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Any ideas? P3009 and info code 526 overheating

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by maestra90, Jul 18, 2010.

  1. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank, so it must be working, right? The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it. What are the other reasons it could overheat?--I assume that is what is making the DTC's blow. I'm taking it tomorrow so that I can take the tech for a ride and make it do it again (hopefully). Any Ideas from the Experts?
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    A few questions:

    Odometer reading?
    Accident history?
    Do you know which coolant pump had been replaced: the electric inverter coolant pump, the mechanical engine coolant pump powered by the serpentine belt, or the electric engine coolant heat recovery canister pump?
    What do you need to do to make the inverter overheat?

    DTC P3009 means a high voltage ground fault. That associated with inverter overheating implies that the inverter needs to be replaced, but further investigation would be required to determine exactly where the ground fault is located - maybe your car has two separate problems.
     
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  3. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    Thanks
     
  4. Bob64

    Bob64 Sapphire of the Blue Sky

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    Boiling? Perhaps there is still air trapped in the system? The air hasn't been fully bled out...
     
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  5. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    How would I be able to diagnose that? Anything I can check for?
     
  6. Bob64

    Bob64 Sapphire of the Blue Sky

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    Does it "boil" when you do a cold-start of the car? Is the fluid level dropping slowly?
     
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  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Did you tell the service writer that the car has to be driven for an hour before the inverter will overheat? Does the car overheat only when driven on the freeway or will it also overheat when driven around town?

    Make the car READY and turn on the air conditioning. Set the thermostat temp low enough so that the AC compressor is running. Go to the front of the car and note the radiator fans running. Are they blowing air towards the front of the car, or sucking air from the front of the car? The latter is correct. If the former, this would explain overheating when the car is driven at speed.

    Make the car IG-ON (where the instrument panel warning lights are all on, and the car is not READY.) Open the hood and find the inverter coolant pump which is behind the driver's side headlamp assembly. Listen to the pump. It should sound like an aquarium pump and you should not hear bubbles.

    If you don't hear the pump run, or if there is air in the system, that is why the inverter is overheating. If you do hear the pump running properly, then maybe there is a clog in the inverter cooling channels.
     
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  8. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    When I cold-start the car, everything is OK and if I open the tank the anti-freeze is moving around. The fluid level has been constant since onset of problem.
     
  9. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    The fans seem to be sucking air into the engine. When I try to listen to the pump all I hear is a high pitched low volume whine, is that it? The other thing that I forgot to mention is that the outside temp guage is very off. I have seen it at 122, 116, etc. when it has only been in the 90's. Driving with Toyota today, hope it is hot enough for the car.
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Please check your radiator fans again. Your message above is evidence that the fans are blowing air at the radiator. The air from the engine compartment is heated, then blows past the outside air temp sensor which is located in front of the radiator. This causes the erroneous readings that you indicated above.

    Several other posters have reported an overheating problem similar to yours. Usually their vehicle has been in a front-end accident. The radiator fans are reversed during reassembly.

    Note that the fan blade count differs when looking at the two fans, 5 blades vs. 7. Also note that the fans are supposed to spin in opposite directions. So, if the blades are swapped then they will blow air in the incorrect direction.

    It sounds like the inverter coolant pump is working, based upon your description of the sound that it produces.
     
  11. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    How much air should be coming out? If feels very slight in--definitely not "wind" more of a slight movement toward the passenger compartment. I'll have them check it when I get there. I'll let you know what they come up with.
    Michele
     
  12. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    Should the fans be coming on with the ICE or be on the whole time even on battery? Why would they not be turning at all?
     
  13. Politburo

    Politburo Active Member

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    They only come on when needed, iirc based on coolant temperature.
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you turn on the AC and set the cabin temp low enough so that the AC compressor is running, then at least one of the two radiator fans should turn on. You might try carefully placing your hand in the space between the radiator fan and the engine, and see if you can feel air being blown at your hand or not.

    When the engine coolant temp rises high enough, then the other radiator fan should turn on.
     
  15. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    When I got to Toyota and pulled up to the bay the lights went on. The radiator fans were running and the same 2 codes were blown P3009 info code 526. The car was not overheating--what I thought was bubbling was only the coolant pump moving the antifreeze (Much faster than when it was cold) and when I got there both of the fans were running. Now they say they think it may be some electrically charged oil? that is in the condenser of the AC. They don't have some tool that the regional guy is bringing tomorrow so that they can test for it. They think maybe it got left out when they fixed it from the accident (20,000 miles ago). Sound feasible?
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, this makes sense. The Prius air conditioner compressor is powered by an electric motor that receives high voltage AC from the inverter. The compressor oil needs to be a special non-conductive type because the motor is in contact with the oil. If normal oil is used, that will cause a high voltage ground fault in the motor, and the compressor will need to be replaced, which is probably a $2K repair.

    I suppose one way to test this would be to leave the air conditioner off and drive around to see if DTC P3009 appears. If it doesn't appear after a reasonable time, then turn on the AC and see if that code is logged.

    Also, the "regional guy" should have a megger, which is an ohmmeter that uses high voltage. This can be used to identify the component causing the ground fault.
     
  17. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    He said that if it was this that it was only going to be about a $150 to fix. Why would the whole condenser need to be replaced if the AC blows cold and is working just because of this oil? Once it's filled, or replaced with the right stuff, what would be the difference? Would it continue to trip the codes or something?
     
  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, I hope that it only costs $150. Usually the AC compressor (not just the condenser) will need to be replaced if the wrong compressor oil is used.

    See Automotive Training and Resource Site
    and look for Hybrid18 Other Systems.pdf

    Also, the following text is in the Toyota repair manual regarding DTC P3009:

    "NOTICE:

    Electrical insulation performance may decrease significantly if even a small amount of oil other than ND-OIL 11 is used (or enters) in the refrigeration cycle, causing the DTC to be output.

    If other is accidentally used and a DTC is output, collect the oil in the refrigeration cycle into the compressor and replace it with ND-OIL 11 to increase the ND-OIL 11 ration amount.

    Replace the main components (evaporator, condenser, and compressor) if a large amount of oil other than ND-OIL 11 enters the system. Failing to do so may cause electrical insulation performance to remain low, causing the DTC to be output."
     
  19. maestra90

    maestra90 New Member

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    Thanks, Patrick,
    I'm still waiting for the call, but I hope the oil isn't the wrong kind and I have to change the whole thing. Would it do the same thing if they just hadn't refilled the oil after the accident and maybe it's just low? Still hoping its $150 and not $2k. Maybe it's the optimist in me.
    Michele
     
  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Michele,

    If the compressor oil was the correct type but low, then your car would not have logged DTC P3009 unless some other hybrid vehicle component (unrelated to the air conditioner) was responsible for the high voltage ground fault.

    I also hope that your bill is $150. However don't be too surprised if it grows to a four-digit amount. Good luck.

    Also, I suggest that you ask the service writer to ask the tech to check the radiator fans while the car is there. Let them know that you've noticed the ambient air temp gauge reading is much higher than normal, which causes you to be concerned that the radiator fans are blowing hot air from the engine compartment and radiator towards the air temp sensor mounted in front of the radiator, which is the wrong air flow direction.