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01 Prius P3125 Bad Inverter and mystery codes.

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by colonel570, May 27, 2010.

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  1. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles.
    It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter.
    I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles.
    As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted! :)

    Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191.

    I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.

    When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.

    This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.

    What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?

    Any help would be great!
     
    #1 colonel570, May 27, 2010
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    DTC P3001 means a problem with the traction battery ECU.

    DTC P3030 means that there is a problem with a sense wire that helps the battery ECU measure module pair voltages.

    DTC P3115 means there is a problem with the traction battery current sensor.

    DTC P3191 is the engine no-start code.

    Since you have three DTC related to the traction battery, that could mean that the traction battery ECU is bad - if you don't see any physical problems with the sense wiring or the current sensor.

    The engine no-start code can sometimes be resolved if you clean the throttle body interior and throttle plate, replace the iridium spark plugs, and make sure the engine oil is not overfilled and is 5W-30 viscosity. If all of that is good and the car still logs P3191, you can check the engine ECU part number (that ECU is behind the glove box area) and replace if the number is below 89661-47054.
     
    #2 Patrick Wong, May 27, 2010
  3. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    The only code I currently have is P3001.

    The car runs and drives fine but the engine never shuts off.

    Should I replace the Traction Battery ECU? (how much is a fair price for one at a junk yard?)
     
    #3 colonel570, May 27, 2010
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It seems reasonable to replace the traction battery ECU, if that is the only code that persists. As of this writing I see three battery ECUs on eBay, at prices ranging from $25 to $157. The bad news is that those ECUs are for 2G Prius, I don't see any for Classic Prius.
     
    #4 Patrick Wong, May 27, 2010
  5. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    Disconnect the 12V battery for at least two minutes, then reconnect, start vehicle, and let it run.

    Does P3001 come back?

    How many miles ago did the vehicle have the P3030 code?
     
    #5 jk450, May 27, 2010
  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Perhaps you could call David Taylor at Re-InVolt, 919-774-4037, over in Sanford, NC?

    Dave is very clueful about NHW11 Prius and has a nice business rebuilding NHW11 traction batteries. Just over an hour away, I would trust his judgement and I'm sure he has what it takes to diagnose the last code.

    Just a thought,
    Bob Wilson
     
    #6 bwilson4web, May 27, 2010
  7. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    The P3030 went away over night after I reset it.

    The P3001 Comes back on every time.
     
    #7 colonel570, May 31, 2010
  8. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    Drive the vehicle and see if P3030 comes back. It may take a few days.
     
    #8 jk450, Jun 1, 2010
  9. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    Re: 01 Prius P3125 Bad Inverter and HV ECU mystery codes.

    Now I have a new/used Inverter and a new/used battery ECU, and I still have p3001 and P3125 and now the engine stalls after about 15 seconds but right before it stalls I hear a click from the HV battery. After the click the engine sounds bad like its being choked then it rattles to a stop. It will restart after a few seconds. Also the touch screen goes crazy, it turns white and gets all wobbley and weird distortions on it and sometimes goes out.

    Sometimes the 12v battery charge light comes on too but it usually goes off.

    I have also replace the inverter cooling pump with one im sure works now.

    I drove the car a few miles before I replace the inverter coolant pump.

    Is it possible that I messed up the Inverter in the few miles I drove it before I replaced the Inverter coolant pump and now need another Inverter?
     
    #9 colonel570, Jun 4, 2010
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Re: 01 Prius P3125 Bad Inverter and HV ECU mystery codes.

    Sure sounds like a 12 V battery system problem. When it runs(?) does it run? What does your 12 V battery voltage read? It should be in the 13.9 V region.

    We don't have enough information to really tell. I agree with Patrick that only time will tell.

    I am a little confused by your posting, the car is sometimes running or just starts and dies right away?

    Thanks,
    Bob Wilson
     
    #10 bwilson4web, Jun 4, 2010
  11. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    It runs then after about 15 seconds it dies.

    I put my battery charger on the 12v battery for an hour or so and it started with no problem. Then I took the charger off after it started and it seemed to run good for a min or so. As soon as I put my foot on the brake it stalled and started acting weird again and a loud click from the traction battery.

    11.2v with the car off, before i started it

    9.7 and dropping with the car running then it stalled
     
    #11 colonel570, Jun 4, 2010
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    OWCH! The inverter generates the 12 V. charging voltage. You may want to start from the output pin but I don't have it handy.

    Send a PM to Orange4Boy and he may have exactly the plug and pin that needs to be tested. He has been doing a 12 V 'plug-in' using a modified lead-acid battery system to handle the 12 V load.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #12 bwilson4web, Jun 4, 2010
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  13. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Sounds to me like your DC-DC converter is not operating or it's fuse blown. It's on the bottom of the big inverter.

    Check all the plugs on the inverter to make sure you put them all back properly. The 12V+ is the single big orange plug at the back of the inverter below the three MG2 leads. It's the lowest one. Check all your fuses as well.

    You should be getting 13.5 - 14.5V at the battery when in "READY"

    I hope your wrecker has a return policy.
     
    #13 orange4boy, Jun 4, 2010
  14. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    This is the logical starting point, with the exception that the plug is gray, not orange. It has one terminal, and is fairly low and difficult to see. There is a smaller gray terminal next to it, with multiple terminals; this is not the plug that orange4boy is referring to.
     
    #14 jk450, Jun 4, 2010
  15. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    It seems that the small 12v battery is losing its charge when the car is running. I put the multimeter on it while the car is running and it loses charge very slowly. What could cause this?

    I am guessing the inverter I got from the salvage yard is bad. As I understand the inverter controls the 12v system as well as the HV system.
     
    #15 colonel570, Jun 4, 2010
  16. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    I checked the grey plugs and they are hooked up correctly. (I didnt forget them actually!:)

    Where are the fuses that I need to check, I checked the ones in the car and the ones on the drivers side in the square black box. Any more that I should check? Are there any relays that I need to check and how do I test them. I have a good multimeter.

    I really appreciate all your help, you guys!!!
     
    #16 colonel570, Jun 4, 2010
  17. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Grey! Right. oops.
     
    #17 orange4boy, Jun 4, 2010
  18. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    White screens and the like are definitely symptoms, along with your
    voltage measurements, that the charging system isn't working. The
    grey connector in question has one *fat* wire going through it,
    that hooks into the main 12V bus.
    .
    "Runs for 15 seconds" is more likely an *attempt* to start, but
    since the traction battery and motors can easily spin the ICE
    at a brisk 1000 RPM in the process, it *sounds* like it's running.
    Try placing the car in Neutral shortly after the spinning starts,
    and then you'll quickly see if the engine is actually trying
    to run on its own or not.
    .
    If they sold you an inverter with a bum 12V DC/DC, you might have
    to take that up with the supplier...
    .
    _H*
     
    #18 hobbit, Jun 4, 2010
  19. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    Do you think I can fix the DC-DC converter part of the Inverter?

    Has anyone ever attempted this?

    orange4boy said there is a fuse on the bottom of the inverter. I checked the old inverter and I couldnt find anything that looks like a fuse or relay. Can you tell me more about where I might find that fuse for the DC?
     
    #19 colonel570, Jun 4, 2010
  20. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    I'm not sure how the bottom side of the first-gen inverter is
    laid out, but if you look at my second-gen teardown the fuse
    that feeds the DC/DC and air conditioning compressor driver is
    pretty obvious in 615dcdc.jpg; white thing just above the gang
    of three orange capacitors and below where the + side of the
    battery feed comes in. Soldered onto the board, though, and
    likely a fairly special type that prevents arcing when it goes.
    .
    _H*
     
    #20 hobbit, Jun 5, 2010
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