a inch above the mark. I started it up again, and shut it down. I then right away checked the oil and it was right on the money. If I wait say 15 minutes it goes up so very slightly.
    Good enough I would say.
     
  6. SDiego

    SDiego New Member

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    Well I just checked my oil again, tonight after letting it sit for a few hours. I noticed its maybe the thickness of a pencil over filled. But still, if I start the car and then shut it down, and check it right away, Its right on.
    I wonder If I should worrry about it or not? I figure when the engine is running the level of course will be under the full mark. I did buy the oil change kit, in which you just undo the cap by hand and thread on the short hose and can be easily drained. Just wondering If I should just let out a tad or forget about it, since most dealers seam to anyways.
     
  7. Robert Taylor

    Robert Taylor New Member

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    I have had the Walmart supercenter change the oil for me. They put in the Mobil 1 synthetic and a top grade Fram filter for me. I tell them to put in only 3.5 quarts, and I buy four quarts for one change and three the next.

    It always ends up being "on the money" on the dipstick with 3.5 quarts, so I'll stick with doing just that.

    the problem of having techs not being able to drive the car still exists. I have to train each one.
     
  8. dreichla

    dreichla New Member

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    I changed my oil for the first time last weekend at 5,000 miles using a fluid extractor. What a piece of cake. I took off the drain plug just to see how much was left after the extraction, and not a drop of oil came out.

    Of course, when I took the filter off, that was a different story! But not a drop on the ground.

    Just prior to putting on the filter, I filled it with new oil followed by the balance of the oil in the regular fill location (3.3 quarts total.)
     
  9. Mystery Squid

    Mystery Squid Junior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dreichla\";p=\"110313)</div>
    Hey, I gotta admit, that's a cool idea! Not a lot of cars I know of have that configuration...
     
  10. Mystery Squid

    Mystery Squid Junior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SDiego\";p=\"110284)</div>
    I wouldn't worry about it.
     
  11. etyler88

    etyler88 etyler88

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    How do I turn off the MAINT REQ trouble light that comes on at 5000 miles telling you to change your oil?
     
  12. finman

    finman Senior Member

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    Make sure your odometer is showing total miles (not the trip a or trip b display).

    Power off the car.

    While holding the odo button (next to the hazard button, center dash), power on the vehicle. The odo display will wig out, that's normal, showing some dashes and then zeroes, etc. Eventually it will return to the total miles display and the maint. light will go out.

    You're set for another 5K!
     
  13. DanP

    DanP Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SDiego\";p=\"110284)</div>
    In my opinion, you figured right. The dipstick is marked to read accurately after the engine has been off for a few minutes, and Toyota recommends checking the oil at that time--not, say, first thing in the morning, when the oil level on the dipstick will be misleadingly high.
     
  14. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    Golden with a hint of brown? Sounds to me like the oil is still good.
     
  15. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DanMan32\";p=\"110412)</div>
    Dan:

    I agree. If it was jet black and gritty, that would be a different story.

    When I changed the oil this weekend, I waited the full 8,000km and the oil was sort of darker brown, still clear. This motor is easy on oil.

    There is no way I'll change the oil any sooner than 6 months/8,000km while on warranty. If I still have the car off warranty, I'll feel confident doubling the interval.

    Jay
     
  16. Mystery Squid

    Mystery Squid Junior Member

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    All things being equal, there are no negatives to what some might consider, "excessive", or "premature", oil changes.

    :mrgreen:

    :guns:
     
  17. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Sure, I'd agree with that. Depending on how long or if your car needs a break-in, frequent oil changes won't hurt anything.

    I just think you'll hit diminishing returns.

    How often should you change the oil to make the motor last? Every 3,000 miles? 2,000 miles? 200 miles? There is no easy answer.

    OTOH I think for most cars anything beyond 10,000 miles you had better consider bypass filters and used oil analysis, unless the car was designed for "on condition" oil changes like some BMW and Mercedes cars.

    Let's not forget that those frequent oil changes also cause a lot of environmental problems too. At one time they used to spray used oil on gravel roads to keep the dust down. And at one time they used to toss used oil filters into general trash bins, where they leached oil at the dump.

    If you want lowest cost and reasonable engine life, and you changed the oil frequently enough, any old bargain basement oil would work. If you wanted to balance cost, convenience, engine life, and extended intervals, you almost always need a synthetic.

    Like my old 1984 Ford F-150, I ran Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 after a careful 10,000km break-in. I'd change the filter every 6 months or 6,000 miles, the oil every year or two regardless of miles.

    That 302 now has over 500,000km or 300,000 miles and no oil consumption issues yet. Lowest compression last year was 130, highest 160. Squirting in oil, add 20 lbs.

    I first started using synthetics almost 25 years ago due to their proven cold temperature performance, as a regular 5W-30 is useless below -22 F. They also handle extreme heat, high soot (Diesel motor), and moisture (Frequent short trips) much better than a conventional oil.

    If you're leasing or if you know you'll trade every 3-4 years, don't even bother opening the hood or worrying about synthetic oils.
     
  18. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    As far as the fuel economy "benefits" of using synthetic oils, I'm currently running Mobil 1 0W-30. This is considered a "thin" 30 weight at operating temperature.

    So far the fuel economy seems about the same compared to the Toyota 5W-30 it had been using. I'll continue to track it though.