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Will a P3030 trigger a P3000 code? (2001 Prius)

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by RyanA, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. RyanA

    RyanA New Member

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    I've been doing a bunch of research the past few days on the issue with my 2001 Prius and I was able to pull codes this evening (sorry, no subcodes). The codes are as follows:

    P3000, Battery Control System Malfunction
    P3030, Battery Voltage Detective Line Snapped

    My question is this: Will the P3030 cause a P3000 to pop up since it appears I have one of the 19 voltage detect lines corroded or broken? Once I fix this issue, is there a chance that the P3000 will disappear? One more tidbit: I was just getting the triangle and the Main Battery error on the MFD up until yesterday. Yesterday, the ! with the car came on (Hybrid system?) on the MFD. I did not check any codes until today. Car will currently not start at all. Aux battery voltage is confirmed to be 12.3 volts via the MFD in the diagnostic mode so it's good to go.

    Any pointers would be appreciated. Sorry, no one around has a scan tool that will also pull the subcodes to make life easier.

    Ryan
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Ryan,

    Yes. DTC P3000 is logged by the hybrid vehicle ECU, and means that the traction battery ECU is reporting a problem.

    Since DTC P3030 is logged by the traction battery ECU and implies a broken voltage sense line, there's a good chance that if you can fix this, that your car will be restored to normal operation. Please take photos of the bus bars and post, along with the broken sense wire if/when you determine which one failed.

    Good luck.
     
  3. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Patrick is right and I would only add a suggestion to pull the sense line plug and check for corrosion. There have been two reports of corrosion in the socket and plug. The good news is you can run a jumper around to solve a corroded connector. Just try to remove any latent electrolyte so the corrsion won't proceed.

    Bob Wilson
     
  4. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    No. P3000 is logged by the HV ECU after it receives fail-safe data from the battery ECU, as opposed to looking at codes in the battery ECU. Fail-safe modes do not always occur at the same time that codes are set. The root cause of both codes may be the same; it is difficult to say for sure without information codes and additional data.

    Yes, there is a chance of this. I recommend that you diagnose the P3030 first.
     
  5. RyanA

    RyanA New Member

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    Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm getting ready to start checking on the Prius battery right now. Depending on whether or not I take time out for lunch, it may be later this evening before I report back. I also have to take apart an extra Insight drivetrain I have while I'm at it.

    Camera will be going with me so I'll take pics of any issues I find.

    Ryan
     
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  6. RyanA

    RyanA New Member

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    OK, back home for the day. I got everything pulled apart this morning and I took some pics. Unless there is another spot I should be looking for the broken wire on the P3030 (check harness that is with buss bars and checked ECU plug) there is not a problem with the voltage detective wire. I thought I had remembered people saying there were 2 plugs that plugged together so maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

    I am actually thinking that someone ran the car out of gas and then ran the car until the traction battery totally died. All cells had pretty low voltage but they seem to be taking a charge and holding it once charged. I only charged up the 2 lowest voltage ones and 2 others. I'll recheck voltage on those tomorrow to see how they are.

    Here are pics of what I have:

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  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Did you use a digital ohmmeter to verify continuity of each sense wire (I believe there are 20 sense wires in total) between the metal terminal that connects to the battery module, and the wiring harness connector that plugs into the traction battery ECU? You'll have to look at the color coding of each sense wire and find the two ends, one at the bus bar and the other at the wiring harness connector.

    I suggest that you make a table that shows the color of each sense wire, and the resistance that you measured, and look for one reading that is larger than the others. (Also, connect the two ohmmeter test leads together to see what resistance is contributed by the test leads.)

    Do you see any corrosion within the wiring harness connector or the mating socket in the battery ECU? Any corrosion of the sense wires?

    The problem is likely to be subtle, so you'll need to keep looking until you find it. Good luck.
     
  8. RyanA

    RyanA New Member

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    No corrosion at the plug or its mating cavity. The bussbars did seem to have some on them so I'll be cleaning them all off. Anyone have any suggestions? I have seen some people using vinegar, is this a good idea? I will look closer at everything tomorrow after I get off work. If the battery would have fit in my Insight (with me loading it by myself) I would have brought it home to condition it and see what I really have.

    I will also ohm out each wire with my Fluke tomorrow; I'm guessing they will all check out OK.

    Ryan
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I think that vinegar is OK for cleaning the bus bar that doesn't have sense wires attached. I'd be concerned about using a chemical bath for the bus bar with sense wires as the chemical might wick up between the copper wire and the wire's insulation and remain in place over time.

    You might be right about measuring each wire becoming an exercise in futility - but if you can't find a problem with a sense wire then the only other possibility is that the traction battery ECU is bad. So it would be good for you to be 100% confident that the wiring is good, before you go to the effort of trying to find a replacement for the ECU.
     
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Toyota sells replacement buss bars and sense wiring harness. I understand they run a little over $100 but it would eliminate any questions of corrosion residue.

    Excellent photos although the prospect of working 'in the car.' Well I'm a little large.

    Bob Wilson
     
  11. Kaminsky

    Kaminsky New Member

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    Hello everyone,

    My name is Nick, from Seattle. I am a first time Prius owner. Bought my 2003 Prius about eleven months ago. I am having an electrical problem as a couple of day of now. Several things, like check engine sign, triangle with exclamation mark in it, a car symbol with exclamation mark. After taking it to the dealership, testing came back with P3000, P3030, C1202, C1213, C1215, C1241,C1242, C1259, C1551 - any idea what these might mean. They told me that has something to do with a HV battery and that in its turn causes all these other error signals. However when I look at the battery funtionality of the dash boards, everything appears good as before. The car drives fine, sometimes powering down. If I pull over and restart, it goes again. Please help if you can, any advice?
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    This is the exact same message cut-and-pasted over and over again. Regardless, do you have tools and feel comfortable working on cars?

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. colonel570

    colonel570 New Member

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    I just ran into the same problems with an 01. I replaced the inverter with a used one from the junk yard. It solved some of my error codes and messages (P3125 I think was the code) I also replaced the inverter cooling pump as this had never been done and it wasnt working. I suspect this is why the inverter quit working in the first place. I still had the pesky P3001 and P3030. The dealer replaced the battery and sensing wires along with the hybrid ecu and battery ecu. not the problem I still had the codes. After months of diagnosis and quite a bill from the dealer, they determined that the MG1 is partially bad causing the codes and reduced power on acceleration and the ICE to run all the time. I hope thats not your problem, but its something to think about. Check the Inverter cooling pump (you can see the coolant moving in the resivoir)and replace it ever 100k miles as prevenative maint. It could be why my transmission went out and my inverter. just FYI